lopezluna
Active Member
Looks good, nice write up too. This ought to be very helpful for a future restoration on sx-1010 I will be picking up tomorrow. Thanks @Super NoobI may have done another one since then... great unit indeed.
Project: Pioneer SX-1010
- Thread starter Super Noob
- Start date
Bimmerb5
New Member
How do you access the solder sider of the tuner board? I'm pretty much stuck right there.Finishing Up:
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pivot along one edge, up.
Find the pivot edge with the least wires interference. NO shielded cable interference!!!
Interfering wires have their wire wraps UNMOLESTED.
Wires are spliced during their run - but NOT shielded cable
Loosen the harnesses to gain slack..
Find the pivot edge with the least wires interference. NO shielded cable interference!!!
Interfering wires have their wire wraps UNMOLESTED.
Wires are spliced during their run - but NOT shielded cable
Loosen the harnesses to gain slack..
I found it easier to remove a few wire wrapped pins.
There’s a couple of wrapped pins on the forward edge that I desolder and pull the wirewraped pin and all. Those two or three wrapped pins will allow the board to hinge and reveal the trace side.
Loosen the board from its mounts and you’ll see the wires that prevent you from hinging it open.
When done. Push the wrapped pins back in and solder.
There’s a couple of wrapped pins on the forward edge that I desolder and pull the wirewraped pin and all. Those two or three wrapped pins will allow the board to hinge and reveal the trace side.
Loosen the board from its mounts and you’ll see the wires that prevent you from hinging it open.
When done. Push the wrapped pins back in and solder.
Actually.... there is no way you put 5 heat sinks on that, let alone 6... most I could fit was 4, and I ended up removing #4 (top hole between MJE15032/33) because it was peeking above heatsink, putting it at risk of touching bottom plate, and potentially flexing the power board. On mine, the single D313(which became an MJE15023G) didn't have a way to mount a heat sink next to it, that hole was used to mount the rear insulator the transistor screwed into as a mean to separate the collector from the main heat sink. But, looking over it, I didn't see a reason or benefit for more than 3 additional heatsinks, one per power transistor, so that's what I settled with. But hardly a loss, I have 3 really nice small heat sinks leftover that I can use in other projects. Thanks for the idea! Anything I can do to prolong the life of my unit I am all for! So far, I am through power supply, protection, fm mute (took your advice there, did not change transistors, my unit has an AMAZING tuner circuit, and I cannot work on that, so thanks for heads up there!) and onto the pre-amp tonight! Now stuff gets fun!
Out of curiosity, what's up with metallized poly panasonic .68uF cap? I've never seen that done, don't get quite how it was done... any info on the origins of the mod? Thanks!AMP Assembly (AWH-032-D) *D Version (your mileage may vary) / Two Boards (2x the quantity)
Capacitors:
C1, 0.68 uF, 25v, Electro (CSSA), 0.68 uF, ECW-FD2W684KB
C2, 1.5 uF, 25v,, Electro (CSSA),1.5 uF, MKS2C041501H00KI00
C4,10 uF, 16v, Electro (CEA),10 uF, 25v, UPW1E100MDD
C8, 330 uF, 6.3v, Electro (CEA),330 uF, 16v, UPW1C331MPD
Transistors:
Q1, 2SA726,(matched Q1-Q3), KSA992FB
Q2, 2SA726,(matched Q1-Q3), KSA992FB
Q3, 2SA726,(matched Q1-Q3), KSA992FB
Q4, 2SB528, KSA1220AYS
Q5, 2SC1451, KSC3503ESTU
Q6, 2SC1451,KSC3503ESTU
Q7, 2SD358, KSC2690AYS
Q8, 2SB528, KSA1220AYS
Q9, 2SC1448, KSC2073
Q10, 2SA740, KSA940
Q11, 2SC945, KSC1845FTA
Q12, 2SA733, KSA992FBU
Diodes
D1, 1S2473,1N4148 (not on D board)
D2 1S2473,1N4148
D3, 1S1886, 200V, 1 AMP MUR130G, 300V, 1 AMP
D4, 1S1886, 200V, 1 AMP MUR130G, 300V, 1 AMP
D6 STV-3, Retain 1.62 V Drop
D7 STV-3, Retain 1.62 V Drop
Trimmers:
VR1, 2.2K Ohm, 3296P-1-202LF (25 Turn)
VR2, 470 Ohm, 3386H-1-501LF (Single Term)
Elected to desolder the 90 degree wire wrap pins at the bottom to get good access.
Super Noob
Super Member
Use any film cap you like… it’s in the signal path.
Fair enough, I was wondering if there was a specific reason you went with that, it's a very interesting choice, I am very used to using like WIMA or Kemet style films, I don't use those thin, long profile metallized ones too often. Different is sometimes nice! Anyway, your thread has been helpful for me to make decisions, so thanks!
wima and kemet are much newer capacitor lines
electrolytic caps in the .1uf to 2uF range are ALWAYS replaced by film caps.
it's a trade off involving available space for that capacitor.
e-caps are are smaller because of the miracles of material science and chemistry working together to mimic a much larger leyden jar (basic capacitor).
electrolytic caps in the .1uf to 2uF range are ALWAYS replaced by film caps.
it's a trade off involving available space for that capacitor.
e-caps are are smaller because of the miracles of material science and chemistry working together to mimic a much larger leyden jar (basic capacitor).
Super Noob
Super Member
Polypropylene.
Polypropylene or Polyester
Apparently ordered Wima polyesters when I wanted polypropylene caps to replace the 1ufs for a recap of an NAD 7060. Researched the difference on the net, came across an opinion that the polyesters tend to be more fatiguing to listen to, depending on the number of them. Makes me wonder why...
audiokarma.org
I think what they mean is that the overuse of them can lead to a "bright" sound, which is what has steered me away from them because I have experienced that. At any rate, I came to a similar conclusion, and got some 250V version that ended up fitting nicer once leads were straightened. Will edit to upload a pic of my amp board, we did similar things, but came to slightly different endings. My drivers were TIP47/MJE15031G. I don't have 1220s so this is a solid method that has worked for me and my friends thus far, in case you ever run into such an issue down the road.
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WOW. Just WOW. This restoration article simply blows me away!
Background - I'm a snowbird in Florida for the winter, but this year I did something I should have done years ago - I brought a non-working SX-1010 with me in an attempt to rebuild it. I bought the unit sometime in 1976 or 1977, don't remember exactly when, drove some Cerwin Vegas with it until in the 80s... It finally quit producing sound, and has laid in the basement for about 30 years.
I only wish I could do half the job you've done on yours.
I think I can do the soldering, etc., It'll take me awhile. I'm going to follow your article as best I can. I'm new here at Audiokarma, just hope I can keep up with you all.
Thanks Super Noob, for your article.
Glenn M.
Background - I'm a snowbird in Florida for the winter, but this year I did something I should have done years ago - I brought a non-working SX-1010 with me in an attempt to rebuild it. I bought the unit sometime in 1976 or 1977, don't remember exactly when, drove some Cerwin Vegas with it until in the 80s... It finally quit producing sound, and has laid in the basement for about 30 years.
I only wish I could do half the job you've done on yours.I think I can do the soldering, etc., It'll take me awhile. I'm going to follow your article as best I can. I'm new here at Audiokarma, just hope I can keep up with you all.
Thanks Super Noob, for your article.
Glenn M.
Hey man, we're all here to help! I do recommend starting your own thread though- this thread is far too good of a resource to clog up.WOW. Just WOW. This restoration article simply blows me away!
Background - I'm a snowbird in Florida for the winter, but this year I did something I should have done years ago - I brought a non-working SX-1010 with me in an attempt to rebuild it. I bought the unit sometime in 1976 or 1977, don't remember exactly when, drove some Cerwin Vegas with it until in the 80s... It finally quit producing sound, and has laid in the basement for about 30 years.
I think I can do the soldering, etc., It'll take me awhile. I'm going to follow your article as best I can. I'm new here at Audiokarma, just hope I can keep up with you all.
Thanks Super Noob, for your article.
Glenn M.
Welcome to AK! Before you start on your rebuild; read the many threads here concerning your 1010. It's a popular unit around these parts. It will definitely help you with your project and may answer questions you might have as you go. Good luck!WOW. Just WOW. This restoration article simply blows me away!
Background - I'm a snowbird in Florida for the winter, but this year I did something I should have done years ago - I brought a non-working SX-1010 with me in an attempt to rebuild it. I bought the unit sometime in 1976 or 1977, don't remember exactly when, drove some Cerwin Vegas with it until in the 80s... It finally quit producing sound, and has laid in the basement for about 30 years.
I think I can do the soldering, etc., It'll take me awhile. I'm going to follow your article as best I can. I'm new here at Audiokarma, just hope I can keep up with you all.
Thanks Super Noob, for your article.
Glenn M.
Lol, I'm not nearly at the level of expertise that you all are; I only wanted to thank Super Noob for the article, not start a thread.
I'm not incompetent with the repair end, just am not going to spend the huge amounts of time that you all have in doing restorations. Just wanted to get mine working again if possible...
Thanks again, Super Noob, for the article. I'm sure I'm going to be using your pics and parts lists to good advantage!
Glenn M.
Super Noob
Super Member
This was shared with the hopes it would help people like you. Best of luck.
Ha - my serial is a VL as well - just got it two nights ago and its dusty and covered in nicotine but she's pristine underneath it all - except for a broken antenna mount - go figure.. Let's see how far apart they are if you still have it.Project Pioneer: SX-1010
In my neverending quest for 70s silver face bliss, the adventure continues.
There was a post in BT for a somewhat local unloved Pioneer SX-1010 with more than a few operational & cosmetic issues. This was my first purchase off BT since my status was updated to subscriber more than a year ago.
@reardonp6 = thanks Pat.
As you may know, have much love for all things 70s stereo related, and this was a chance to get into a unit that was arguably the first shot fired in the 70s power war. With 100 watts per channel at 20 Hz @ 8 Ohm - the SX-1010 was a game changer for sure.
The birth year of the SX-1010 coincides with mine = 1974. My patient though was a very late production unit with a serial number of "VL" = December 1975. It has some nuances that are untypical of the early models.
Over the last three years or so, I have rebuilt so many units but have always found the Pioneer equipment had exceptional build quality and always responded great to recaps / rebuilds. SX-1250 (2), SX-950 (1), SX-850 (1), SX-750 (1), and SX-727 (1). The SX-727 was a lower wattage unit that showed me early Pioneer gear (prior to the SX-xx50 line) were worthwhile. In fact many folks here - in the know - feel that the SX-1010 is one of the best sounding Pioneers ever built.
The patient was in non-functioning state with front glass busted, no top cover, missing knobs and switch covers, busted power toggle, speaker switch 'A' non-functioning. I would consider my 1010 a "barn find" with some light corrosion and definitely a basket case; however, I do enjoy testing my limited skills and patience that non-working units present.
My boy Issac - @ivandezande - hooked me up with a top cover and some knobs. Thanks Dude!
The following posts will breakdown my rebuild that occurred over the past few months. Hope you enjoy and are inspired to be safe and tackle a build in the future. Most of the lists utilize the work previously done by @markthefixer @EchoWars & @zebulon1 @kevzep @larryderouin @mattsd. These folks are inspiring and extremely charitable with their years of knowledge = thanks.
VL3925539M