Rek-O-Kut Turntables - ROK

[mikepick]

It might do to work your way through gradually to eliminate rumble. Check / replace thrust bearing, oil spindle (I used light sewing machine oil), check / replace grommets, and you can also dismantle and clean up / grease the topside idler mount pieces as needed.

I had one idler replaced with a rebuilt original, it was an improvement, but in the end the new delrin idler made the biggest difference for rumble. They are kind of pricy, and its hard to know what you are getting.

Also, don't be like me and casually drop the platter in the spindle well. Do it gently or you may damage the thrust bearing.

 

[k600r]

Thank you all for recommendations on rebuilding, setup, etc. sometimes I get ahead of myself on a new project and want it all done ASAP but I need to take it one step at a time.
I plan on getting the basics done first, clean and lube the motor, new grommets if needed, clean or replace bearing, new oil and idler wheels if necessary.
Eventually I would like a more modern arm like a Jelco replacement so I can actually use another cart and adjust VTA and so forth but the Micropoise arm on it now I’ll give a go first.
Thanks for all the knowledge everyone is willing to share.

 

[adnick]

Thank you all for recommendations on rebuilding, setup, etc. sometimes I get ahead of myself on a new project and want it all done ASAP but I need to take it one step at a time.
I plan on getting the basics done first, clean and lube the motor, new grommets if needed, clean or replace bearing, new oil and idler wheels if necessary.
Eventually I would like a more modern arm like a Jelco replacement so I can actually use another cart and adjust VTA and so forth but the Micropoise arm on it now I’ll give a go first.
Thanks for all the knowledge everyone is willing to share.[/QUOTE

That Micropoise arm is a very fine arm, the design concepts can still be seen in many modern arms… change the headshell( +/- weight ) & adjust the rear weight, and change the effective mass. Only downside is the cost of headshells

 

[k600r]

Hi Adnick,
Yes the Micropoise arm looks decent for it’s time with modern type serttings. The manual shows how to set it up but your right about mass of the arm and cart, pretty high with 3 gram and up VTF, surely a quick way to ruin records I would think.
So what headshell would you get for the arm to lower mass? Have you had any experience with this particular arm and any recommendations?
Could use the help. Thanks for reaching out.

 

[twiiii]

They were prtty bad even on a good day. We had a couple at the radio station and we put filters on them to cut out all the LF noise they made. We never used them in the broadcast studios, Only in production studio for making on air spots. I'd rather have a TD 124 and they were noisy also. I'll take an Empire 598 any time, or even better yet a TD 125. If you want to try a SL 1200 early model make sure you use a tube phono pre-amp to smooth out some of the jitter of the early 1200's. I'll stick with belt drive untill I can afford big money for the new SL 1000 and a SME MK V arm. Or better yet as SME model 15 A with arm.

 

[adnick]

The ROK headshells come in at least 3 different weights, here’s 2 that I’m not currently using.

Note that 1 of them has original add on weights.





Currently use 2 versions of the Micropoise arm and each one is tracking under 2 grams, but if I change to a heavy headshell then it takes an added weight on the rear of the arm to track under 2 grams. Have a 3rd version that’s not in use, but that’s another story

Mainly run vintage cartridges, but have used everything from an Empire 108 to a Shure V15III with very good results.

VR
Andy

 

[limberpine]

This is a great thread and I haven't read it all, but i wondered what people thought of the ROK T-12 and T-43? Seems like those were their highest end broadcast tables back in the 50's? They also seem quite hard to find, but what I'm wondering, with all the other models out there would it be worth the hunt and wait to keep an eye out for one of these T-12 or T-43?

Thanks for having this thread, its very cool to be able to see all the different projects and learn more about the ROK and its abilities.

 

[adnick]

This is a great thread and I haven't read it all, but i wondered what people thought of the ROK T-12 and T-43? Seems like those were their highest end broadcast tables back in the 50's? They also seem quite hard to find, but what I'm wondering, with all the other models out there would it be worth the hunt and wait to keep an eye out for one of these T-12 or T-43?

Thanks for having this thread, its very cool to be able to see all the different projects and learn more about the ROK and its abilities.

Like you a TR12 was my goal….

It took me a couple of years to find a TR 12H 33 & 45, but they exist more so in the 33 & 78 and I’d make sure it’s an H version. There are other models like the 16” version that’s the same design….

Don’t discount the Rondine Deluxe, they have the same H motor, they are fine tables when refreshed.

VR
Andy

 

[limberpine]

Like you a TR12 was my goal….

It took me a couple of years to find a TR 12H 33 & 45, but they exist more so in the 33 & 78 and I’d make sure it’s an H version. There are other models like the 16” version that’s the same design….

Don’t discount the Rondine Deluxe, they have the same H motor, they are fine tables when refreshed.

VR
Andy

Why would you make sure its the H version? And what is the difference between the H and non-H versions? How would one discern that its an H version as well?

Thanks!

 

[adnick]

Hysteresis motors, extremely stable speed and ultra quiet, they are unaffected by voltage drift and most of the old ones will have the “coffee can” Ashland motors.

I’ve not seen a TR 12 nor T 43, without an H motor, but the operation manuals say they exist….

VR
Andy

 

[limberpine]

Hysteresis motors, extremely stable speed and ultra quiet, they are unaffected by voltage drift and most of the old ones will have the “coffee can” Ashland motors.

I’ve not seen a TR 12 nor T 43, without an H motor, but the operation manuals say they exist….

VR
Andy

I see so the non H has the 4-pole constant speed induction motors, which aren't as good because of their noise, speed stability and potential for voltage drift? I wonder why they put a less than ideal motor in the more professional TT's they sold?

 

[k600r]

I removed the Black Widow and Grado wooden tonearms from my B-12 and added a Denon DA-50 on the back of the plinth. Because of how awkward it is to reach the cuing lever on hte back of the plinth, I turned it 90 degrees so the side is now the front. I put a Grado XF1 in the tonearm and now have the best sound I've ever had from any source in my system.
Dave

 

[k600r]

I removed the Black Widow and Grado wooden tonearms from my B-12 and added a Denon DA-50 on the back of the plinth. Because of how awkward it is to reach the cuing lever on hte back of the plinth, I turned it 90 degrees so the side is now the front. I put a Grado XF1 in the tonearm and now have the best sound I've ever had from any source in my system.
Dave

Nice looking table you have but wondering if you might answer a couple of questions I have. I’m restoring, redoing whichever you want to call it, a Rondine 34 L jr. it has a Micropoise arm with it but I was planning to put a Jelco on it as some say it’s a good match and no problems with current carts and adjustments.
Do you have rubber footers or any type of feet on your plinth? Mine came with rubber ball type feet that fit into drilled holes under the plinth. The problem is I’m missing 2 of them and wondered if the sound will suffer without any damping as the table really isn’t that heavy.
Second, how was the Black Widow arm on yours? A good match or an arm you didn’t want to deal with. I’ve always liked the arm myself and was thinking of installing one as a second arm. Any thoughts from your end?

 

[hurdy_gurdyman]

Nice looking table you have but wondering if you might answer a couple of questions I have. I’m restoring, redoing whichever you want to call it, a Rondine 34 L jr. it has a Micropoise arm with it but I was planning to put a Jelco on it as some say it’s a good match and no problems with current carts and adjustments.
Do you have rubber footers or any type of feet on your plinth? Mine came with rubber ball type feet that fit into drilled holes under the plinth. The problem is I’m missing 2 of them and wondered if the sound will suffer without any damping as the table really isn’t that heavy.
Second, how was the Black Widow arm on yours? A good match or an arm you didn’t want to deal with. I’ve always liked the arm myself and was thinking of installing one as a second arm. Any thoughts from your end?

Originally I didn't have rubber feet on mine, but recently put some between my upper and lower plinth (it's a two piece plinth. They seem to work OK, as I don't get feedback even at ridiculous volume levels.
The Black Widow arm worked well with really high compliance cartridges. I used it with an ADC-LXM cartridge. It worked well. The only reason I took the arm off is because on a nik-knack shelf fell off unto the arm wand, snapping it in two. The Black Widow was too light for my Grado carts. They were very unhappy in that arm. The arm I replaced it with, a Denon DA-50, works great with the Denon arm.
Dave

 

[k600r]

Gee to bad about the Black Wifiw arm, those knic knacks get you every time. So you think something under the plinth is helpful as you probably wouldn’t have used it otherwise if there wasn’t some improvement. I’ll have to see if I can locate a set of footers, original if possible but if not lots of stuff I could use in its place I guess.
I was going to setup the Jelco with a Denon DL-103, something decent and pretty cheap to see how it sounds. I can always upgrade the cart if all is working out.
What Grado are you running? I’ve heard a few models but nothing that caught my fancy. Might have been a number of things but it didn’t make me want to go out a buy one. I might have to listen again on one that’s setup right and see if my mind gets changed on those carts.
Thanks for responding, appreciate it.

 

[limberpine]

Hysteresis motors, extremely stable speed and ultra quiet, they are unaffected by voltage drift and most of the old ones will have the “coffee can” Ashland motors.

I’ve not seen a TR 12 nor T 43, without an H motor, but the operation manuals say they exist….

VR
Andy

Which motor is this?

 

[hurdy_gurdyman]

Gee to bad about the Black Wifiw arm, those knic knacks get you every time. So you think something under the plinth is helpful as you probably wouldn’t have used it otherwise if there wasn’t some improvement. I’ll have to see if I can locate a set of footers, original if possible but if not lots of stuff I could use in its place I guess.
I was going to setup the Jelco with a Denon DL-103, something decent and pretty cheap to see how it sounds. I can always upgrade the cart if all is working out.
What Grado are you running? I’ve heard a few models but nothing that caught my fancy. Might have been a number of things but it didn’t make me want to go out a buy one. I might have to listen again on one that’s setup right and see if my mind gets changed on those carts.
Thanks for responding, appreciate it.

I'm currently using a XF1, which is a vintage 70's model approximating a silver/gold of today. I also have a G-1+ for a backup, just in case. Rumor has it that the Grado carts made during the heyday of vinyl were made to a better standard than the new ones today.
Dave

 

[Selmerdave]

Which motor is this?

That's one affectionately referred to as the "death cube", not exactly sure why, but it is not one of the Ashland hysteresis motors. Nothing wrong with it though...

 

[Pio1980]

That's one affectionately referred to as the "death cube", not exactly sure why, but it is not one of the Ashland hysteresis motors. Nothing wrong with it though...

Borg cube, the Ashland is an out-rotor hysteresis synchronous motor, iirc.

 

[limberpine]

That's one affectionately referred to as the "death cube", not exactly sure why, but it is not one of the Ashland hysteresis motors. Nothing wrong with it though...

It looks like from what I have seen its harder to service? Because it doesn't have the spouts like the H motors do for oiling. I wonder why its called the "Borg Cube". I do see on some of the promotional material that it was less expensive than the models with the H motors.