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Post a picture of your turntable

A couple other tables I like to use. These get rotated into my main system now and then.
Emipres, 298 and 598, AR-XA, Systemdek IIX. Have several more, too..

I’m tempted to sell ‘em all and put the $ toward one super-cool table - but then, I’d miss these. Each of them has its own personality - and they all sound good.

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A couple other tables I like to use. These get rotated into my main system now and then.
Emipres, 298 and 598, AR-XA, Systemdek IIX. Have several more, too..

I’m tempted to sell ‘em all and put the $ toward one super-cool table - but then, I’d miss these. Each of them has its own personality - and they all sound good.

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I know what you mean. But my main tables serve me well, too. Early SOTA Sapphire, Dual 1249 and Pioneer PL-L1000. Each has their own charm.
 
I’m tempted to sell ‘em all and put the $ toward one super-cool table - but then, I’d miss these. Each of them has its own personality - and they all sound good.
Yes. I'm doing exactly that as I down-size as we prepare to move into our retirement condo. No more "extra" gear and only one (1) turntable with 2-arms will have suffice.
 
This SP10mk2 was built for a friend, will take 3 tonearms and has remote start/stop switch on the table.

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That is interesting. So is the only SP-10 MKII component in the new plinth the motor and all the boards remained in the original square-ish base? That looks like a POM topper to the original platter, correct? What is type of wood product is sandwiched between the aluminum (I assume) plates?
 
That is interesting. So is the only SP-10 MKII component in the new plinth the motor and all the boards remained in the original square-ish base? That looks like a POM topper to the original platter, correct? What is type of wood product is sandwiched between the aluminum (I assume) plates?

The motor is removed from the SP10 chassis and remote mounted in a Permalli plinth (similar to Panzerholtz), the Permalli is 2 layers of 30mm sandwiched between 3mm aluminium plates. The top plate is epoxied to the Pz and the bottom plate is attached with screws to facilitate running the wiring for the switch and motor. PCB's are still located in the OEM chassis that has been painted charcoal grey.

The platter is OEM with 30mm POM bolted to the top and a decoupled SS spindle threaded for a reflex clamp. The damping material is also removed from the underside of the platter.
 
My current primary TT. Goldmund Studietto with the T5 arm. This tonearm may just be one of the most finicky and high maintenance arm I've had to deal with but once setup properly, it's a solid performer.

You're not wrong, I have a T3F off a Goldmund Reference which has a fault. The control electronics is Z80 micro with Z80 PIO, I suspect one of the PIO chips are faulty. I contacted Goldmund to see if I could service documentation but I was not able to elicit a response from them.
 
You're not wrong, I have a T3F off a Goldmund Reference which has a fault. The control electronics is Z80 micro with Z80 PIO, I suspect one of the PIO chips are faulty. I contacted Goldmund to see if I could service documentation but I was not able to elicit a response from them.
Yup, I purchased a broken T5 arm a while a go hoping to repair it but never got a single response from Goldmund for the service documents either...
 
You're not wrong, I have a T3F off a Goldmund Reference which has a fault. The control electronics is Z80 micro with Z80 PIO, I suspect one of the PIO chips are faulty. I contacted Goldmund to see if I could service documentation but I was not able to elicit a response from them.
Yup, I purchased a broken T5 arm a while a go hoping to repair it but never got a single response from Goldmund for the service documents either...
Good luck getting anything PlO today.
On a positive note, Kuzma and Elite, their U.S. distributor, have been responsive to any inquiries, so not all European companies offer poor customer service.
 
The motor is removed from the SP10 chassis and remote mounted in a Permalli plinth (similar to Panzerholtz), the Permalli is 2 layers of 30mm sandwiched between 3mm aluminium plates. The top plate is epoxied to the Pz and the bottom plate is attached with screws to facilitate running the wiring for the switch and motor. PCB's are still located in the OEM chassis that has been painted charcoal grey.

The platter is OEM with 30mm POM bolted to the top and a decoupled SS spindle threaded for a reflex clamp. The damping material is also removed from the underside of the platter.
Thanks for providing some of the details behind the build. Densified wood such as Panzerholtz and Permali are the best material for TT damping but the last time I looked I could not find a distributor for either in America. Small pieces were available on sites like ebay but they were not big enough for a SP-10MKII plinth that could accommodate at least one 12" tonearm. How did you machine the Permali? Typical woodworking tools or metal machining tools?

I recall you built a POM platter for your turntable. It may be hard to pull apart the impact of the individual changes made with this design but can you attribute a positive change to the combo of 30mm POM "mat"/OEM platter vs the original platter and mat?
 
New member here (I just posted an introduction elsewhere) but am jumping into the fray here with some pics.

Here are my three “current” table setups:

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MicroSeiki DD-40 on stock MA-505 tonearm/additional MicroSeiki subweight with a recently rebuilt Ortofon Jubilee on a LH6000 headshell (seriously blows me away with anything I throw at it).

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Dual 731q (which runs perfect except for that damn steuerpimple I need to replace to make the auto start/stop work again!) with a 1/2” headshell adapter rocking a NOS Micro Acoustics 2002e. This is an amazing sounding & synergistic combo with an effective mass under 10 grams (!)). Must be heard to be believed.

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Lastly, my dedicated mono setup is a MicroSeiki BL-91 & a MA-505x tonearm/additional OEM
subweight & an Ortofon MC A Mono on a LH6000 headshell. SRA is a perfect 92 degrees when spinning. Probably as close to a mono cutting head as I’ll ever get. Vintage Blue Note pressings are optional (required?) listening here.

Don’t fear vintage gear! :cool:
 
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New member here (I just posted an introduction elsewhere) but am jumping into the fray here with some pics.

Here are my three “current” table setups:

MicroSeiki DD-40 on stock MA-505 tonearm/additional MicroSeiki subweight with a recently rebuilt Ortofon Jubilee on a LH6000 headshell (seriously blows me away with anything I throw at it).

Dual 731q (which runs perfect except for that damn steuerpimple I need to replace to make the auto start/stop work again!) with a 1/2” headshell adapter rocking a NOS Micro Acoustics 2002e. This is an amazing sounding & synergistic combo with an effective mass under 10 grams (!)). Must be heard to be believed.

Lastly, my dedicated mono setup is a MicroSeiki BL-91 & a MA-505x tonearm/additional OEM
subweight & an Ortofon MC A Mono on a LH6000 headshell. SRA is a perfect 92 degrees when spinning. Probably as close to a mono cutting head as I’ll ever get. Vintage Blue Note pressings are optional (required?) listening here.

Don’t fear vintage gear! :cool:
Very nice. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks for providing some of the details behind the build. Densified wood such as Panzerholtz and Permali are the best material for TT damping but the last time I looked I could not find a distributor for either in America. Small pieces were available on sites like ebay but they were not big enough for a SP-10MKII plinth that could accommodate at least one 12" tonearm. How did you machine the Permali? Typical woodworking tools or metal machining tools?

I recall you built a POM platter for your turntable. It may be hard to pull apart the impact of the individual changes made with this design but can you attribute a positive change to the combo of 30mm POM "mat"/OEM platter vs the original platter and mat?

I machined the Permalli in a turret mill with HSS-Co end mills.

I have made a few POM platters over the past few years. When I made the first few prototypes I performed impulse testing to determine the POM's effectiveness. I also changed from a Resin/bentonite plinth to the Permalli using the same motor and POM platter. the results were a 12dB reduction in resonance at 400Hz, and 6dB at 20Hz the rest of the spectrum was about the same.

The POM platter was also tested with impulse response measurements. The major improvement with the POM platter is a significant drop in noise floor.
 
POM PolyOxyMethylene also known as Acetal. Delrin is Dupont's proprietary POMH.

A lot of TT manufacturers are now using POM for platters. Clearaudio switched from Acrylic to POM a few years ago. The advantage of POM over acrylic is the attenuation of the sound energy is far greater. POM has roughly the same Acoustic Impedance as Acrylic and Rigid Vinyl (the LP). In a nutshell energy is easily transferred from the LP into the POM, reducing noise floor of the LP significantly hence more detail retrieval.
 
Pioneer PLX-1000. Got this a few years ago. Hana MC cartridge.

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POM PolyOxyMethylene also known as Acetal. Delrin is Dupont's proprietary POMH.

A lot of TT manufacturers are now using POM for platters. Clearaudio switched from Acrylic to POM a few years ago. The advantage of POM over acrylic is the attenuation of the sound energy is far greater. POM has roughly the same Acoustic Impedance as Acrylic and Rigid Vinyl (the LP). In a nutshell energy is easily transferred from the LP into the POM, reducing noise floor of the LP significantly hence more detail retrieval.
Thanks. I was thinking "piece of metal". ;)
Wonder how it compares to aluminum or other metals.
 
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