Project: Pioneer SX-1010

[Osibisa]

What Kenwood is that in the picture, can't make out the model?

 

[SaturationPt]

Interesting that it has a LOUD light; is there one for MONO too?

Yes.

 

[Super Noob]

What Kenwood is that in the picture, can't make out the model?

Top = KR-8050
Bottom = KR-8010

 

[PTL-Pioneer]

Thats a fantastic rebuild, very impressive, well done!

 

[Super Noob]

Here is the update on the case....

Starting point:

So I like to fill these chips with 2-part epoxy.... 5 minute clear type is unimportant.

Sand the epoxy flush 220 grit, then I coat the case with gloss poly...

The poly is for clean smooth surface for the PSA.

 

[Super Noob]

Next up is the application of PSA veneer. PSA = peel and stick adhesive. I did red oak on the SX-750, and I wanted less grain, so I went to mahogany veneer with 3M (PSA).

Look am just a hack at vintage repair... and this is just my method for MY case repair (I don't have a wood shop or great tools).

Next up do the top / then the sides / then the top of the sides. The top of this on the side overlaps the side piece. You can leave the veneer a little larger and cut flush.

Did some sample staining... and I elected to just hit with clear gloss polyurethane. Gloss isn't for everybody nor is white LEDs.

Some light sanding between coats.

 

[Super Noob]

Here is the wrap up... basket case to show case.

Am a proud owner of these two classics.

 

[Sharpstik]

I have two of these AND an a restored 8050 also . ( a rarity) That job is thorough, giving me reassurance that mine were done right too.
I could not do this.

 

[Super Noob]

I have two of these AND an a restored 8050 also . ( a rarity) That job is thorough, giving me reassurance that mine were done right too.
I could not do this.

Decent amount of work... takes a minute or two (or actually hours on top of hours). David I like my Kenwood's, Sansui, Yamahas, Marantz, and others, but there is something about those SXs.

Stay safe.

 

[MIJ_Pioneer]

Wow great job Super Noob. Your detail and photos really makes it easy for beginners like me to hop right in and restore their gear. You have a great talent.

We'll done, it seems new gear I get you have a write up so maybe next it will be a 1010 They look so good.

Gimmie your thoughts on comparison with that fity underneath him! 1010 is a bit warmer right? I've never heard one.

 

[reardonp6]

Wow! Nice job Bob. A great re-build! Well done.

 

[Super Noob]

Wow great job Super Noob. Your detail and photos really makes it easy for beginners like me to hop right in and restore their gear. You have a great talent.

We'll done, it seems new gear I get you have a write up so maybe next it will be a 1010 They look so good.

Gimmie your thoughts on comparison with that fity underneath him! 1010 is a bit warmer right? I've never heard one.

Yes... I took the leap in 2017 on some recaps. Its not hard as you are figuring out as long as you invest in some tools and do some reading.

Would say I am NOT an audiophile... but I appreciate clean power and rich music. Warm is a word that I don't typically use in regards to gear.... struggle with understanding what warm means. Honestly most all of the gear I rebuilt sounds great. I run them all on the same original Advents (re-foamed and recapped) in my work area.

SX-1010 = "Straight Forward & Fortified".

Let me give you a feel (all rebuilt to some extent):
Technics SA-800
Akia AA-1200
Realistic 2100 (twice)
Realistic 2000
Pioneer SX-727
Pioneer SX-750
Pioneer SA-900
Pioneer SX-850
Pioneer SX-950
Pioneer SX-1010
Pioneer SX-1250 (twice)
Kenwood KR-8010 (twice)
Kenwood KR-8050
Kenwood 9G
Fisher RS-2010
Harman Kardon 16A
Yamaha CR-620
Yamaha CR-820
Yamaha CA-2010
Sansui 800
Sansui G7500
Sansui AU-717 (twice)
Marantz 2325
Marantz 2270
Marantz 2275

All have their own abilities.. and I like most all of them. The early pioneers like SX-727 and SX-1010 sound very nice indeed. I encourage you to experiment with brands and models. Would think you would enjoy a SX-828, SX-939, or SX-1010.

 

[Blue Shadow]

Nice work. Having seen Dave1384's Pioneer collection and his budding Marantz stack I know how he loves to see these nice vintage pieces make like new again. Nice bit of work on this one. I see your rough parts swap list doesn't mention the diode you added between pins 9 and 10. I haven't looked at exactly what thes are but I will. But would you mind explaining the fly-back diode and why? Pictures if needed. I do the understanding on my end. Thanks.

 

[Blue Shadow]

Gloss isn't for everybody nor is white LEDs.

I like that comment as I believe since it is your unit, you can do as you like.

 

[Super Noob]

I see your rough parts swap list doesn't mention the diode you added between pins 9 and 10. I haven't looked at exactly what thes are but I will. But would you mind explaining the fly-back diode and why? Pictures if needed. I do the understanding on my end. Thanks.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/flyback-diode-question.633238/

The lists are pretty much assembled from the pros here - just updated some of the smaller values caps to films; as well, went with Kemet Filters with some increased capacitance and polyethylene bypass caps.

 

[quaddriver]

Look at the 2 pics above from your old (top) and new (bottom) relay. that top relay would not be able to click in if 1000vdc was applied to it....how did you get the contacts OUTSIDE of the lugs? was it taken apart and re-assembled poorly? do not discard that relay, it may be servicable

 

[Super Noob]

Look at the 2 pics above from your old (top) and new (bottom) relay. that top relay would not be able to click in if 1000vdc was applied to it....how did you get the contacts OUTSIDE of the lugs? was it taken apart and re-assembled poorly? do not discard that relay, it may be servicable

Not sure if you read the post, but I pick up this receiver in a non-working state. Appreciate your insight = obviously that was part of the problem.

How they got like this I am unsure but I suspect = people.

40+ year old relay. Cleaning of plated contacts is not my thing... I keep the old relays in a box - in fact I have a pile that I can't jump over.

 

[Marc balistr]

I have to say thank you I used this tread as a template to fix and rebuild a few boards on sx1010 that had purchased a few years ago it had a bunch of bad Capacitors on the power supply board the faulty caps were leaking and others plainly wouldn’t charge.I also changed the Transistors on that board it seemed to me that pc was subjected to heat for a long period of time the power supply runs stable and seems to run cool . I swapped the main filter caps , protection relay the contacts were Burnished , I put the film caps that you suggested In the pre amp which made a significant change in the sound for the good the Instruments separation improved greatly and the soundstage opened up I am just enjoying it now I plan on getting into the driver boards , protection Circuit and phono amp at a later date
Thanks
Marc

 

[Super Noob]

I have to say thank you I used this tread as a template to fix and rebuild a few boards on sx1010 that had purchased a few years ago it had a bunch of bad Capacitors on the power supply board the faulty caps were leaking and others plainly wouldn’t charge.I also changed the Transistors on that board it seemed to me that pc was subjected to heat for a long period of time the power supply runs stable and seems to run cool . I swapped the main filter caps , protection relay the contacts were Burnished , I put the film caps that you suggested In the pre amp which made a significant change in the sound for the good the Instruments separation improved greatly and the soundstage opened up I am just enjoying it now I plan on getting into the driver boards , protection Circuit and phono amp at a later date
Thanks
Marc

I may have done another one since then... great unit indeed.

 

[mangist]

If anyone is interested, I went through Zebulon's list from https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/questions-about-the-sx1010-bom.902511/

and updated it using replacement parts from Mouser and Digikey where there were out-of-stock parts. I included the part #s, costs and supplier. The total came to $168.55 (including shipping) for all parts including new filter capacitors ($51.72) and output transistors.

If I've made any mistakes with the replacements please indicate those, I'm waiting for my orders to arrive. As of today everything in the BOM is in stock so you can simply paste into a new order and go. My BOM does not include all the diodes like Super Noob has but I think I have enough of those on hand to not bother ordering them. Any reason to replace diodes if they are in-spec? I've not seen this done often during resto/recap jobs.

Cheers.