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I am happy to report that the unit still functions perfectly and I am using it as the main TT for now, having replaced the interim SL-1500 I was using (got lazy and prefer the automatic TT but didn't want to wear out the MC25FL I have mounted on my Revox B791).
I have another 1310MkII that I found some months ago and started (slowly) working on it. The tonearm assembly is waiting on my desk for disassembly and a better repair.
The first one was a bit hasty and not so elegant and probably this is why cueing has a limited height range - but works nonetheless.
John Did you see this in another thread?
TT-Tech TT-Tech is offline
AK Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 4
Hello,the arm lift cam can be repaired. i have repaired several of them and i have had the pleasure of working on an SL-1310MKII that the late Joel Thorner repaired the cuing on at one time at the turntable factory.
What you need to do is drill 2 very small holes on each side of the break
and ruff the surface up with sandpaper or a small dremel stone and cut 2 short pieces of small diameter mechanics wire and bend the ends to fit in the drilled holes and form the wire to the lift cam and then 2 part clear epoxy into the holes and over the wire and repaired area but go easy on the epoxy!
also all this has to be done with the cam clamped over the lift well until the epoxy sets up.and when reassembling you might have file the epoxy on the area of the cam where the lift lever contacts it.
Also don't forget to service the lift with fresh 300,000csi damping fluid.
John Did you see this in another thread?
TT-Tech TT-Tech is offline
AK Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 4
Hello,the arm lift cam can be repaired. i have repaired several of them and i have had the pleasure of working on an SL-1310MKII that the late Joel Thorner repaired the cuing on at one time at the turntable factory.
What you need to do is drill 2 very small holes on each side of the break
and ruff the surface up with sandpaper or a small dremel stone and cut 2 short pieces of small diameter mechanics wire and bend the ends to fit in the drilled holes and form the wire to the lift cam and then 2 part clear epoxy into the holes and over the wire and repaired area but go easy on the epoxy!
also all this has to be done with the cam clamped over the lift well until the epoxy sets up.and when reassembling you might have file the epoxy on the area of the cam where the lift lever contacts it.
Also don't forget to service the lift with fresh 300,000csi damping fluid.