WaynerN
Addicted Member
I have an SL1210MK5 (2010) model and one of the last production models....no hum. My 1200MK2 is a 2007 model, again, no hum.
Restoring a pretty old -and dirt- Technics SL-1200Mk2
- Thread starter morfeora
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I have an SL1210MK5 (2010) model and one of the last production models....no hum. My 1200MK2 is a 2007 model, again, no hum.
Hi Rodolfo,
I looked through the caps that I have on hand and will be able to provide you with pretty much everything that you need. There are a couple of "may fit, must check" positions. The caps are all Panasonic FM and Wima MKS2, so, all very good quality.
The ones that need to be checked:
For C1 470µF/50v I have a FM 470µF/50v but is is radial (shouldn't be a problem, just mount it like the existing cap) but it has a diameter of 12mm, so you would have to check if 12mm can be squeezed in.
For C112 & C212 4.7µF/50v & 3.3µF/50v I have some nice Wima MKS2 film caps but they are 13mm high. So, again, you would have to check to see if they can possibly fit.
For all of the other caps I can send you some MKS2 and FM. In some positions the cap voltage rating is higher than original but that is not a problem.
Since I am going to be sending a cd player to you soon I can just bundle it all together. Let me know what you think.
Cheers,
James
I looked through the caps that I have on hand and will be able to provide you with pretty much everything that you need. There are a couple of "may fit, must check" positions. The caps are all Panasonic FM and Wima MKS2, so, all very good quality.
The ones that need to be checked:
For C1 470µF/50v I have a FM 470µF/50v but is is radial (shouldn't be a problem, just mount it like the existing cap) but it has a diameter of 12mm, so you would have to check if 12mm can be squeezed in.
For C112 & C212 4.7µF/50v & 3.3µF/50v I have some nice Wima MKS2 film caps but they are 13mm high. So, again, you would have to check to see if they can possibly fit.
For all of the other caps I can send you some MKS2 and FM. In some positions the cap voltage rating is higher than original but that is not a problem.
Since I am going to be sending a cd player to you soon I can just bundle it all together. Let me know what you think.
Cheers,
James
cafe latte
Addicted Member
The late models did hum, the shielding on the transformer was not sufficient, mine is one of the very late ones that had high capacitance cables they hum with Grado, I know as mine hummed and researched it and it was a known issue with late model Technics transformers which is why some people relocate the transformer to an external box, I got the Kab psu instead and hum then disappeared, mine also hummed with a Decca before. Your 2010 not humming at all makes no sense as all late Technics hum with Grado.
Chris
Ilikevinyl
Cool Breeze
Yes, it's an excellent upgrade. You'll have many years of enjoyment with your SL-1200MK2!
Yesterday I changed the amount of dampening fluid for my Jelco TS-550S MKII tonearm. Had 3 drops of the dampening fluid in the dampening bowl. Did increase the amount of bass, but took away some of the mid range. Cleaned out the dampening bowl and started over. This time I only used 2 drops of the dampening fluid. Now, have that beautiful detailed mid range back, with the correct amount of bass. Fluid dampening really does make a difference!
morfeora
Active Member
I will be happy to receive this caps from you my friend.
I re-check the height available and I was wrong thinking everything most fit into 13mm, I apologize if I put you in extra work for this mistake.
From the main board to the cover that goes under the platter there is a 20mm gap. I will have plenty of room with the options you have.
About C1: no problem I can figure out a good way to install it.
About C112 & C212 4.7µF/50v & 3.3µF/50v these are electrolytic polarized, can we just changed with this no polar Wima MKS2 film caps?
Cheers,
Rodolfo
morfeora
Active Member
Hi Markonesift,
This approach is with spinning problems, with a non-spinning at all turntable would you have the same approach? I have being fallowing and idea that I read some place around here AK about restoration and recapping... "do not recap malfunctioning equipment". But I also accept your point, I am going to change these caps. I am not an expert and this is the first turntable I try to fix... just a beginner here.
cheers,
Rodolfo
OK! I'll gather everything together. Good to know about the amount of clearance, that gives a bit of flexibility.
Concerning the film caps, yes, they can be used with no problems. I no longer even buy electrolytic caps with values under 10µF, I just use MKS2 film caps. For our needs and uses they can be considered "forever caps", they will never change their values over time like an elco will.
Interesting that the replacement parts list shows 470µF/50v for C1 but the schematic shows 1000µF/50v. This is the main filter cap for the power supply. I am going to look again at which values of United Chemi-Con KYB that I have on hand. They would be better suited to this position than an FM or FC. Not that those caps will be bad, just that a KYB would be better because they have a very ripple current value.
Cheers,
James
morfeora
Active Member
James this 1000µF/50v is on a different version of my turntable the circuit seams the same, but components are newer. Mine is labeled as mk2 service manual (M/MC) "Vintage Technics" in Vinyl Engine: https://www.vinylengine.com/ve_down...ics/technics_sl-1200_mkii_m_mc_service_en.pdf
I don't know if a bigger cap in my version will be ok. What do you think?
This is wonderful! Thank you for this information James, is new to me.
This is great Steve, I am still trying to make me an idea of how this damping system works and to know what actually is, but I am very interested now, I wll be studying about it.Yes, it's an excellent upgrade. You'll have many years of enjoyment with your SL-1200MK2!
Yesterday I changed the amount of dampening fluid for my Jelco TS-550S MKII tonearm. Had 3 drops of the dampening fluid in the dampening bowl. Did increase the amount of bass, but took away some of the mid range. Cleaned out the dampening bowl and started over. This time I only used 2 drops of the dampening fluid. Now, have that beautiful detailed mid range back, with the correct amount of bass. Fluid dampening really does make a difference!
Today I found the proper paint. I thought I was going to be more difficult to find a matching paint to the original but is as simple as "Aluminum" color. Already did a little test and think match perfect with the original.
Close to the middle I spray a little of the new paint to compare, I think is exactly the same.
This weekend will be for painting and cleaning.
Cheers
Rodolfo
Good Morning Rodolfo.
I just got up and am having my first cup of coffee. I am 64 today. 
I think that going up a bit on the main filter cap would be OK, but would not jump to 1000µF. In any case I looked through what I have and the only one that will fit is the Panasonic FM 470µF/50v. A cap specifically made for power supplies (like an UCC KYB) would be more optimum but the FM will do the job. I'll be gathering the caps together today and will post a photo later.
That paint looks like a pretty good match!
Cheers,
James
Btw, we are drinking Colombian coffee today. It's very good.
James
It's very good. James
OK, I have set out a complete set of caps for you, even the ones that you said that you already have. Also, I have a lot of most of them so I threw in a few extras. This should give you a bit of flexibility.
1µF/50v, 6x = MKS2 1µF/63v, 6x.
3.3µF/50v, 1x = MKS2 3.3µF/50v, 1x, 3.3µF/63v, 1x.The 50v is a bit smaller than the 63v, just in case.
4.7µF/50v, 1x = MKS2 4.7µF/50v, 1x.
10µF/16v, 1x = MKS2 10µF/50v, 1x. This cap is a bit large so in case it doesn't fit I'm also including a Panasonic FR 10µF/50v, 3x.
22µF/25v, 1x = FM 22µF/50v, 2x.
33µF/16v, 1x = FM 33µF/35v, 1x.
33µF/25v, 4x = FM 33µF/35v, 5x.
47µF/16v, 1x = FM 47µF/25v, 2x.
100µF/16v, 2x = FM 100µF/25v, 3x.
100µF/25v, 1x = FM 100µF/25v, 1x.
220µF/6.3v, 1x = FM 220µF/10v, 2x.
470µF/50v, 1x = FM 470µF/50v, 1x. FM 680µF/50v, 1x.
Out of curiosity I looked up the ripple current specs of the 470µF FM and compared it to a UCC KYB. To my surprise the FM actually has a better ripple current rating, 2.260mA compared to 1.820mA. So, I would not hesitate to use one of these for the PSU filter cap. In addition the FM and FR are rated at 105°c and a very high 8000 hours, as well as being low ESR. These are very good caps and I have been using them a lot.
And, after looking again I found an FM 680µF/50v. This has a ripple current rating of 3.160mA and has the same 13mm diameter as the 470µF, just longer. So I threw in one of them also just in case.
Cheers,
James
1µF/50v, 6x = MKS2 1µF/63v, 6x.
3.3µF/50v, 1x = MKS2 3.3µF/50v, 1x, 3.3µF/63v, 1x.The 50v is a bit smaller than the 63v, just in case.
4.7µF/50v, 1x = MKS2 4.7µF/50v, 1x.
10µF/16v, 1x = MKS2 10µF/50v, 1x. This cap is a bit large so in case it doesn't fit I'm also including a Panasonic FR 10µF/50v, 3x.
22µF/25v, 1x = FM 22µF/50v, 2x.
33µF/16v, 1x = FM 33µF/35v, 1x.
33µF/25v, 4x = FM 33µF/35v, 5x.
47µF/16v, 1x = FM 47µF/25v, 2x.
100µF/16v, 2x = FM 100µF/25v, 3x.
100µF/25v, 1x = FM 100µF/25v, 1x.
220µF/6.3v, 1x = FM 220µF/10v, 2x.
470µF/50v, 1x = FM 470µF/50v, 1x. FM 680µF/50v, 1x.
Out of curiosity I looked up the ripple current specs of the 470µF FM and compared it to a UCC KYB. To my surprise the FM actually has a better ripple current rating, 2.260mA compared to 1.820mA. So, I would not hesitate to use one of these for the PSU filter cap. In addition the FM and FR are rated at 105°c and a very high 8000 hours, as well as being low ESR. These are very good caps and I have been using them a lot.
And, after looking again I found an FM 680µF/50v. This has a ripple current rating of 3.160mA and has the same 13mm diameter as the 470µF, just longer. So I threw in one of them also just in case.
Cheers,
James
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I see R202 as 10k ohm in the schematic. Yes/no?
morfeora
Active Member
Happy birthday my friend! I tried to make a phone call but never get an answer, could it be that you changed your number? Any way I hope many more years playing with audio electronics and listening music... An at least a few visits more from myselfGood Morning Rodolfo.
Thank you for all this my friend, it will be even more happy to receive this "little" things knowing that come from you and not just form the store... I can feel a lot of happiness around here with all this things to play, the CDP the caps, the turntable! Actually, I am pretty happy already
Those FM caps were mostly the ones I used in my two restorations, my KA-907 and the L07-CII, (I just realized I need to open my preamp and check the room to change the signal path caps for the WIMA, may be you can send them too me too). I read about them here in AK and many say they a very good caps.
I will take your advice on adding those little uF to the PS filter cap.
morfeora
Active Member
Yes! It is a 10K ohm resistor.
Like a lot that you are enjoying a good colombian coffee in your birthday, it's a shame I am no there to share it with you!!
Again... Happy birthday!!
I am at the office now but can't wait to arrive home to do a little sanding to the turntable top and tomorrow apply the painting.
More soon.
Cheers,
Rodolfo
Markoneswift
Quartz locked n ready to rock
When I am dealing with a piece of equipment, like a turntable, which often contains very few caps (compared to an amplifier for example) i will always replace the caps anyway. This is mainly because my of them are small value ratings and often drift enough to effectively stop them functioning. This is especially true where they are used for DC blocking and filter - such as feeding signals into control ICs.
morfeora
Active Member
Very good point, thank you for sharing your perspective, I think is absolutely reasonable... I like it a lot and will take it for myself in the future. Actually I have a Pioneer PL-400 with spinning issues... I will apply your approach with this one too. Thank you!!
Markoneswift
Quartz locked n ready to rock
You're welcome - I find it's always useful to have several different approaches in mind when looking at a problem. It pays to not just leap in - I had a similar experience years ago whilst working on a unit which had no audio output form one amplifier channel. I jumped to conclusions and assumed the STK amplifier pack must be bad. I replaced the STK pack but found the problem was still there - that's when I learned how some capacitors are used to block DC voltage and only pass through AC. One of these little devices (probably a tiny 1uf / 50v or such like) was bad and was blocking the entire audio signal from entering the amp chip. I encountered the same with the Techincs TTs I mentioned - because the ICs rely on receiving waveforms, these are often passed through small value capacitors to filter them. If the caps are bad, there's a bad or missing waveform for the IC to read.
morfeora
Active Member
Well my first attempt to paint the top was a failure:
Until the primer everything was as expected.
But by the time of the aluminum paint I was very tired of my fingers...Who would known this, we really need muscle to paint with aerosol.
And it seems I was too far too... need to be closer. I end up applying to much painting in some parts and in others I was too far and the paint didn't adhere.
In the borders, where I didn't pay too much attention and did not apply too much paint, the finish was perfect! So, now I know that have to be more gentle, only fine layers of painting and having the spray closer to the surface.
After my first frustration I understood what was my mistakes and new sprays are on the way home... I will be trying again soon
cheers,
Rodolfo
Until the primer everything was as expected.
But by the time of the aluminum paint I was very tired of my fingers...Who would known this, we really need muscle to paint with aerosol.
And it seems I was too far too... need to be closer. I end up applying to much painting in some parts and in others I was too far and the paint didn't adhere.
In the borders, where I didn't pay too much attention and did not apply too much paint, the finish was perfect! So, now I know that have to be more gentle, only fine layers of painting and having the spray closer to the surface.
After my first frustration I understood what was my mistakes and new sprays are on the way home... I will be trying again soon
cheers,
Rodolfo
It takes a good bit of practice to get a good finish with spray cans. You have to find the optimal distance, too far and you have the problems that you describe, to close and it will make puddles that run. Buy some extra cans and practice on some pieces of cardboard until you find the right distance and overlap.
Also you have to start spraying before you reach the workpiece and don't stop until you are well past the workpiece. I would probably do the edges first and let them dry before doing the upper flat surfaces. You can use some thin cardstock to hold over areas that you do not want to have overspray on.
You will master this, I know it.
Cheers,
James
Also you have to start spraying before you reach the workpiece and don't stop until you are well past the workpiece. I would probably do the edges first and let them dry before doing the upper flat surfaces. You can use some thin cardstock to hold over areas that you do not want to have overspray on.
You will master this, I know it.
Cheers,
James
Markoneswift
Quartz locked n ready to rock
Key thing to remember is do not spray in an arc - ensure you keep the nozzle / spray at an equal distance throughout your pass across the workpiece. Spraying in an arc will cause runs where you get too close and thin spots when you get too far away.
You could always look into powder coating - not sure if that material is suitable but it would give an awesome finish. Or try vinyl wrapping it........actually would wrapping a turntable in vinyl be some kind of cannibalism??
You could always look into powder coating - not sure if that material is suitable but it would give an awesome finish. Or try vinyl wrapping it........actually would wrapping a turntable in vinyl be some kind of cannibalism??
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