Replacement tweeters for Time Windows?

[Foneman13]

Hi folks?

Any suggestions as to what I should replace the blown tweeters in my first series DCM Time Windows with?

Thanks!

Foneman13

 

[KingBubba]

Just checking. Did you pull them and test the tweeter for continuity with an ohm meter to eliminate the possibility that the problem is in the crossover?

 

[mhardy6647]

The original Philips domes shouldn't be hard to find fairly inexpensively on the used market.

 

[ScramMan2]

There is a thread here on that. Scan for DCM.

I think it's VIFA from Parts Express.

 

[Fast_Eddie]

The later ones use a Vifa. The early ones are the Philips. I'd look on e bay.

 

[BrassTeacher]

A cheap way to get the Philips tweeters, that will require no crossover mods, is grab a cheap pair of B&O CX-50 speakers off the normal auction site that the woofers need refoaming.

You will need to swap the DCM tweeter's faceplates with the B&O, so be careful if/when the voice coil and dome pop loose.

The B&O tweeter domes will be fabric, as opposed to mylar, but Gordon assured me the response would be even smoother than the mylar dome. Based on the sound of the pair of DCM QED that I just did a tweeter swap on, I'd say Gordon was correct.

 

[Fast_Eddie]

^^ that's a great tip!

 

[ToddyAudio]

Is its the clear mylar dome #AD 0162 T8 thats made in Belgium? I have 1 used one left in my spare driver collection, PM me and you can have it for the cost of shipping (around $5)

 

[whoaru99]

Madisound also may have a suggestion for a similar or upgrade replacement.

 

[Foneman13]

Thanks for all the feedback....I'll report back as I move on with this project - based on everything I have picked up in this and another thread, I am going to try and pull the woofers , check the XO'x and tweeters

 

[GordonW]

Is its the clear mylar dome #AD 0162 T8 thats made in Belgium? I have 1 used one left in my spare driver collection, PM me and you can have it for the cost of shipping (around $5)

That is correct. His tweeter may have a different faceplate (they made round, square and various rectangular faceplates), but the AD0162 is exactly the same mylar dome.

Sonically, shouldn't matter if it's an early AD0162 (clear dome) or late model AD0162 (black dome)... as long as it's the shiny mylar, it should work well.

Of course, as BrassTeacher said in his comments referring to my eariler comments , the AD0163 fabric dome is, IMHO, a good upgrade for these. Smoother response (it doesn't have the breakup resonance between 10-20KHz like the AD0162), with exactly the same sensitivity and low-end response...

Regards,
Gordon.