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Phase Linear 400

This control board is bad. Now that I have it under a magnifier glass I'm finding more repaired tracers and heat stress. I think the white Oak drop in board is the best way to go.I've gone this far might as well do it right. So there is no problem with using Don's relay with the White Oak board ?
 
I can't speak as to whether Don's board is compatible with your control board, but I cannot imagine why it wouldn't be. Send him a PM and ask.

FWIW, I just finished installing Don's relay board yesterday on my very early PL400, and could not be happier. Straightforward installation, and easy to do. Excellent instruction sheet supplemented by good, detailed photos.

Worth every penny.
 
I was reading the install instructions and there is no work to do on the control board . Pm I will send . thanks
 
White Oak board and Imlay's protection is a fine combo. They go together very well. You can buy with confidence.
 
Laatsch put mine together for me. He did not use the terminal blocks. Not a big deal either way, terminals or soldered in thru hole. Soldered to me is more reliable over a long hall. With new board I do not anticipate much service going to be going on in there, if any for a long time. Don's board has the terminal block on it, no soldering at all with this installation.
 
Gibsonian said:
Laatsch put mine together for me. He did not use the terminal blocks. Not a big deal either way, terminals or soldered in thru hole. Soldered to me is more reliable over a long hall. With new board I do not anticipate much service going to be going on in there, if any for a long time. Don's board has the terminal block on it, no soldering at all with this installation.
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Not entirely true. You have to solder the AC line to the rectifier, a ground wire to the input common, and a DC line to a common bus. But, all the connections to the relay board are via terminal block (which is probably what you meant :)).
 
My apologies for not replying to comments about the relay board. Fortunately you guys have covered for me. I'm on the road for a couple weeks and it's difficult to keep up.

Lee, the 400II arrived the night beofre I left and I didn't even have a chance to unpack it.

I had a 400 shipped to where I'm working. Last weekend I assembled a computer fan controller into an external CD drive case. The controller has thermal sensors that I taped to the top ouput transistor in each stack. The sensors vary the fan speed as the transistors heat up.

120mm fans wedge comfortably in the heat sinks. With a latop and sofware as a signal generator and an improvised resistive load I was able to do some testing on two different fans.

I'll probably start a new thread when time allows with pics and test results. Here is a review of the controller.

NZXT controlle review
 
laatsch55 said:
Oh yeah, that'll go in there. Measure the spacing on the mounting holes, should fit. I've never seen a 4 bulb that Joe's LED board WOULDN'tT fit.
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Just to close this out, in case someone else out there has my particular version of this amp and is thinking about the White Oak LED kit.....

The good news is that the LED front panel kit arrived quickly - shipped from MA on Saturday, arrived in CA on Monday.

The somewhat bad news - the post holes were a tiny bit off, but after I took a jeweler's rat-tail file to the two outboard holes and made them a bit oblong, it dropped right in.

The disappointing news - the kit didn't make much difference over the incandescent bulbs in regards to brightness. The meters are still very dark, I'm guessing because the Honeywell meter lenses are a dark smoke gray. Either that, or the LED's don't get up high enough on the bottom to get the majority of their light past the light baffles on the bottom of the meter. As this is the only PL-400 I've ever seen in person, I do not know if the Honeywell meters that I have are the fly in the ointment or not. But the pics on the White Oak site definitely show meters with clear lenses...... I should have picked up on that. :(

In any case, the front panel is updated and at least I won't have to worry about changing bulbs in the future. :)
 
I have had a lot of 400's go through my hands and the smoke lens is about a third of what I have seen. Dids you get the white LED's?? Removing the diffuser tape on the bottom of the "smoke" meters helps also.
 
laatsch55 said:
I have had a lot of 400's go through my hands and the smoke lens is about a third of what I have seen. Dids you get the white LED's?? Removing the diffuser tape on the bottom of the "smoke" meters helps also.
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Yeah - I got the white LED's.

The bottom of my lenses have a "waffle" light baffle, painted white. There is no tape to remove. I'm thinking of maybe making a thin cardboard insert covered with tin foil to reflect more light up....

If any of you PL repair folks have a spare set of clear meters, I'd be interested....
 
Will soldering the wires to the leads of the 2n5088 be sufficient or should I look for those little crimp splices like on the original 2n3403?
 
What I do Sir, is form little hook ends and bend them over so there is a little mechanical grip. Strip back about 1/4 inch of the new wire you put on the 5088 and solder it so it can be bent in a hook also. Something about the signal going through only solder that bothers me. Doing it like this has the solder maintaining the mechanical connection, not being the transfer medium.
 
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