Rectifier Tube
- Thread starter 2string1
- Start date
I used to worry that if too many recommendations for the 5V3A and 5AU4 started showing up on the various forums, that the price would escalate and there would be no more bargains for the DIY tube guys. Well, it has been years since I started to use the 5V3A/5AU4, and I am not the only one who has been outspoken about their brute force reliability, but the price is still about $10 - $15 per tube. And, naturally, I already have a lifetime supply. There is only one caveat regarding these tubes: they require almost 4A of filament current, so an amp like the ST70 that has a power transformer already stressed to the point of combustion can not use them. Another forum regular suggests that if converting to 5V3A/5AU4 the filament voltage should be checked and if it is above 5V you are all set. If it is below 5V then the PT is stressed. The 5AR4 looks like a toy next to the 5V3/5AU4.
jaymanaa
RIP 1961-2018
There's always the 3DG4 if you want robust value.
http://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/093/3/3DG4.pdf
http://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/093/3/3DG4.pdf
2string1
Super Member
I dont't want a substitute! I want exactly what came in it. Brand that is. This X-202 is a treasure to me and I want it as original as I can get it. It is pristine... Thats why I asked,does anyone know what came in them... I'm also wondering what they may have used for power tubes... I bought this and it has been completly retubed with all new production tubes. What a bummer... My plan is to retube it with all NOS just like it came new...
sKiZo
Hates received: 92644 43.20°N 85.50°W
Oh, well then ... never mind. For me, it's all about the sound, which is why I "upgraded" my amp with an original production Mullard GZ37 vice ANY 5AR4.
PS ... on the warning that's now posted at the Weber site ... that's always been the case, but they just did a redesign and added it to all the copper cap listings. Wonderful world of liability and all that crud.
If you've been using a WZ34 (or better yet, a WZ68) as a 5AR4 substitute without any problems, you're better off as they start slower with less surge than the WS1 ... or use the WS1, and add a thermistor to the AC line in.
Luck on your search, but be aware that a lot of the NOS original tubes are going for ridiculous prices. My GZ37 was $100, and it was a real deal. Then again, they're pretty bulletproof and will definitely outlast the new stuff.
PS ... I see you're not a subscriber, so not sure what all you got for search tools. Just found this ... seems to say there IS no such thing as a definitive original tube set, as they used what was available and apparently weren't all that consistent on re-branding anyway.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=640952
PS ... on the warning that's now posted at the Weber site ... that's always been the case, but they just did a redesign and added it to all the copper cap listings. Wonderful world of liability and all that crud.
If you've been using a WZ34 (or better yet, a WZ68) as a 5AR4 substitute without any problems, you're better off as they start slower with less surge than the WS1 ... or use the WS1, and add a thermistor to the AC line in.
Luck on your search, but be aware that a lot of the NOS original tubes are going for ridiculous prices. My GZ37 was $100, and it was a real deal. Then again, they're pretty bulletproof and will definitely outlast the new stuff.
PS ... I see you're not a subscriber, so not sure what all you got for search tools. Just found this ... seems to say there IS no such thing as a definitive original tube set, as they used what was available and apparently weren't all that consistent on re-branding anyway.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=640952
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vwoodrum11
New Member
I have a updated Magnavox 9302 stand alone that has an Amperex 5u4GB that came with it when I bought it. I tried a NOS Rca and didn't like it as much, then I tried a NOS Sylvania and it had a little more bass but the mid's and high's were a little more in the background. I prefer the Amperex out of these 3 that I tested as I could here a difference. Just my 2 cents.
2string1
Super Member
I'm not sure why you say this "Oh, well then ... never mind. For me, it's all about the sound, which is why I "upgraded" my amp with an original production Mullard GZ37" I said earlier,I'll probably go with a NOS Mullard.
2string1
Super Member
So the majority of you think the brand of rectifiers does change the sound... I've never cared for Mullard 6922's or 12AX7's. I always thought they were mushy and to warm. Now I have second thoughts on the Mullard rectifier... Fun you say...
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jaymanaa
RIP 1961-2018
We must have similar ears, Mullard small signal tubes in general are way to warm for me, esp. the 12AX7. Teles are to bright most of the time, but do work in some circuits, but I will usually go with a BB every chance I get. I never say people can't hear things, or differences in things because how would I know what they hear? I know I can't tell the difference between a Mullard 5AR4 or an Amperex metal ringed one, for whatever that's worth. There's a lot of diversity in this hobby. Some folks will swear that the fuse and power cords are part of the signal path. I myself, will go as far to say an amp is nothing more than a precision regulated power supply. As long as that rectifier is making plenty of voltage and current, that's it's job in totality. I like SS rectifiers on custom builds because I feel they don't sag or vary voltage as much as tubes can and they can also make for a quieter supply all the way around. A SS choke input supply is about as quiet as is gets as far as I've heard, and they can be black hole quiet.
Sorry: I thought reliability was one of the relevant parameters...
In that case any of the vingate 5AR4 tubes will be fine. I like the GE with copper plates which was USA made so definitely a possibility as to what it might have come with originally. Unfortunately they are somewhat rare.
2string1
Super Member
Sure would be nice if someone had a Fisher Executive X-202 with original tubes. I would like to put mine back to the way it came... I would like to know what country the power and rectifier tubes came from...Holland,Germany,Russia,ect... I don't like using new production tubes...
jaymanaa
RIP 1961-2018
No way to know that for sure. Fisher got tubes re-branded from multiple suppliers who also got tubes re-branded from multiple suppliers. I'd say 85% of the old Fisher stuff that's been through here had Mullards in it originally, and the rest, Telefunken.
pilotputz
Super Member
It probably did come originally with a Mullard.
But anybody that tells you they can hear the difference between two properly functioning rectifier tubes is yanking your chain.
If you feel the need to spend 5 times the money for a Mullard, ebay has plenty to sell you.
But the fact of the matter is that a 20 dollar Sovtek will perform AND SOUND as good as a Mullard.
There is something to the hardiness of Mullard 5ar4s. They last a long time. But probably not 5 times as long as a Sovtek.
But anybody that tells you they can hear the difference between two properly functioning rectifier tubes is yanking your chain.
If you feel the need to spend 5 times the money for a Mullard, ebay has plenty to sell you.
But the fact of the matter is that a 20 dollar Sovtek will perform AND SOUND as good as a Mullard.
There is something to the hardiness of Mullard 5ar4s. They last a long time. But probably not 5 times as long as a Sovtek.
Will they run fine in place of a 5v3? Would reduce the stress on the transformer correct Because instead of 3.8 they're pulling 3 A. If the transformer was rated at 5V, 3.8A., would one be OK to prolong the life of the transformer and would I hear a sound difference ? Thanks
