Project: Yamaha CA-2010

[MikeC3PO]

Wow great job!

Working on one of these right now and while I picked a similar model of filter cap, wondering if this is...standard, or the only way to get them to fit? You cut off the original lugs and then harvested them to to new cap. No other way of getting it to fit?

I put these same caps on a CR-2020 the other day and it dropped right in, but they weren't tightly packed so that off-center angle didnt matter

Or did you just do this so you could keep the original bracket?

(side note, saw you replaced the original metalized mylar caps on the lytic board for panasonics, is it worth tearing out the originals to leave them be? I never considered swapping till now)

I found Avionic's method much easier to align, I tried to document in the following post:

Post in thread 'Yamaha CA-2010 Restoration'

Feb 22, 2026

Fabricated some 3D printed spacer rings at the library with my daughter this afternoon to help with fitting the new filter caps. Thanks to Avionic for the idea.

• MikeC3PO

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[Mat86]

Can anyone here shed some light on how to get the shafts popped out of the black sockets? Everything feels very stiff and 'meant to be there' and I dont want to crack any plastic just pulling aimlessly. Is there a method to this?

Function Board (NA06832) Schematic NAO6877

 

[MikeC3PO]

Is there a method to this?

Depending on where I am along on the disassembly process I either loosen up the right side of the front plate to make some space or fold down the back plate and unmount the function board to pull the whole assembly back away form the shafts. Once you free them the first time you’ll have some more ability to move the shafts back a forth within the black plastic housings. The physically come out of the black plastic from either side. Also the universal joints can come off the switches.

 

[Mat86]

Depending on where I am along on the disassembly process I either loosen up the right side of the front plate to make some space or fold down the back plate and unmount the function board to pull the whole assembly back away form the shafts. Once you free them the first time you’ll have some more ability to move the shafts back a forth within the black plastic housings. The physically come out of the black plastic from either side. Also the universal joints can come off the switches.

thank you so much for the idea, I'll give it a shot

I was considering folding the back away but wasn't sure if I needed to lift the function board first to do so, and none of the videos online had the back tilted down

Manual itself only says to "slide the 'couplers of the shaft' on the function board (not the ones on the front assembly) and remove" before removing the board's screws

 

[avionic]

Manual itself only says to "slide the 'couplers off the shaft'

If you slide the u-jointed couplers (2 each) all the way in one direction. (4 points that will slide) You can get the shafts to line up and fit in place perfectly. Very easy. Then just slide all shafts and couplers back into place.

 

[avionic]

There is only one right way to install the shafts. Pay attention to the front chassis panel hard stops. And each of the switches, "end of travel" stops.

 

[Mat86]

do the black pieces slide on both ends of the shaft, towards the center of the shaft? im getting some give but so far only on the face-plate side

if not, there's a greater than 50% chance a previous idiot-tech reinstalled them backwards

 

[MikeC3PO]

do the black pieces slide on both ends of the shaft

Yes the slide on both ends of the shaft and / or off the switch shafts themselves. First removal in who knows how many years can be tight. That’s why it helps to make space as described, especially for the first time.

 

[Mat86]

got it, pulling away from the faceplate was the only way to get them to slowly slide down the shaft, other ones wont budge for me yet (though I know they should come off based on pics)

 

[Mat86]

Regarding 3D printed spacers and various extension mods for filter caps, I assumed (rightly?) that these methods were only for a purist build to keep the original, tighter retention bracket? Because I've now installed my caps and they dropped right in with only a slight 5mm bend in the leads necessary.



So for anyone in the future using this guide as reference, there is a path of least resistance

 

[MikeC3PO]

Regarding 3D printed spacers and various extension mods for filter caps, I assumed (rightly?) that these methods were only for a purist build to keep the original, tighter retention bracket? Because I've now installed my caps and they dropped right in with only a slight 5mm bend in the leads necessary.
View attachment 3775923
View attachment 3775925

So for anyone in the future using this guide as reference, there is a path of least resistance

No retinting bracket with this option however. All the forces for those large caps are transferred to the soldered connections. Not sure about long term durability this way. Just my 2c.

 

[Mat86]

No retinting bracket with this option however. All the forces for those large caps are transferred to the soldered connections. Not sure about long term durability this way. Just my 2c.

I dont think its an issue any more than any other 50mm filter cap. Solid footing, plus dabbed some silicone beneath it to dampen anything. But it was very sturdy even without.

That said, I can see why they used a retaining bracket stock, the original caps were fitted directly against one another and could potentially rattle, and when I removed the bracket they did flop around pretty dangerously (part of that possibly from how bulged they were, one was leaking hard). Opposite is true now.