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Recapping the 1060 recaps

Got it. What about these fused resistors that have been mentioned? In my service manual I see 3 kinds of resistors listed, carbon, solid and variable. I will assume the variables are some sort of adjustment pot? When replacing resistors should I use the metal films? Also, what purpose do the bypass caps hooked in parallel to the output caps serve?
 
I have no manual for the 1060, and my schematic is about 1/2 step from useless, so I can't comment on the first part of your question other than to say that fuse resistors should be replaced with non-flammable types.

The bypass caps act to lower the impedence of the pair of caps at high frequencies. The very construction of large electrolytic caps (wound, like an inductor) hinders the passage of current at the highest octaves.
 
I'm going to have to re-read this thread a few times to let it sink in.

I have a very nice NOS 1060 that a friend had in storage for about 35+ years that still sounds very nice, but is begging for a full recap.

:lurk:
 
I have ordered the caps that have been discussed so far. When I get them installed I would like to press on with this thread into other areas that need to be covered.
 
There are eight 2sc1000 transistors in the 1060. 4 in the preamp and 4 on the tone control board. I was instructed by fellow AK'er Dr*Audio to replace them with new Toshiba 2SC1815 from Mouser as they are lower noise and great replacements.

I have done so in two 1060 recaps and I think it worked out well. They are dirt cheap, too. So thats one more thing you can do if you want to hot-rod your 1060!

Keep us posted!
 
Update #1: Received my coupling and bypass caps from Mouser and installed this evening. Cost with shipping was about $20 and time was about 45 minutes start to finish. I will not attempt to describe the difference with a string of flowery adjectives or other such baloney, just that the upgrade is SIGNIFICANT. I've seen the word "thin" used to describe weak caps and I would say that fits. If you have a 1060 and have not done anything to it yet I would say a good cleaning and the previously described coupling cap upgrades cannot be beaten for "bang for the buck". I am now ready to proceed with the other caps, I will also replace the transistors as suggested and am thinking about upgrading the resisors. Another thing I want to do is consolidate my orders to save on shipping, I wish I would have ordered those transistors when I placed my order with Mouser. I am open to suggestions as far as other upgrades and appropriate cap values as I continue. A 1060 service manual is available for download in the Marantz database. Thanks so far and fire away!
 
Out of curiosity which brand/value caps did you use?

Glad to hear it worked out to your advantage. I am a huge proponent of recapping!
 
Shakey Jakey said:
A 1060 service manual is available for download in the Marantz database.
Click to expand...
Is this correct? I have seen an owner's manual and schematic there, but not a service manual. The schematic is helpful, but I find the second page (right half) is tricky to read, scan a bit fuzzy especially on the P900 board.

Closely monitoring this thread - fooled around at my workbench today making a list of all the electrolytics and their values. A couple weeks behind Jakey on parts ordering.

Is there any cause to replace any mylar caps? There was some discussion earlier replacing the 1uf ones on the amp board (e.g. fat orange C725/C726)?
 
I prefer to replace large-ish value mylar caps with polypropylene caps because I feel they sound better. They have a tighter tolerance to boot.

There are .22uf and .47uf mylar caps that can be replaced on the tone control and phono boards of the 1060 but I also replaced the .47uf coupling caps on the driver board with poly caps.

You could always keep the old mylar ones to put back if you dont like the sound of polys
 
For fun I ordered the 10,000uf and 8200uf caps along with the 1W 1K ohm resistor. Gonna soup up the office 1060 some time in the coming weeks.

Thanks for the tips Echo.
 
FYI The 80mm length of the Mallory ripple cap (50mm x 80mm) is the MAX length that will fit. It is tight between the chassis and the cover. Perfect fit though, and the screw terminals are nice. Thanks Echo.
 
Nice! A power supply cap that costs 25% of the entire unit! Can you post any pics? I always go with the Panasonic TSHA because of cost concerns. If I was going all out and price was not an issue I would consider a screw terminal cap - but I have not used one yet. I assume they are easier to install because of the screw terminals?
 
I would liked to have gone cheaper, what did you pay for yours? The screw terminals are nice. I got my 1060 and matching 110 tuner for free. I have a friend who owns a plumbing company. I went with him on a service call and spotted the combo setting on a table in the guys garage. I mentioned it and he gave it to me. Said he had wanted to get rid of it for several years but couldnt bring himself to pitch it. Said if I would give it some TLC I could have it. Put a set of lights in the tuner and had TunerX give it a tune up, now I'm going thru the amp. Compared to race cars it's cheap thrills.
 
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