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Phase Linear 400 and 700B

You need to do the current sharing test that is called out in the manual. The issue I have with using old outputs is you don't know what kind of thermal stress and load faults they've seen. When one output fails it is likely that the others that were in the same stack were pretty hot and may have also seen a high fault current. The weakest one failed but the others may have been close.

The burnt resistors on the output jacks are a sign of oscillations. The manual addresses this and offers some solutions.

The Dale 250 watt load resistors are expensive. I see Parts Express has some 100 and 200 watt reasonably priced. If your budget doesn't allow for the 200's the 100's will be OK, you would need to limit full power testing to a short time. the 700 would certainly tax 100W resistors.

To do full load testing, you need 8A fuses.

I recently rebuilt a 400 that had been beat up pretty bad while bouncing around in a PA rack. I had to build a new face plate and the meters were not usable. I'll post a pic when I can get to it.
 
Great advice ,Don. I will pursue some 200 watt dummy loads. Never really needed them before. But now have the 400,700B, a Citation 16A and a Dynaco ST150 needing attention and proper testing.
I went to buy a pair at Parts Express. They want $36.00 to ship to me or free if I am in the US. I could get hit for duty as well. So much for the land of the free.
I will pursue other avenues.
But may have to bite the bullet.
 
The service manual has agreat procedure for doing the current sharing test, and as Don has said its invaluable for turning up the the borderline outputs. I feel i was in remiss for not mentioning that but thought you had a manual and were following it.


Thanks, Lee
 
Time for the blue LED upgrade. I've done all my PL400's and they look like an old Marantz when fired up. The LED upgrade from White Oak Audio has a replacement PL18 board with all components along with it. They look great. 29.95 great price.
 
Time for the blue LED upgrade. I've done all my PL400's and they look like an old Marantz when fired up. The LED upgrade from White Oak Audio has a replacement PL18 board with all components along with it. They look great. 29.95 great price.

I've worked on a board off and on for about 5 years. couldn't find LEDs that were wide enough dispersion. It's hard to beat incandescent. Can you post a pic.

FWIW, I did driver board testing on the Dyna 4XX and 150 many moons ago. Let me know if you need help on the 150.
 
Don when I get back to the house I will. It uses 8 leds, there is still some pointed light but not near as much as you would think.
 
I went ahead and ordered the dummy loads. Once I get all my parts together I will test the 400 and then start on the 700. I sure love those meters.
Will likely need further hand holding . Still lots to learn.
 
The solution to repairing most P/L amps is careful reading of the service manual and the updates. Having read it hundreds of times, I still refer back to it.

Laatch55, Thanks for the pic. I may have to resurrect the project.
 
Well its been awhile. I tackled the 400 successfully and the fellow who has it loves it so much he wants my 700B when I get it up and running.
So now I have started on the big boy.
When I got this 700B it had the Zoebel network on the right speaker outputs toasted and one output on that side shorted.
So I replaced the two resistors(Zoebel network) . Replaced all the diodes with the exception of D 18.Didn't find any components that have failed. Recapped including the filter caps.Pulled and tested all the transistors and checked them with my new atlas DCA component analyzer. Replaced Q1,2,3 and 4 on both sides as I had the parts and the old trannys had corroded leads. Made sure of pin out and fixed at least one installation error.
Checked all resistors.Using MJ1196's for the outputs and MJ1124's for the drivers.
Using my dim bulb and bringing up one channel at a time by adding a bank of outputs with each success. The left side seems fine so far.
Now the crux. Just added one bank on the right, no short according to the dim bulb and the DC is around 30mv. However it sends a loud screech through my test speaker (ouch).
Any suggestions?
 
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For Q 1& 2 I used TIS 97's and Q3 & 4 I used 2N5401's.
I changed the blackened cap on the Zoebel.
I did measure the voltage on the PS filter caps and it was identical. But I can't remember the reading. Will have to set it up later and get back to you. I have had wine!
 
Q4 would do much better if it was an MPSA 93. It gets run pretty hard and the 5401 usually weren't up for it.
Did you match the TIS-97's?? To do a first order beta measurement check resiostance between the BE,BC junctions, the closer you get with the 2 measurements to its would be mate, the less offset you'll have. Historically if I match them to 0 or 1 ohm offset is less that 5MV.
 
Man I wish I could be your apprentise so I could learn to repair these. I have a lot of Phase Linear amps and I would love to rebuild them all with New caps and output Transistors. I could handle the output Transistors, but I worry about soldering all those caps and resistors without some solder getting over to the next curcuit. I guess my only option is to send it off, talked to d3imlay seems like a good option, I just hate taking chances shipping them along with the cost.

Can anyone here tell me, between the different versions, PL 400 Pl 400 with more fins, PL 400 II, what the differences were as far as inprovements that a Listener would notice.

Same with the PL 700's I currently have few to the series II, but I kind of like the 700b with the big meters is their a noticable or improvement as far as distortion or power between the two? I have some pretty large speakers with pretty tough loads, so I would like to know what the differences are, as I am always on the look out for new ones. All my speakers I pretty much bi amp. I have Infinity speakers, RS-1, RS-1a, QLS-1, QLS-2, and Phase Linear III's and am working on restoring a Phase Linear andomeda which I purchased for the bass commode as I have been running the PL III's with two bass commodes rather than just the single one.

I thank you for any info that you might be able to share.
 
Oh I almost forgot to ask, any suggestions on someone who likes to tackle the PL 4000 II preamp? I have one where sometimes one channel will drop out. If I tap on it sometimes it will come back on. If I remove the cover and lightly push down on the top board the channel starts playing again. Mostly once it starts playing it will stay playing unless I turn it off then when repowered, it drops out agian. I figure its a loose solder joint or maybe where the boards plug in, but I would like that fixed as right now I have a Mcintosh C28 in its place.
 
I matched them by similar hfe.You are suggesting your method is preferred?
Thought I should mention I ordered the new board from Joe. But I want to get this baby working perfect before I install the new board.
 
In no way is my method preferred, just a cheapo you can use with a DMM. Give that baby a listen without Joe's board, then with it. If you don't have REV C in the BOM for mouser Get 2 470UF at 50 volt KZ's for C6, and put back to back 1N4148's on the C6 leads on the back of the board, I'll post a pic.
 

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