Brett a
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Oh right, the metric system.....Millimeters.
Rek-O-Kut Rondine Jr. L-37 Restoration Begins.
- Thread starter Brett a
- Start date
Brett a
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So the main bearing parts have cleaned up pretty nicely so far. The thing will spin a very long time.
Looks like years of resting on a ball bearing have caused a little divot.
You can see one of the old dry and cracked grommet in this shot.
I think I could still work on shining these up more.
.
Looks like years of resting on a ball bearing have caused a little divot.
You can see one of the old dry and cracked grommet in this shot.
I think I could still work on shining these up more.
.
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Brett a
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Brett a
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I just glued this up. I had exactly the right amount of extra material around the make a "working" plinth--something decent to have it in while I work through the learning curve.
It's made from (top to bottom)
2 layers of 3/4" Home Depot birch plywood (I see what they say about the voids)
4 Layers of 3/4" MDF
1 layer 1/2" MDF to cap the bottom
I didn't figure an arm board into this. I hope that doesn't come 'round to bite me in the ass.
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CharlieWhite
Active Member
Looking good, when it comes time for mounting a tonearm you can just drill a hole from the bottom slightly larger then the hole need for the tonearm. Just make sure you don't go all the way through to the top.
Looking forward to seeing more pics, Chuckles
Looking forward to seeing more pics, Chuckles
Brett a
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I just used basic wood glue (lots of it) and clamped it between scrap boards using bar clamps.
Last night, I glued it up it in two sections; the top three layers and the bottom three. Today I cut the motor hole in the separate sections then glued them together and capped the bottom with a 1/2 MDF.
I'll likely trim it out with painted poplar or MDF because I don't much care for the look of the exposed layers.
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Brett a
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Me too.
Of course it will depend on the arm I end up using.
I'm certain whatever challenge it presents will be surmountable.
Brett a
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I figure, if i need to, I can build it up another layer or two with an armboard cut out. Or I could drill up from the bottom with the drill press at work. Or even cut that left third of the plinth right off, modify it, and reconnect it using the separation as an isolation benefit (like I've seen in some plinth designs)
Or I could not mount the arm at all, but just sit next to it holding the arm real steady while it tracks across the record.
:scratch2:
Brett a
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I don't know if jigs are available for the arms I'm considering, however, I will know the prescribed distance from the spindle to mount the arm as well as the diameter of the bore. Drilling up from the bottom would just be one way to run the cable out.
But I've decided to bore out a void at the arm mounting location and re-cap the plinth with another sheet of 1/2 birch ply with an armboard to cover the void like kind of like this (only a lot more crude):
This picture is from this excellent site:
http://www.soundfountain.com/amb/sp10plinth.html
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Brett a
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Thanks Dave. I think the pictures make it look a bit nicer than it does in real life. I'm thinking of ways to square the outside walls without cutting them back. I found the really "drifted" during glue-up.
The arm I found cheap. It's from a Pioneer PL-51. I determined the mounting distance over at Vinyl Engine. The arm's effective length was listed in the specs for the PL-51. Then I used their arm spec calculator to find the mounting distance. (202.14 mm spindle to pivot)
All I need to do now is wire it up w/ a set of patch cords!
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