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Pioneer SA-9500 : Troubleshooting Noise

RICK KING said:
Question: The AWG-32 control amp board has two transistors that are apparently right and left. When I tap on them I can hear the tapping through my headphones. Is this normal? I think these are Q5 & Q7 that you said to replace.
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If you tap on other parts of the board do you get the same symptom? Is it equal between left and right channels? Ceramic caps can exhibit a 'microphonic' response to physical vibration, sometimes. :dunno:
 
merlynski said:
If you tap on other parts of the board do you get the same symptom? Is it equal between left and right channels? Ceramic caps can exhibit a 'microphonic' response to physical vibration, sometimes. :dunno:
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No other parts exhibit the "microphone" effect (good way you put that). Just the two transistors and equal right and left.
 
@Skywatcher

I did as you said and still "slack". The "slack" seems to be with the shaft and the white plastic grommets (I guess grommets or bushings??) that seem to hold the shaft in place. All other parts are clean and tight (i.e. the two ball bearings and spring). A person near me borrowed my original service manual and getting it back in a few hours. I'm looking at the downloaded PDF version ATM. My point is I don't see a detailed drawing of the unit. It is connected to AWK-39-C. I assume that if it goes bad one would replace the entire Function Switch. The part number is listed that way as part ASD-021-A. There's one on the bay for $150US. It's used, but has a return on it??? I may be no better off with it though.

I may take it out completely since I have time. I guess messed up when ordering from Mouser for the transistors. In the order I included some back order pieces (not related to current project). I got an email that the order would hold until the other pieces come in (June and September). I emailed them back and said to split or cancel the backordered pieces. Have not heard back yet.

FYI: Waiting is a little longer when you retire. Laws of physics cease to exist.

Really, really appreciate all the help and advice.

Sincerely,
Rick
 
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RICK KING said:
@Skywatcher

I did as you said and still "slack". The "slack" seems to be with the shaft and the white plastic grommets (I guess grommets or bushings??) that seem to hold the shaft in place. All other parts are clean and tight (i.e. the two ball bearings and spring). A person near me borrowed my original service manual and getting it back in a few hours. I'm looking at the downloaded PDF version ATM. My point is I don't see a detailed drawing of the unit. It is connected to AWK-39-C. I assume that if it goes bad one would replace the entire Function Switch. The part number is listed that way as part ASD-021-A. There's one on the bay for $150US. It's used, but has a return on it??? I may be no better off with it though.

I may take it out completely since I have time. I guess messed up when ordering from Mouser for the transistors. In the order I included some back order pieces (not related to current project). I got an email that the order would hold until the other pieces come in (June and September). I emailed them back and said to split or cancel the backordered pieces. Have not heard back yet.

FYI: Waiting is a little longer when you retire. Laws of physics cease to exist.

Really, really appreciate all the help and advice.

Sincerely,
Rick
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From your photo, the "white plastic" the shaft goes through on each wafer is the "hub". If they are worn and that sloppy, there isn't much you can do. The hubs are usually a very hard black plastic so the white must be softer material. You do not want to glue the shaft to the hub because any end play in the shaft will cause the hub to pull or push on the contacts causing other issues and possibly breakage. That switch must have been "well used" for it to get that worn out. As far as the switch on Fleabay, if you get it be sure to examine it for wear before doing anything with it. Sometimes you can contact the seller with a reasonable offer too. But some won't budge and keep relisting the same things over and over and.... at the same price. It's worth a shot though.
 
Hi,

Turns out that the part is not going to work. I will have to make sure the Selector is centered well until I can get a replacement.

Speaking of replacement. I am at a stand-still until I hear back from Mouser. No parts to move forward.

To top it off, the SX-626 I am using while the SA-9500 is down has a speaker issue. Probably because I have been using it as a pre-amp/Tuner to the SA-9500 and have not wired speakers to it for years. It will need work next. Headphones are fine.

@PTL-Pioneer: Like your name. Pioneer is my main gear all around. Hooked to 76 Klipsch Cornwall speakers. Still collecting Pioneer though; many that I still want.

Cheers!
Rick

EDIT: I ordered exact quantity of parts through Dig-Key. Appears to be same brand and will get here Saturday or Monday. In the meantime going to make some cables to connect the MAC Audio Function Generator to the scope. Maybe de-solder some old boards for practice.
 
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Hi,

Received today from Digi-Key:
512-KSC2383YTA, 512-KSC2690AYSTU, 512-KSA992FBTA (extras in case of problems)
Nicely packaged and prompt.

I can't start on pulling and installing for a few days though. Maybe Friday or Saturday. I tore apart a lot of boards practicing. I did not use flux and wondered if I should have.

I really like the ENGINEER SS-02 Solder Sucker. It is 10x better than the one I had before...it did not suck. Got the bug though. Will look forward to other chassis that need work after this. Although, I do think the SA-9500 has other issue(s); but one step-at-a-time.

I will keep you informed of my progress. Hope you guys will be around for question should they arise. I do plan on using leaded solder. I think I should wear my anti-static wrist band.

Oh. Are there any concerns with heat on the older PCBs? Is there a certain temperature that I should stay at/under/maintain? Any last minutes suggestions from the mentors/coaches?

Cheers!
Rick

P.S. I still have not heard back from Mouser.
 
I like to use a hot iron, add extra liquid flux to my solderwick, use as little pressure as possible, let the heat do the work, in and out quickly. Sometimes adding a bit of new solder will help the old flow better. I use Kester 63/37 leaded eutectic solder. The old PCBs were not intended to stand up to repeated rework, so easy does it. Sometimes it is safer and easier to cut the component legs off first (from the component side), then unsolder the little stubs of leads. I have a Soldapult solder sucker from my bench tech days, but it does not get much use on vintage gear. I do not have (or feel I need) a heated vacuum desoldering iron/tool. YMMV, some techs really love them.
 
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Hi,

Wasn't sure where to post my question so I will start here. It is off my own topic.

I'm reading about using my oscilloscope for testing my amps. It mentions needing a dummy load for speakers and also I read about electronic loads. What do I need and also where can I learn more about using the oscilloscope with my hifi gear for testing? For now, all I have is a PC based function generator, but I get a pretty good signal on my scope (I think).

Thanks
Rick
 
RICK KING said:
Hi,

Wasn't sure where to post my question so I will start here. It is off my own topic.

I'm reading about using my oscilloscope for testing my amps. It mentions needing a dummy load for speakers and also I read about electronic loads. What do I need and also where can I learn more about using the oscilloscope with my hifi gear for testing? For now, all I have is a PC based function generator, but I get a pretty good signal on my scope (I think).

Thanks
Rick
Click to expand...
Start here and enjoy the show. :lurk:
 
RICK KING said:
What is your favorite Dark Side of the Moon format.
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I have a vinyl Half-Speed Master copy that is wonderful, but has not been spun in 30 years. I bought it new when they first came out. The first one I bought was warped on the edge so bad my woofers would motor in and out visibly when the warped edge came around under the needle. I took it back and it was replaced. The next one was weird, it had side one pressed on both sides. Should have kept that one as a collectible, but I took it back also. The record dealer was pissed to see me back again, did not believe me, so he played it, yup, side one on both sides. Got a third one, it was not warped and sounded great. I recorded it onto a metal cassette tape and played that for years. Still have that too. When it came out on CD I bought that also (several times). I have a regular vinyl pressing also, that I bought before I got the half-speed master.

Then about a week ago I was reading some Pink Floyd history and learned that Dark Side of the Moon was originally recorded and mixed as a discrete 4 channel recording, that was, at one time, available on a 4-track R2R or 8-track tape. My OCD brain immediately said I needed to buy a four track R2R, 2 more Column II speakers, and another amp comparable to my SX-1050, and find a copy of that tape.

Most of the time I listen to a ripped version from the CD, off my music server, through a JRiver player.
I have almost finished the refurb of my SX-1050. A few more warm days should do it, my electronics shop is in an unheated outbuilding (that's a good excuse, right?).

My turntable need its grease refreshed, new rubber and a new stylus, too, before I would spin that LP on it again.

Is DSOTM available in 4-track on DAT?

FWIW, I normally would not wander so far from the original subject in a thread, but is your thread, and you asked me. :rolleyes:

What format(s) do you have?
 
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I started the wandering. DSOTM is good in any format.; I think I have them all (LP, Cassette, SACD, hires, etc.) The DAT version I have is "supposed" to be a master copy, copy. copy. All I know is it's the best sounding I have. I also like the SACD 5.1 version. The books say it was originally quad, but supposedly Alan Parson has them.??? or lost.
 
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