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Sansui 5000

There are wires that are removed when replacing the 1040 or 1040-1 with the 6013 boards. Edit:The brown and orange play in power delivery, I'd have to look at my notes. If I recall correctly there are four wires no longer needed: blue, grey, black, white: but one should not bet the farm when "if I recall correctly" prefaces the statement. The 6013 were developed, as far as I know, for the 5000X which does not use the protection circuit of the 5000 and 5000A. For clarification it may be helpful to read the service bulletin, ce-037A for replacing the 1040 with the 6013. The bulletin refers only to the 5000X, but the early versions had the 1040-1 boards. Procedure is the same for the 5000 and 5000A, 1040 or 1040-1.
 
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I have been going through and testing everything I can think of all the other capacitors seem to be in good shape with a visual and within the specs for them except the 4 for the driver/amp. I had to adjust the the tuner indicator but it works fine now. The transistors for the amp, the capacitors there are being replaced as well as the damaged resistors on the 6013 board.

What else needs to be looked at and checked on these?
 
"should I remove the board then completely?"

Are you talking the protection circuit board, F-1041? Not necessary, though I have heard of units with it removed.
Just which transistors are you replacing? TR808 and 807 (outputs) or 804 and 805 (power). Which four caps are you referring to? I'm guessing C003 thru C006.
If you have the 6013 board out you might as well replace the electrolytics on that as well (then recap the other 6013 after the dust has settled).
 
yes removing 1041, replacing tr80 &TR808, replacing C003- C006. What benefits might I have with replacing the driver boar transistors on the 6013's I have been thinking about just doing what it needs to be working and then slowly over the next few months make the changes so I can get used to the system and hear the changes....

I need to change the cord should I go with a 3 prong and ground the chassis with it and if I do should I use the external grounding mount or should I just ground it internally?
 
Provided the driver transistors on the 6013 are "good" you don't need to change them. The only one I've changed was good with the diode test but it's hFe was about 10% of the others in the unit. I've been told that situation makes no sense. That channel had a problem until I replaced that transistor with a pulled one I had on hand.
I've replaced a total of one two prong with a three prong and not on a 5000. I don't recall where I got the instructions but it was not as simple as attaching the ground to the chassis; though not highly difficult I think it falls into the category of "if you have to ask don't do it". There are differing opinions on it but I try to return units to the way the were originally built.
 
the 5000 has a specific ground spot on the outside of the chassis and I was thinking about using it....
The ground "screw terminal is just attached to the frame so I am really doing the same.. Wondering if I should put a ferrite ring on it also....

My background is a lot in industrial control systems, plc and logic controls not this fun stuff...
 

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on another note do any of you have any experience with the SF-2 speakers I have found a pair I am wanting but not sure.....
 
The ground on the receiver's case is for the turntable. From what I've gleaned there are specific ways to attach an earth (ground) to electronics and it is not attaching the ground to the case. I am not an expert on mains wiring. There are people who will argue the different ways, I just go with who I think are the best authorities. My preference on general stuff is: https://www.sound-au.com/
I don't change things unless there is a compelling argument.
Only Sansui I'm familiar with is the 5000 series, nothing about speakers other than the reputation it was not their strong suit. Other than that I think a pair of SF-2 would have a good WAF provided the finish is in good shape.
I've run my 5000s through Large Advents and Hartley Zodiacs with good results. A nephew loves the 5000A/Large Advent setup I gave him.
 
SF-2 are interesting speakers (I have a pair) and while they sound ok, I'd probably not suggest them for main listening speakers. Being omnidirectional, their imaging is odd (no typical sweet spot) and having only 8" woofers of late 60's/early 70's design, their frequency response is a bit limited versus more typical large bookshelf or floor standing types. Of course, if using a sub, this may not be an issue for you. Really, these are best suited to background/ambient music use, or as part of a surround system in the rear channels, typically.

Also be aware the grilles were originally fitted with acoustically transparent foam backing, which by this point has dry rotted to dust. Generally, if any foam is still present, there will be large holes in it. If it crumbles further and ends up on your floor, it makes a mess. If pursuing these, I'd suggest finding a way to install new grille cloth on the rear of each panel after cleaning off any remaining foam. It will greatly improve their appearance.
 
Well resistors are here, now waiting on the transistors for the amp and the capacitors also so that I can freshen all that up...
 
WOW I have now read I believe everything on running an earth ground to one of these old amplifiers, and I believe my take away is make it easy to remove incase it causes a hum minion LOL
 
Ok capacitors are changed along with adapter rings to fit them in the original holders, they are temporaries in and will get aligned better. All the resistors that were bad that I found are in, as are the amp transistors on the back panel the tr807 tr808
 
I have new tr804 replacements coming also.

I now have a dfferent problem. I have verified that I have the voltage coming out of the fuses and such but I can not get any sound out of any channels... so I am not sure what is going on...
 
tr804 is getting very warm but tests good.....
I am getting 70 volts at 2 of the capacitors (fed by oange and red and tied together but the 2 fed with grey and blue is only 12 volts
 
jnl1105 said:
tr804 is getting very warm but tests good.....
I am getting 70 volts at 2 of the capacitors (fed by oange and red and tied together but the 2 fed with grey and blue is only 12 volts
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Just which caps are you referring to?
I don't think TR804 should get that warm.
 
the amp 2200uf capacitors. I agree with that tr804 is getting to warm. I can't figure why I am getting no output but can't seem to find a an issue except the 2 capacitor not getting full voltage (if they are supposed to) and the tr804 on the right channel getting that warm.

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Your second picture are the filtering caps.
The third picture are the power supply caps. I'm not surprised the voltages are different, their functions are different. However, I've never felt the need to check the voltage on the filter caps. I'll probably check that tomorrow. Just for grins.
Your long uncovered leads on the filter caps give me the willies. Can't tell from the picture if the orange and gray are touching or not. I'm a bit paranoid about **** like that.
No sound? Is one of the tape monitor buttons pressed in? (Yes, I've done that.)
 
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