I wasn't expecting it to unseat the well tempered by any stretch, but it'll be interesting to see if the rim drive "sound" will be something that will provide something the well tempered can't,
Ahhh. I get it.
And I think part of my answer (now that i think about it) was that it's really difficult to tell where this ROK is heading-or even quite what it offers today- as the tonearm/cartridge/phono amp are pretty uninvolving. They don't resolve the level of detail or present on open enough soundstage to
really understand what's spinning on that platter.
That said, I do believe that every once-in-a-while, I get a hit of more solid, sharp leading edges especially with percussion and piano. I also suspect the drive mechanism somehow allows for better/clearer resolution of timbres. And i can really trust that sustained notes are stable.
So I guess, yes, the ROK has a sharper attack then the Well Tempered. And what I'm excited by is the prospect of what the ROK might reveal once I have a better arm/cartridge on it, (and maybe eventually a better phono amp).
It's honestly just matter of time before i make an armboard to mount the WT arm on the ROK. It'll be interesting to see how much the suspended silicone bath arm isolates the arm wand from motor/plinth vibration. Think about it; no mechanical connections, just a pool of thick liquid.
:scratch2:
The noise is coming from either the motor itself coupled to the plate that has the bearing and then to the spindle and platter,or via the rubber idler wheels.
The motor is rubber-mounted as is the carriage for the idler wheels. So, as Redboy said, changing these out will make it quieter. (along with getting the idlers themselves restored).
The motor, when spinning alone, is silent. The platter, when spinning free is also silent. It's when you press the idler wheel against the platter that the motor vibration really comes on.
And I noticed this weekend that a lot of vibration also transfers from the motor to the top plate via the start/stop knob. You start it by loosening this knob a quarter turn and sliding it to the left (for 33 rpm). This actually moves the motor over to press the left idler against the inside of the platter and simultaneously switches on the motor.
Then when you screw the knob back down to lock it into place, it couples the motor to the top plate and transfers a lot of vibration with it. i bought a couple of rubber washers at Home Depot to help cushion this. We'll see if it does anything.
Here's a picture from earlier in the thread:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=313142&stc=1&d=1322232760