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Record Cleaning: Developing the Best Possible Methods

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After slowly collecting all the needed pieces and chemicals I finally built my US cleaner. The results thus far are nothing short of amazing. Now I'm looking to fine-tune the elements of chemistry, process, & equipment. Currently, I'm using the exact chemistry mixture that Rushton Paul laid out however I didn't add IPA (mainly because in my excitement I forgot). I now plan to build a vacuum system for the final step, currently only rinsing with deionized water. I'm choosing to not filter & replace the chemistry once it gets dirty my tank is 1.5 gallons to I'm only processing 2 records at a time. I start with new records and finish with my dirty thrift store finds. Questions;
1 What is the purpose of IPA, my records are sounding fantastic without it after my cleaning
2 I'm on the fence between building my vacuum system with a junk turntable or simply a lazy Susan type turntable to spin manually, is the turntable motor powerful enough to turn while vacuuming? Any tips on this build like material, lessons learned and such would be appreciated.
3 what are you using for the velvet applied to the crevice tool, and how are you glueing it to the crevice tool?
 
Questions;
1 What is the purpose of IPA, my records are sounding fantastic without it after my cleaning
2 I'm on the fence between building my vacuum system with a junk turntable or simply a lazy Susan type turntable to spin manually, is the turntable motor powerful enough to turn while vacuuming? Any tips on this build like material, lessons learned and such would be appreciated.
3 what are you using for the velvet applied to the crevice tool, and how are you glueing it to the crevice tool?

1. It is another solvent that some people like. I don't use it either and I'm still satisfied with the results.
2. I use a BSR to spin the record for wet scrubbing, and an idler drive is strong enough, but it turns the record too fast for vacuuming, even on 16 rpm. I like a VERY SLOW vacuum, so I stop the motor and turn the record by hand.
3. Forgot where it came from but I found some that had sticky adhesive on the back. I cut it into narrow strips and placed it as needed. It works a charm!
 
I have some near mint records that have some marks from the sleeve somehow bonding to the vinyl over the decades. My ultrasonic cleaner can not seem to take them off. Has anyone had success soaking them overnight in soap and water? If so, what label protector did you use? I found some on ebay for around $20 but it's not clear if they are fully waterproof.
 
What were the sleeves that bonded to the vinyl made out of? Paper? Plastic? Vinyl? What are you using to turn the records in your ultrasonic tank? The reason I ask is that if they were paper, I would put the records on your spindle and let them just turn in the fluid at a very low rpm for a few hours. If paper, that should soften things up and likely it falls right off when you do a rinse. This way you don't need to go buying other stuff since you already have what you need. Then, put the records back in the tank and do a regular US cycle for final clean, followed by another rinse with distilled and then vacuum. That would be my protocol should I have this issue. If the sleeves were vinyl, poly etc. then you are likely going to need another approach.....others will chime in no doubt, but this would present challenges because if you put something on there that would remove the stuff stuck to your record, it may indeed also have an unhappy outcome as far as interacting with the vinyl of the record itself. So, hoping you're talking about paper sleeves because the paper, if soaked long enough, should eventually just release.
 
I have some near mint records that have some marks from the sleeve somehow bonding to the vinyl over the decades. My ultrasonic cleaner can not seem to take them off. Has anyone had success soaking them overnight in soap and water? If so, what label protector did you use? I found some on ebay for around $20 but it's not clear if they are fully waterproof.
Have you tried scrubbing? Cavitation doesn't always remove everything. Sometimes it only loosens it.
 
What were the sleeves that bonded to the vinyl made out of? Paper? Plastic? Vinyl?

I think mostly paper . I like your suggestion of letting it spin in the ultrasonic machine for several hours. Seems like a quick and dirty way to test my theory that soaking can help get stuff that the ultrasonic cleaning won't..
 
A brillo pad would do a wonderful job of removing gunk from vinyl with the added "benefit" (?) of adding "surface noise" uniformly to the rest of the lp. :rolleyes:
 
I think mostly paper . I like your suggestion of letting it spin in the ultrasonic machine for several hours. Seems like a quick and dirty way to test my theory that soaking can help get stuff that the ultrasonic cleaning won't..

I have not had such an experience using my US cleaning method and have not had to "soak" anything for any longer than the 15 minute cycle, during which the records turn 5 times while cavitation is taking place.

As for what to scrub them with? I use paint edger pads during my rinse process post US cleaning available at Lowes, Home Depot, even Walmart has them from time to time .

4975c1bd-b05f-4758-9602-7f0932ceabf3_1.fc01842c4becb93f4e831e7565e479ea.jpeg

Start by laying the record flat on a soft towel, then drip distilled water on it avoiding the label. Now, with the edger, go lightly around in circles, emphasizing those areas where you have the debris until you see it lifting off of the vinyl. Should work.....
 
I have not had such an experience using my US cleaning method and have not had to "soak" anything for any longer than the 15 minute cycle, during which the records turn 5 times while cavitation is taking place.

As for what to scrub them with? I use paint edger pads during my rinse process post US cleaning available at Lowes, Home Depot, even Walmart has them from time to time .

View attachment 2102769

Start by laying the record flat on a soft towel, then drip distilled water on it avoiding the label. Now, with the edger, go lightly around in circles, emphasizing those areas where you have the debris until you see it lifting off of the vinyl. Should work.....
Started using this paint pad years ago, Walmart discontinued carrying them. Now they stock a blue colored one, refills not interchangeable, but perform the same. Don't be afraid to use aggressively, I've tried with crap albums, and it will not scratch or mar.
 
After slowly collecting all the needed pieces and chemicals I finally built my US cleaner. The results thus far are nothing short of amazing. Now I'm looking to fine-tune the elements of chemistry, process, & equipment. Currently, I'm using the exact chemistry mixture that Rushton Paul laid out however I didn't add IPA (mainly because in my excitement I forgot). I now plan to build a vacuum system for the final step, currently only rinsing with deionized water. I'm choosing to not filter & replace the chemistry once it gets dirty my tank is 1.5 gallons to I'm only processing 2 records at a time. I start with new records and finish with my dirty thrift store finds. Questions;
1 What is the purpose of IPA, my records are sounding fantastic without it after my cleaning
2 I'm on the fence between building my vacuum system with a junk turntable or simply a lazy Susan type turntable to spin manually, is the turntable motor powerful enough to turn while vacuuming? Any tips on this build like material, lessons learned and such would be appreciated.
3 what are you using for the velvet applied to the crevice tool, and how are you glueing it to the crevice tool?
IPA helps with the drying. Water takes a while to dry and IPA speeds the process.
 
I have not had such an experience using my US cleaning method and have not had to "soak" anything for any longer than the 15 minute cycle, during which the records turn 5 times while cavitation is taking place.

As for what to scrub them with? I use paint edger pads during my rinse process post US cleaning available at Lowes, Home Depot, even Walmart has them from time to time .

Will this work:

https://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-2000874-Premium-Paint-Edger/dp/B0001MQI9E/

It doesn't say what the pads are made of. So I am skeptical.
 
Will this work:

https://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-2000874-Premium-Paint-Edger/dp/B0001MQI9E/

It doesn't say what the pads are made of. So I am skeptical.
Paint pads are not able to get into the grooves to remove dirt. The bristles are shaped like a J with the rounded part down. This promotes paint to cling to the pad. Unfortunately they will not get into the grooves that well. Better than nothing but a good paint brush is much more effective if you want to do a manual cleaning.
 
The Shur-line pads I use have straight, slanted bristles. No J-hook.

Given there appears to be different versions of these it's probably best to visit a paint store and have look before buying them.
 
Will this work:

https://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-2000874-Premium-Paint-Edger/dp/B0001MQI9E/

It doesn't say what the pads are made of. So I am skeptical.

I'm not sure, but just cruise on down to your local hardware store and you will very likely find the ones shown in my previous post. That is, IF you have a local store.....where are you? Near any larger urban areas? And, Tbox may be right about the bristles.....I believe mine are straight, slanted a bit like Rip says so yeah, have a look before you buy.
 
Paint pads are not able to get into the grooves to remove dirt. The bristles are shaped like a J with the rounded part down. This promotes paint to cling to the pad. Unfortunately they will not get into the grooves that well. Better than nothing but a good paint brush is much more effective if you want to do a manual cleaning.

Which paint brush is recommended for vinyl? I don't mind some more "manual" labor if it means cleaner vinyl..
 
The Shur-line pads I use have straight, slanted bristles. No J-hook.

Given there appears to be different versions of these it's probably best to visit a paint store and have look before buying them.
You need to look at them with a 50 or better times magnifier to see them.
 
You need to look at them with a 50 or better times magnifier to see them.
I can do one better....a USB microscope . Don't know the magnification but it has to be more than 50x. Slight mushrooming is evident, probably from when the strands were cropped. At this price I wouldn't expect feathered ends...

21-01-20 19:14:50.png

The one caveat I've heard of with these paint pads is that they shed. This might be a problem with wand type vacuum systems but it shouldn't be if the scrub is followed by a dip in a US tank.
 
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