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Recapping the 1060 recaps

$12.51 for one thats 60mm wide x 40mm high, its the 10,000uf 80V TSHA flavor.

I agree with you that it would be nice to have a way to get in these things quick, like a pit crew makes changes!
 
Okay, upgraded the power supply to 10,000uf, upgraded the outputs to 8200uf, upgraded the metal film stack caps to full polypropylene caps, and added a 1k ohm 1W resistor from each output capacitor's negative lead to ground.

I think there is nothing else I can do to this 1060!

Sorry about the quality of the images, I think my external flash was at a 90 degree angle from the unit, it almost looks solarized.

10601.jpg

10602.jpg


Thanks for all your help once again, Echo!
 
After posting those pics I realized there were mylar caps on the filter board, tone control knob board, and loudness switch board so I replaced them all with Panasonic polypropylene caps.

So now I feel I am finally done and listening to it now. I think it sounds fantastic. This one is going back to the office with me monday and staying there permanently!
 
For what its worth, adding a 1K 1W resistor from each negative lead of the output capacitors to chassis ground did not eliminate the pop through the speakers when turning the unit on, in fact, I think it got worse. Maybe because of the increased size of the caps?
 
Not much you can do about power-up, except perhaps to lower the value of the resistor. 1K was a value I pretty much pulled out of my arse. Yes, making the output caps larger doesn't help the situation. Maybe drop that resistor value down to 220 ohms (3W).
 
EchoWars said:
Not much you can do about power-up, except perhaps to lower the value of the resistor. 1K was a value I pretty much pulled out of my arse. Yes, making the output caps larger doesn't help the situation. Maybe drop that resistor value down to 220 ohms (3W).
Click to expand...

Ha! Well I appreciate your honesty. I am a bit too lazy to totally uncase/unbutton this thing again in such a short period of time so I will put it in the queue for another rainy day and get a variety of low-value 3W resistors in the meantime.

I will let you know how it turns out!
 
Why I now do all my rebuilds/recaps of vintage gear in stages.

I am glad you are doing the rebuild incrementally, instead of doing it all at once, like you said at first. I have found that if you (like me) are not a professional, doing too much at once is always problematic. The more parts you upgrade at once, the more things can go wrong, and in my case something is always amiss. I now concentrate on one specific area (like main power caps, power supply caps, preamp board caps, protection/muting circuit, poly film caps, etc, then play the amp for a day or two to listen, and check voltages, bias, etc again.

This way when something goes wrong and the amp shuts down or whatever, I can narrow down the problem (me) to the specific area I just worked on. Since I don't have an o-scope, variac, etc, this keeps me from getting stuck.

Also, I enjoy checking out the improvement of doing a specific mod at a time, or a specific brand of part at a time, so I can gain some knowledge fo ther next build. Usually while recapping, other issues crop up anyway, and/ or I up my mod budget as I always do, and I end up ordering additional parts and waiting again!

I also have a theory, completely unproven, that changing out like all 100 electrolytics in a big receiver at once can cause breakdowns, burn transistors, relays, resistors etc., by itself, since turning on tons of brand new caps at once can only totally stress out the amp.

I suspect that while new caps are forming and breaking in, they emit lots of leakage, surges of DC, noise, or whatever. I base this on the fact that leakage current of electrolytics goes down after the first five minutes or so of operation. When I change to big main output caps/ rectifiers, that is all I do, then I leave the unit on for a few days, like a surgery patient in a recovery room.

Also, for safety reasons and to minimize mega breakdowns, I like to upgrade roughly in this order, -- cleaning and deoxit, smaller Power supply caps, protection circuit/muting, main Power supply caps, PS diodes and power resistors, amp lytic caps, preamp lytic caps, film and bypass caps, resistors, etc.

There is nothing worse than adding tons of super expensive, premium film or oil caps, 6 nines copper wiring, jacks and IEC; WBT speaker posts; stacked film resistors, Black Gates, Mundorf, teflon caps, bypasses everywhere, etc, etc . FIRST (before the PS and protection circuits), then the marginal power supply blows out totally due to some tiny error, and your dream amp is now a boat anchor with $500 of superstar parts, mostly unsalvageable-- soldered into it with the leads clipped off. Don't ask me how I know this......(sniff)
 
Is there any particular reason this thread isn't a sticky? It pretty much answered every question I had about replacing circuits on the 1060, as well as having some pretty good tips and suggestions from some expert techs.
 
I thought the clamps were 35mm? Like I said, I'd choose a cap that fits without any fussing.
 
Ok yes that' right. I was a little afraid to get the thump with the higher uF so I went with the 4700uf and the good ones from Mouser are 30mm. I have vintage AR-3 speakers with the cloth surround woofers. I'm just a tad afraid to thump them.
 
The thump is gonna be there regardless, unless the proper sized resistor is tied from the output of the cap to ground. You can experiment by connecting various sized resistors between the '+' and '-' speaker terminals after the amp is recapped to find the size that eliminates the thump. If 1K didn't do it, I'd try 470 ohm or even 220 ohm. But I suspect that it might be tough or impossible to eliminate completely.
 
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FWIW, the 8200uF I used (shown in the photographs up the thread) were the exact fit for the clamps and I have been listening to this 1060 every day for about 8 hours (its my work stereo) since and it's fabulous!

Thanks again, Glenn, for your guidance!

It's worth mentioning that if you keep the speaker selector pushed in you do not get anywhere near the THUMP you get when you first depress the button.
 
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