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Sansui Eight help - hum on one channel

Yes I did the Multiplex board on the eight, I just used WIMA film in the signal path, UPW for power, and I think I used some UKL Low Leakage for some signal path caps too...
Great, thanks! One last question. I have not replaced the main filter caps or C022, but I'm thinking about it based on the fact that all the other e-caps have been out of spec. What did you use or recommend here? I've been using Nichicon fine gold on the boards, but the LKG Nichicons are quite expensive in this capacitance range. Just wondering what makes sense here. Should the voltage rating and/or capacitance be increased?
 
Great, thanks! One last question. I have not replaced the main filter caps or C022, but I'm thinking about it based on the fact that all the other e-caps have been out of spec. What did you use or recommend here? I've been using Nichicon fine gold on the boards, but the LKG Nichicons are quite expensive in this capacitance range. Just wondering what makes sense here. Should the voltage rating and/or capacitance be increased?
I use LKG unless the customer wants a cheaper option, you can always find something that fits in that range of caps.
Kemet do a reasonably priced option, but I didn't explore that option for the eight I was working on as the customer was a "money is no object" guy.....
On all my personal amplifiers, I used the Gold Tune LKG type caps, they are very good, I think the price isn't too bad...
 
I use LKG unless the customer wants a cheaper option, you can always find something that fits in that range of caps.
Kemet do a reasonably priced option, but I didn't explore that option for the eight I was working on as the customer was a "money is no object" guy.....
On all my personal amplifiers, I used the Gold Tune LKG type caps, they are very good, I think the price isn't too bad...
Should the capacitance be increased on the filter caps? I saw that another member found that the LKG 10,000µF/80V caps were an exact fit for the holder. They are $20 each at Mouser. :yikes:
 
Should the capacitance be increased on the filter caps? I saw that another member found that the LKG 10,000µF/80V caps were an exact fit for the holder. They are $20 each at Mouser. :yikes:
Absolutely, you just have to consider the bridge rectifier, sometimes this will need upgrading to handle the extra inrush current, but 10,000µF is totally fine, and also it does put a bit more strain on the power switch if the amp has no soft start circuit.
 
I've got a request in to Mark at Absolute Sound Labs in Minneapolis. They don't list Sansui as one of the brands they work on, but I'm hoping they will do tuner alignments on them... I'm looking forward to significant improvement on my 9090, which is not very good at pulling in stations, but really should be.
Well, that was a bust. I just talked to Mark on the phone and he does not work on Sansui 9090 or TU-9900 tuners. Says they are too complex, and it's too difficult to get any improvement with a reasonable amount of effort. :( Very disappointing since this was was driving distance for me, and my in-laws live near his location. Are these tuners really that difficult to work on or are techs just taking low hanging fruit? It's particularly strange as they are a factory authorized McIntosh repair shop. He said 97% of their business is McIntosh repair. So are Sansui tuners that much more complicated than McIntosh? :dunno:
 
Says they are too complex, and it's too difficult to get any improvement with a reasonable amount of effort.
Absolute nonsense!!

Sansui tuners are actually really easy to align, I can always get improved performance from them, in some cases, the alignments don't even drift that much, they are pretty good designs and have good stability...
I have no idea what he's talking about.

I can align something like a 9090 in about an hour and a half and have it with less distortion and improved sensitivity and accuracy than when I start.
Yes, Sansui do have some rather odd alignment processes, and want you to use some gear which us not obtainable any more, but I work around that with my own procedures and techniques.
Any decent tech would do the same.

McIntosh tuners are every bit as complex, if not more than many of the Sansui tuner designs...

Get the gear, learn to do it yourself...
 
Get the gear, learn to do it yourself...

Browsing the tuner forum, I see a number of people use the Sencore SG-165. I assume that replaces a few of the items on your list. I looked all of those up on e-bay, and it would likely cost me about $2,000 to get all that gear used. So, just thinking about what is the most cost effective way to acquire the needed gear. Looks like the SG-165 can be had for around $350. As I said, I can borrow a scope that goes to 110 MHz for the dial alignment, etc.
 
Browsing the tuner forum, I see a number of people use the Sencore SG-165. I assume that replaces a few of the items on your list. I looked all of those up on e-bay, and it would likely cost me about $2,000 to get all that gear used. So, just thinking about what is the most cost effective way to acquire the needed gear. Looks like the SG-165 can be had for around $350. As I said, I can borrow a scope that goes to 110 MHz for the dial alignment, etc.
I have a Sencore SG-165, I never use it.
Yes, at a pinch they can do everything, all in one, but here's the rub.

Almost every 165 when you buy it, will have a broken frequency dial shaft, the load resistors are almost always burned out, they do not have BNC connectors which means you have to change to those to use it with an oscilloscope.
They do not have a great deal of accuracy, especially the RF signal generator. They also have their own way of pulling a visual IF alignment image from the tuner which doesn't work with some tuners. There are much better ways to do IF alignment, which is why you really need a Distortion analyser.
I have used it once or twice, and to be honest found it a but lacklustre and frustrating.
But it might be a good way for you to get into it and get the idea of alignment.......
Be aware though that you wont really find the Sansui SM much good using the sencore, you'll have to use the sencore manual for alignment, which as I said, may or may not work with some Sansui tuners...

You don't need a 100+ MHZ scope for alignment, you can use a 20mhz scope as you are only looking at the audio output
 
Recapped the phono board and tone control board with Wima film caps for <10µF and Nichicon gold for the higher e-caps and tantalum.

All that’s left is the tuner and MPX boards. Can I use Wima films and Nichicon gold in there or are other caps recommended for the e-cap replacements? I need to place a Mouser order for other projects soon, so I figured I might as well add these replacements to the list.
 
Replaced trimmers on R channel driver board.

Was not able to make much change on main amp current on that channel, about 3 mA. May be an issue there. Turning VR803 didn't do much.

Then adjusted VR801, 802, 804. Was able to get 0.5 V across R804 pretty easily. DC offset adjusted to about -52mV and VR804 to about 1mV. Could not do much better than that. Sames as on L channel, if I adjusted VR804 up, I could get lower DC offset, so this was a balance.

Listened through headphones. Have both channels stereo. Will try some throwaway speakers next.

If that is ok, go through the same procedure on full line voltage?
Hello

I had the same problem Bias too low on one chanel(R). after compare vs the good one... R386 (15 OHMS) was bad

one i chenged it, bias rises up to 7-9mA and cold be set
Replaced trimmers on R channel driver board.

Was not able to make much change on main amp current on that channel, about 3 mA. May be an issue there. Turning VR803 didn't do much.

Then adjusted VR801, 802, 804. Was able to get 0.5 V across R804 pretty easily. DC offset adjusted to about -52mV and VR804 to about 1mV. Could not do much better than that. Sames as on L channel, if I adjusted VR804 up, I could get lower DC offset, so this was a balance.

Listened through headphones. Have both channels stereo. Will try some throwaway speakers next.

If that is ok, go through the same procedure on full line voltage?

I had the same problem Bias too low on one chanel(R). after compare vs the good one... R386 (15 OHMS) was bad

one i changed it, bias rises up to 7-9mA and could be set properly on 8mV +/- 0.5 mV.

hope it helps someone.

regards
 
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