Rectifier Tube
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Pio1980
AK Member
Get a fresh strong one. Cdx of other tubes matter as well.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
mroboto
Super Member
You can also buy a WZ34 Copper cap from Weber Speakers http://www.tedweber.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=copper+cap
8-pin Copper Cap. Replaces GZ34/5AR4. Vdrop: 17V @ Imax: 225ma
8-pin Copper Cap. Replaces GZ34/5AR4. Vdrop: 17V @ Imax: 225ma
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The rectifier produces the plate voltage, which all of the tubes require to work. I don't get into the whole " rectifier sound" thing, but it needs to be in good working shape or things will not run properly. If its weak, the voltages will sag and stuff won't sound right. If yours tests good, I'd run it.
Opinions vary greatly on what to get, but I'm cheap so the last 3 5AR4's I've bought have all been the Sovtek ones. They seem to work OK in things that do not beat the snot out of them. SS rectifiers are an option, but if the voltages of the components aren't up to the task it can be a bad idea. Solid state rectifiers will switch on immediately, so there will be higher voltages available for a time than would normally be seen with a slow warmup 5AR4. Swapping those out can blow up coupling caps and power supply filters if they cannot deal with the increased voltage until the output tubes warm up.
Opinions vary greatly on what to get, but I'm cheap so the last 3 5AR4's I've bought have all been the Sovtek ones. They seem to work OK in things that do not beat the snot out of them. SS rectifiers are an option, but if the voltages of the components aren't up to the task it can be a bad idea. Solid state rectifiers will switch on immediately, so there will be higher voltages available for a time than would normally be seen with a slow warmup 5AR4. Swapping those out can blow up coupling caps and power supply filters if they cannot deal with the increased voltage until the output tubes warm up.
2string1
Super Member
So you think any good GZ34, NOS or New Production tubes are equal in what they do and doesn't do a thing to change the sound...
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The new ones blow up in applications that abuse them. Dyna ST-70 owners hate them, but those things have poorly designed power supplies that ask too much of the rectifier. In something that doesn't do that, they should hold up OK. I've got a pair in my Bogen 225, and one in my Fisher 600. The Fisher hasn't had many hours on it, but based on the power supply design in it and the Bogen, I expect those tubes ought to last a very long time. I also just can't bring myself to spend 100 bucks a pop on an old production rectifier tube. Even if an old production one does sound better, I doubt its 5x better than my sub-$20 Russian tube produces and its not likely to last 5x longer.
mroboto
Super Member
I bought my 5U4GB and 5Y3 in lot when i see a good offer on ebay, mostly NOS or tested like new.
Also have WU4GB and WY3GT from Weber.
Sometimes hard to hear a difference between the SS Weber ant the tubes.
But my NOS RCA 5Y3GT lasted for 3 years, Weber copper cap is for life...
Also have WU4GB and WY3GT from Weber.
Sometimes hard to hear a difference between the SS Weber ant the tubes.
But my NOS RCA 5Y3GT lasted for 3 years, Weber copper cap is for life...
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well, those are very different tubes. a 5Y3 is rated for much lower current than a 5U4GB is, and without looking at the datasheet I believe its got more voltage drop. Even if thats not so, I'd definitely lay money on it having a different voltage drop. Change tube types, and you're extremely likely to hear a difference. Within a given tube type though, those changes should be vastly smaller.
Used within their limits, most vacuum rectifiers last an extremely long time. I pulled an original out of my Pilot SA-260 that still tested OK. Wasn't amazing, but it was entirely serviceable. It happened to test weaker than the other one, and it was a different brand so I fished through my box until I found a mate in strength and brand. The old Pilot rectifier went into the box of usable tubes though. I've got original rectifiers in some of my 1920s radios that still work fine. My RCA Radiola 18 from 1928 sports an original 80 rectifier, which is what the 5Y3 was based on.
I've got no particular objection to solid state rectifiers. I'd toss a pair of silicon diodes and a resistor in place of some stupid expensive rectifier tube in a heartbeat. I only caution that simply plugging one in to gear without knowing about that higher initial voltage can end badly. With proper component selection its not at all an issue.
Used within their limits, most vacuum rectifiers last an extremely long time. I pulled an original out of my Pilot SA-260 that still tested OK. Wasn't amazing, but it was entirely serviceable. It happened to test weaker than the other one, and it was a different brand so I fished through my box until I found a mate in strength and brand. The old Pilot rectifier went into the box of usable tubes though. I've got original rectifiers in some of my 1920s radios that still work fine. My RCA Radiola 18 from 1928 sports an original 80 rectifier, which is what the 5Y3 was based on.
I've got no particular objection to solid state rectifiers. I'd toss a pair of silicon diodes and a resistor in place of some stupid expensive rectifier tube in a heartbeat. I only caution that simply plugging one in to gear without knowing about that higher initial voltage can end badly. With proper component selection its not at all an issue.
2string1
Super Member
So does and old production rec sound better? I'm willing to spend a 100 bucks to keep my vintage sound and look original... I would be curious what the X-202 came with... No responce from the Fisher forum...
jaymanaa
RIP 1961-2018
I've get it a 90% chance it came with a Mullard, but if that's the case, it shouldn't be worn out unless it has an unusually high number of hours on it. Guys that talk about "hearing" rectifier differences are usually talking about SET amps running GZ32s or mercury vapor tubes like the 83. There may be some guys that can hear it, but not my old ears. Now going to SS and doing some tweaking that can go with it, can make the amp an entirely different beast.
Sprags
Well-Known Member
A solid state Weber rectifier is the most reliable rectifier. I use one in my VTA ST-120. Works flawlessly.
Sprags
Well-Known Member
If you want to go with a good quality new rectifier the Genelex Gold Lion tubes are nice anf you don't need to spend $100.
2string1
Super Member
So what is more realiable a good NOS or new production?
2string1
Super Member
The web site says"FOR USE IN GUITAR AMPS. Not designed for use with HIFI tube amps, tube radios, etc".
