• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Passive subwoofer vs. Active subwoofer

NHT passive subs with external crossovers and amps is what I have now though these days, most active subs use Class D amps that do not require cooling like Class A/B plate amps. I just got tired of replacing plate amps.
 
A Parts Express subwoofer kit powered by a used Crown XLS 1500 amp which has a builtin low pass filter would be an optimal route for a passive sub.
 
rajoo said:
A Parts Express subwoofer kit powered by a used Crown XLS 1500 amp which has a builtin low pass filter would be an optimal route for a passive sub.
Click to expand...
I purchased a used XLS 1500 a couple of years ago for about $300. There's one on ebay going for $250. Do you recall the stated budget?
 
I have three active subwoofers and havent lost a plate amp, the oldest one being 15+ years old.
 
E-Stat said:
I purchased a used XLS 1500 a couple of years ago for about $300. There's one on ebay going for $250. Do you recall the stated budget?
Click to expand...

Did you read where someone stated that the OP will need a larger budget? And I paid $125 for mine bought locally.
 
Poultrygeist said:
This is a Parts Express kit sub. The plans called for the plate amp to be mounted within the sub box. I elected to make a simple frame for the plate amp so it could be used externally and placed on the rack with other gear with connection to the sub via speaker wire. That way the sub doesn't have to be near a power outlet and if the plate amp died I'd only have to replace it. The other advantage is that it's easier to connect and power two 8 ohm subs from a single plate amp as the power output is almost doubled.

View attachment 2085769
Click to expand...
Very nice. That’s sort of what I did. A neighbor had a Dayton Audio SUB-1200 that he threw out because the cabinet was ruined when it got wet from a flood. The amplifier and 12” driver were fine. So I removed them and located the amp to my entertainment center where I feed the LFE signal to it from my receiver. Then I use a pair of 10” 8 ohm woofers in separate sealed cabinets(left and right) wired in parallel to the amp which puts out 120 watts rms into 4 ohms.
 
Unless your passive subwoofer requires a proprietary connecting cable to its' amplifier then it is a passive subwoofer.

What is this business about it not being 'truly passive' because it has an outboard amplifier that does not also power the main speakers? Does that mean that all my speakers are 'kinda active' because they require an amplifier?
 
My oldest sub is now 30yrs old, amp still going strong, but it's a class A/B amp with a huge cast aluminum heat sink. The driver has required the surround replaced, but according to Arnie he used foam because all their testing showed it's SQ was superior in it's design.

My two Dayton Audio Sub 1200's from Parts Express are still going strong after 8yrs, only time will tell how much longer.

All of my other subs were passive, purchased as such or custom built around the drivers used.
 
AudioGMan said:
I gave up on powered subs many years ago because it’s just a matter of time before the built in amp craps out. I’ve had Klipsch, Polk Audio, M&K, and Velodyne. All have suffered failed amplifiers. Now I only use passive subs(2) and an outboard amplifier. No more problems. What do you plan on powering a passive sub with? Is that included in your $100 budget?
Click to expand...

I plan on powering the passive sub with the receiver I use in my PC setup, a Kenwood KR-A5030. I could either hook it up to the B channel as a separate, or use the A channel and plug my speakers into the passive sub if the sub has that ability.
 
SweetRolls said:
I plan on powering the passive sub with the receiver I use in my PC setup, a Kenwood KR-A5030.
Click to expand...

The problem with passive subs set up this way is if not designed with your main speakers in mind how to balance the subs output with the speakers?

With an active sub, or passive connected to its own amp with gain controls the outputs can be balanced to work together.

Here's a picture of a system designed around a passive sub by the manufacturer.

Canton Plus S and "matching" Plus C passive sub
canton-plus-c-plus-s (1).jpg

If not designed to work together it's going to be a crapshoot whether they will or not.
 
Grenadeslio said:
The problem with passive subs set up this way is if not designed with your main speakers in mind how to balance the subs output with the speakers?

With an active sub, or passive connected to its own amp with gain controls the outputs can be balanced to work together.

Here's a picture of a system designed around a passive sub by the manufacturer.

Canton Plus S and "matching" Plus C passive sub
View attachment 2085995
Click to expand...

Ah, that is a good point. I have a pair of JVC full-range speakers coming in the mail that I plan to use in my PC setup. At this point, is it even possible for me to get a good subwoofer for under $100, or should I just save my money?
 
Grenadeslio said:
yes, but that same sub could have it's own amp while the mains are run full range off another amp. Passive only means it's not active, as in no ability to adjust it's output or low pass setting included with the sub.

I've had both variations, passive I built myself, and passive purchased as a package unit with built in low/high pass like the Canton Plus C.
Click to expand...

The Marcato ( under the table ) is an outdoor sub and I'm lucky to have one amp that I bring in and out.

P1010001.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom