Prepping a Russco turntable..
- Thread starter MisterDK
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MisterDK
Addicted Member
Andre Garcia
“WITHOUT MUSIC, LIFE WOULD BE A MISTAKE”
You hit the target! 
nice color. Is not unusual for old Deco style.
AG.
nice color. Is not unusual for old Deco style.
AG.
MisterDK
Addicted Member
The tonearm isn’t actually wired yet - but I can hear it playing..
Cartridge is a proper broadcast cartridge - no, not the Stanton 500 but the bastard child 600.
It’s a MI cart like the 681 and I think it’ll accept all the 681 (and Pickering XV-15) styli - as well as the different 600 (and Pickering Phase IV) styli. It may even work with the 500’s MM styli but no idea how those would sound..
The 600E stylus is supposed to track at between 1-1/2 to 3 grams so have it set at 2-1/2 for now. I do have a couple original 600 conicals and a couple NOS 681 styli here to try. Have a few of these 600 bodies too, so that’s what went on this.
After getting up close and personal with this Micro-Trak headshell, I can see why there are a few 303 arms on ebay without headshells.. The threaded posts for the cart mounting screws are short and shallow - and the screws are the typical 3-48 thread. Probably easy to strip the posts out and the screws have to be just the right length.. Small spacers are helpful. Thankfully, I have some phenolic armature spacers from my slot racing days.
Tracking force was adjusted my way. I’ll see how well that works out but I think it’ll be better than following Micro-Trak’s instructions. Instructions tell you to stack thin brass shims inside the headshell. The idea behind that was that you swap headshells on with a new cartridge that’s ready to go, also at the same weight. This way, a bumbling DJ never needs tools or to make adjustments. Slide another in place and keep spinning.. All good but it makes the tonearm that much heavier and I didn’t want that. I pulled the nice sticker with make, model and serial# off the underside of the counterweight, cleaned off the sticker goo and flipped the counterweight over.
There’s a small setscrew in the counterweight that was under the sticker. Now it’s on top, making adjustment simple - just slide the weight ‘till it’s where you like and very gently snug the setscrew again. You don’t want to be ham-fisted here; the setscrew tightens against soft wood.
Just wanted to get it sort of set up before I pull the tonearm base and armboard back off to make more armboards.
Hopefully in a week or so, I can get going on my actual plinth for this..
Cartridge is a proper broadcast cartridge - no, not the Stanton 500 but the bastard child 600.
It’s a MI cart like the 681 and I think it’ll accept all the 681 (and Pickering XV-15) styli - as well as the different 600 (and Pickering Phase IV) styli. It may even work with the 500’s MM styli but no idea how those would sound..
The 600E stylus is supposed to track at between 1-1/2 to 3 grams so have it set at 2-1/2 for now. I do have a couple original 600 conicals and a couple NOS 681 styli here to try. Have a few of these 600 bodies too, so that’s what went on this.
After getting up close and personal with this Micro-Trak headshell, I can see why there are a few 303 arms on ebay without headshells.. The threaded posts for the cart mounting screws are short and shallow - and the screws are the typical 3-48 thread. Probably easy to strip the posts out and the screws have to be just the right length.. Small spacers are helpful. Thankfully, I have some phenolic armature spacers from my slot racing days.
Tracking force was adjusted my way. I’ll see how well that works out but I think it’ll be better than following Micro-Trak’s instructions. Instructions tell you to stack thin brass shims inside the headshell. The idea behind that was that you swap headshells on with a new cartridge that’s ready to go, also at the same weight. This way, a bumbling DJ never needs tools or to make adjustments. Slide another in place and keep spinning.. All good but it makes the tonearm that much heavier and I didn’t want that. I pulled the nice sticker with make, model and serial# off the underside of the counterweight, cleaned off the sticker goo and flipped the counterweight over.
There’s a small setscrew in the counterweight that was under the sticker. Now it’s on top, making adjustment simple - just slide the weight ‘till it’s where you like and very gently snug the setscrew again. You don’t want to be ham-fisted here; the setscrew tightens against soft wood.
Just wanted to get it sort of set up before I pull the tonearm base and armboard back off to make more armboards.
Hopefully in a week or so, I can get going on my actual plinth for this..
MisterDK
Addicted Member
I’ve never had a Stanton 681 but do have a few of the Pickering XV-15’s which some say are the same. Nice sounding cartridges!
I may try a Denon 103 on here, someday.
MisterDK
Addicted Member
No actual progress on my plinth yet - but I did make up a wooden armboard for it today. Needs another coat of finish and then it’ll closely match the tonearm. No idea yet if it’ll sound any better (or different) than the original, which is cast aluminum. In case you’re wondering why it has a seam, it’s ‘cause I cut it from some reclaimed hardwood that was part of an old drawer..
Armboards are pretty easy to make so I’ll probably do another one that’s a constrained layer affair.
Armboards are pretty easy to make so I’ll probably do another one that’s a constrained layer affair.
always good to reclaim wood…
nohiss
New Member
A couple of tips. Lube clean and adjust all mechanicals so they move buttery smooth. Play with your Micro Trac but you will benefit greatly by moving the tone arm off of the deck. They are very sensitive to mat material and weight. Solid, heavy plinth with good vibration absorbing feet will make a huge difference. Your Russco can perform as good or better than than Garrard 301's and Thorens TD-124's. I ditched my Thorens and Garrard after realizing the potential of these broadcast idlers. I use a Gates CB-77 but it's very similar to your Russco. Enjoy the ride. You won't be disappointed.
MisterDK
Addicted Member
Well - I’ve been thinking more about my concrete plinth ambitions..and decided not to go that route for now. I also didn’t go with the modern constrained layer sandwich on the box. This was taking a bit too long and - I want to have it up and running sooner.
I went with a more “old-school” damping for this box. Probably not as effective - but it didn’t cost anything and does seem to work.
Hope to make some feet for it soon and then get it wired and made usable. I want to hear it!
As it is right now, it pretty quiet. All I can hear with my ear right next to it (and running) is what I can only describe as platter ringing. Maybe a rubber mat on top of my felt will help - guessing it will. I may or may not be able to hear it when playing; don’t know yet.
I went with a more “old-school” damping for this box. Probably not as effective - but it didn’t cost anything and does seem to work.
Hope to make some feet for it soon and then get it wired and made usable. I want to hear it!
As it is right now, it pretty quiet. All I can hear with my ear right next to it (and running) is what I can only describe as platter ringing. Maybe a rubber mat on top of my felt will help - guessing it will. I may or may not be able to hear it when playing; don’t know yet.
I, for one, like the "Rustico" look of your plinth and have no doubt that it'll sound fantastic. If you ever want to get fancy (and in keeping with the recycled theme) you could always buy some mahogany / cherry / walnut veneered table leaves at the junk store and wrap them around the bed slats.
I've used a tad of molly grease to quieten idler springs with success on lesser machines, but I like both your's and Bill's solution better for a table of this quality (and in general.) Interested to hear how it works out.
I've used a tad of molly grease to quieten idler springs with success on lesser machines, but I like both your's and Bill's solution better for a table of this quality (and in general.) Interested to hear how it works out.
MisterDK
Addicted Member
Right now, the finger groove for lifting the platter is centered on the casting top edge. That’s how most of ‘em look to me, in Russco brochure and ad pictures. No problem to lower it though; I’m sure I’ll do some experimenting with height and oil and mats and...
Thanks. I’ll probably want fancier later on - but I’m anxious to have it working by this weekend..
I’m curious; where do you use moly grease on idler springs?
Thanks! It is sort of like building a kit but if you take your time and ask questions along the way - you’ll probably surprise yourself with how much fun it can be.
BTW - got it wired up today, both tonearm and power. I put one of the IEC 320 C14 (computer style) sockets on the back so a common cord can be plugged in, but hard-wired the tonearm to a 5’ “Monster Cable” interconnect cable with RCA ends. This cable also has a ground lead that I soldered to the arm’s braided sheath. Temporary feet are some hockey pucks with felt pads on both sides.
Sound test tomorrow..
I went through a couple of Newcomb transcription players that drove me crazy trying to isolate a noise that I was associating with the idler drive system. On these Newcombs the idler springs were under a stronger tension than others I've come across and were designed to travel up and down their corresponding post with the raising and lowering of the idler wheel. A small finger tip's bit of molly applied to the areas where the springs attached as well as some applied lightly between the coils really helped with the noise.
For the record, I've never had a noisy idler spring in any other idler I've serviced. As mentioned earlier, these were lessor quality tables.
MisterDK
Addicted Member
First audible play on the Russco - and it sounds quite nice!! I wasn’t sure what to expect with this cartridge or the stylus on it, but as with other Pickering and Stantons I’ve tried, it’s smooth and seems well rounded - bass is really nice, too. This one is a Stanton 600 w/ original 600E stylus, set at 2-1/2 grams.
The table itself sounds great; no weird vibration, hums or noise - and I haven’t heard any platter ring (was a concern) through the speakers. The Micro-Trak arm seems to work perfectly! I’m liking this quite a bit, so far..
The table itself sounds great; no weird vibration, hums or noise - and I haven’t heard any platter ring (was a concern) through the speakers. The Micro-Trak arm seems to work perfectly! I’m liking this quite a bit, so far..
Andre Garcia
“WITHOUT MUSIC, LIFE WOULD BE A MISTAKE”
If you can install a grommets on each screw that hold the tonearm will be good.
AG.
