Pioneer SX-737 Relay
- Thread starter richaudio
- Start date
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This thread:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=150439
addresses your question.
I have had very good luck removing the operating core of this relay from it's case:
omron ly2f-dc24 mouser part number 653-ly2f-dc24
and inserting it into the original relay's case. It has worked quite a few times.
Tip: when removing the old relay WHEN YOU HAVE THE REPLACEMENT IN HAND,
1. unmount the old relay case from the chassis - removal of mounting screws
2. use shims to slip the old relay core out of it's case (wires STILL attached!!) past the two side retaining tabs near the bottom.
2.a. a cut up polyester (2L, 1L etc) soda bottle works for this, pry up the case on each side slightly with a knife blade
2.b. and slip the shim in to prevent the tab from re-engaging.
3. slip the new relay core into the old case
4. mount the old case / new core combination back in the chassis
5. Now, to preserve the stranded wire used to wire the relay in, I cut the eyelet/tab to old relay core connection, clip away as much of the tab as possible from the joint before heating, then desolder the joint and clip away even more of the tab - keeping the heat to a minimum to avoid damaging the wire's insulation.
6. Then transfer the wires ONE at a TIME to the mounted replacement relay and solder it in, thus leaving clear access for the soldering iron, and not blocking access to the wire to be soldered by others that have yet to be soldered, subjecting them to the risk of heat damage from the iron's body...
By going one at a time - cut - desolder - clean - reinstall - you significantly reduce the possibility of a wiring error as well as preserving the wiring that stays with the chassis - we don't care about the old relay core's pins...
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=150439
addresses your question.
I have had very good luck removing the operating core of this relay from it's case:
omron ly2f-dc24 mouser part number 653-ly2f-dc24
and inserting it into the original relay's case. It has worked quite a few times.
Tip: when removing the old relay WHEN YOU HAVE THE REPLACEMENT IN HAND,
1. unmount the old relay case from the chassis - removal of mounting screws
2. use shims to slip the old relay core out of it's case (wires STILL attached!!) past the two side retaining tabs near the bottom.
2.a. a cut up polyester (2L, 1L etc) soda bottle works for this, pry up the case on each side slightly with a knife blade
2.b. and slip the shim in to prevent the tab from re-engaging.
3. slip the new relay core into the old case
4. mount the old case / new core combination back in the chassis
5. Now, to preserve the stranded wire used to wire the relay in, I cut the eyelet/tab to old relay core connection, clip away as much of the tab as possible from the joint before heating, then desolder the joint and clip away even more of the tab - keeping the heat to a minimum to avoid damaging the wire's insulation.
6. Then transfer the wires ONE at a TIME to the mounted replacement relay and solder it in, thus leaving clear access for the soldering iron, and not blocking access to the wire to be soldered by others that have yet to be soldered, subjecting them to the risk of heat damage from the iron's body...
By going one at a time - cut - desolder - clean - reinstall - you significantly reduce the possibility of a wiring error as well as preserving the wiring that stays with the chassis - we don't care about the old relay core's pins...
Last edited:
Your title says 636, the 636 doesn't have a protection relay.
according to
http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/part.asp?productNum=ASR-007
the 737, 838, 939 and 1010 all use the same relay.
so
Yes.
