• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Sansui 5000

jnl1105

jnl1105

Active Member
Well I just recently came into possession of this bast of a unit that everything works on except right channel on all 3 channels so I checked everything and opened it up to find a capacitor had been replaced and a 220 ohm resistor blown on a driver board. This unit had toe originals replaced with the F-6013. It is R819 that was blown. I replaced it with
a blue bodied 220rR and tested everything I could think of plugged it in and it blew it again.. Who is family;iar with this driver board to figure out what is causing it?


1738203434879.pngIMG_3475.JPGIMG_3478.JPGIMG_3479.JPGIMG_3480.JPG
 
Register to hide this ad
You are probably best to pull those driver boards out, take note of where each wire goes and rebuild and test components to verify they are still good. Then before plugging them back in I would take a look at your power supply and verify that you have accurate voltage throughout. Your output transistors should also be tested.
 
I would check all the transistors on that driver board as well as the outputs for that channel and go from there. I second the dim bulb tester, that will prevent any further damage. Also that incorrect capacitor is a short waiting to happen. I would at very least insulate the positive lead before the power transformer gets fried.
 
all great advice for sure and already working on it, I am getting a c reading continuity to b and e on that channel so I am quite suspect of the 2SC680 transistor, what is everyone's suggestions on interchange replacement.

I meant to add all my power goes through voltage and wattage controllers and is conditioned, I have meters on everything so I don't think I need a "wattage indicator"
 
Sansuiman said:
That rigged up capacitor...oh my. I'd be very concerned about who serviced this unit previously, and what else they may have done wrong/poorly.
Click to expand...
You need to look at a lot of pictures of Sansui 5000's. This looks just too f...k.d up. Personally I prefer units that have had little previous work, like just replacing the F-1040 boards, provided that tech was competent. In my limited experience the more 'service' a unit has had the more things have been screwed up. Be patient and you will be rewarded, just tread carefully.
 
MJ21196G or MJ21194G, I think. Others will correct if I'm off.
If you search through AK the suggested replacements for the 2SD118 are mentioned. I think you still need to do more research if you're asking that question. Just my A-hole opinion.
Have you found any other ugly crap on that unit?
Full re-cap of both driver boards would not be a bad idea considering you're already in the guts.
 
Last edited:
Mike244 said:
2SD118 : Transition Frequency (ft): 2 MHz
2N3773 : Transition Frequency (ft): 0.2 MHz
Click to expand...

wow I didn't even find that in the ref for the 2n3773

so that would make it unusable correct?
jnl1105 said:
Well I just recently came into possession of this bast of a unit that everything works on except right channel on all 3 channels so I checked everything and opened it up to find a capacitor had been replaced and a 220 ohm resistor blown on a driver board. This unit had toe originals replaced with the F-6013. It is R819 that was blown. I replaced it with
a blue bodied 220rR and tested everything I could think of plugged it in and it blew it again.. Who is family;iar with this driver board to figure out what is causing it?


View attachment 3413623View attachment 3413638View attachment 3413636View attachment 3413634View attachment 3413640
Click to expand...
I am finding the transistor TR804 (2SC680) is reading continuity between CBE only on the bad channel
 
If the transistor is showing continuity through all possible combinations it is bad. That being said I'm not sure how you are measuring/testing it but the 2SC680 transistors could have issues.
 
Guido57 said:
MJ21196G or MJ21194G, I think. Others will correct if I'm off.
If you search through AK the suggested replacements for the 2SD118 are mentioned. I think you still need to do more research if you're asking that question. Just my A-hole opinion.
Have you found any other ugly crap on that unit?
Full re-cap of both driver boards would not be a bad idea considering you're already in the guts.
Click to expand...
I would think that a .2 would be better then a 2 as .2 is down around lower frequency while the 2 is in the higher frequencies for higher speed or radio but its been decades since i learned about this stuff and i have a neurological pathway issue that sometimesm kicks in on my understanding of things...
jnl1105 said:
Well I just recently came into possession of this bast of a unit that everything works on except right channel on all 3 channels so I checked everything and opened it up to find a capacitor had been replaced and a 220 ohm resistor blown on a driver board. This unit had toe originals replaced with the F-6013. It is R819 that was blown. I replaced it with
a blue bodied 220rR and tested everything I could think of plugged it in and it blew it again.. Who is family;iar with this driver board to figure out what is causing it?


View attachment 3413623View attachment 3413638View attachment 3413636View attachment 3413634View attachment 3413640
Click to expand...
I removed the driver board and checked the TR804 transistor and it tested good.
IMG_3489.jpeg

So I followed the r819 path to the TR808 & TR807 (original Toshiba 2SD118) and both npn seemed to test bad as indicated by my transistor tester.
IMG_3484.jpegIMG_3486.jpeg

I then removed one of the working left channel transistors and it tested good (not original but SYL ECG280 but seems to function well)

So it seems the amp transistors all will be replaced as well as all the driver caps to a single new style.. I'll make some adapters for the original mounting frames

AnyoIMG_3484.jpegIMG_3486.jpegne else with some ideas give
 
I checked my past work, I've used MJ21196G outputs, four per receiver. They have run well for years in one case and months in another. I've double checked and these are a preferred replacement.
You may want to check out this other thread:

Transistor sub for BD139/BD140 ( in Sansui 5000A ) due to availability

Hi al.. I'm in the process of refurbing a 5000A and starting with the "skippy mod" for the 1040-1 boards (right channel is blowing fuse so just starting to dig in) but work was performed on it at some point, also has different drivers in L vs R as are the outputs and some of the resistors, so...
audiokarma.org
 
Guido57 said:
I checked my past work, I've used MJ21196G outputs, four per receiver. They have run well for years in one case and months in another. I've double checked and these are a preferred replacement.
You may want to check out this other thread:

Transistor sub for BD139/BD140 ( in Sansui 5000A ) due to availability

Hi al.. I'm in the process of refurbing a 5000A and starting with the "skippy mod" for the 1040-1 boards (right channel is blowing fuse so just starting to dig in) but work was performed on it at some point, also has different drivers in L vs R as are the outputs and some of the resistors, so...
audiokarma.org
Click to expand...
thanks I'll read through it
 
Ok I did read through all that and some great insight.
IMG_3491.jpeg
I did find the F1041 board still installed but the White, & black wires cut so it was removed from circuit when the 6013's were installed. The board is still in there and 3 wires are still hooked up, a soldered to frame ground, an orange that goes to the bulb and a brown that looks like it goes to Board F1029. I am wondering if I should just leave the board and de solder the "strays". The capacitors are getting replaced so that will be handled but there are the 2 wires that go to a pair of terminal hooks that have capacitors soldered to them that have 2 wires that do not goto anything,
IMG_3493.jpeg
I did look at the the other one that feeds the bad right channel and it uses ceramic capacitors and isn't wired the same... so trying to figure that out now.
IMG_3494.jpeg

So what is the consensus leave the board and remove the wiring?
What do the other 2 wires got,
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2025-02-01 at 5.11.54 PM.png
    Screenshot 2025-02-01 at 5.11.54 PM.png
    312.4 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_3490.jpeg
    IMG_3490.jpeg
    186.5 KB · Views: 12
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom