SL1600mk2 Gear Repair

[Clemon]

Allan A., is the problem that the start drop point drifts after playing 20-30 records? Have you tried readjusting the drop point? If that corrects the problem for another 20-30 records, maybe something got lubed a little too well?

 

[KentTeffeteller]

Small gear on Gear Assembly #97 – SFUP-172-51A has a crack on the radius, a common failing. Extends from center hole to edge.
AudioKarma.org member Hemi Ram (Rich) posted that he found a replacement gear in NY and made the repair.
Rich cut the old crumbling gear off and pressed the new gear onto the metal shaft. The plastic (Acetal) gear only needs the 7mm hub projection reduced to about half that size. Thanks Rich for all your help!!
I live in neighboring state (NJ), ordered a few and was charged $3.95 shipping. Here is the company info, I received the order in two days;

SDP/SI (Stock Drive Products/ Sterling Instrument), (1-800-819-8900/ 516-328-3300 ext 491), 2010 Jericho Turnpike, Box 5416, New Hyde Park, NY 11042-5416. Web site; https://sdp-si.com/web/html/direct.htm
Enter Part # in search window, click on part #, then click 'Catalog Page' for gears & specs)

Part# A1M2MYZ05032; Module 0.5, 32 Teeth, 20degree Pressure Angle, Acetal /No Insert Spur Gear. $1.36 each.

In its mounted position, I removed two screws removed for clearance. I pressed / wedged my old gear off using a few odd tools. Unless you have experience doing it without a small gear press, I suggest you cut it off with a large diagonal wire cutter. I used a wooden dowel to hold the gear and a Band-saw to cut off less than half of the 7mm Hub projection. I used a large pair of needle nose or duck billed pliers, (a little lube) to press gear onto splined shaft. On the backside of this gear is the rubber/neoprene drive roller that moves the tone arm laterally. Roller can deteriorate, additionally the roller and adjacent surface must be free of grease. Rich noted that #60 neoprene will work. I've included some Pics of my repair.

For the sake of Engine Search effectiveness, I will also post today my repair of the Pitch Control LEDs on my SL1600mk2. IC427 was the offender and CD4011BEE4 (Mouser Elec. @ .50¢) was the cure.

Thanks for this post, it helps keep SL-1600 Mk II automatic classics alive. It is useful to the AK community. Lots of love x 1,000,000 times over from KT.

 

[Clemon]

It is also possible to repair the broken gear, although not exactly easy. Still, I suggest not destroying or discarding the old gear.

 

[springrkeith]

I order a copper gear for replacement in $1 us,
Because I can't found a plastic one in Hong Kong,
It work fine.

 

[qbus]

It is also possible to repair the broken gear, although not exactly easy. Still, I suggest not destroying or discarding the old gear.

Yes it's possible. I've done that and it worked for a while. To fix it I used superglue but with special activator in a marker - without that glued part broke again after trying to put it on axis.
However there can be another catch - after glued I noticed that crack destroyed one teeth and when arm was moving up/down it was also moving a little bit to the right - sometimes when needle was still on plate.

When searching for replacement gear I've found this thread however shipping this gear from U.S. to Europe costs over 30$.
Fortunately I found a replacement - it can be found on farnell.com under 101281032FAR part number.
I've just ordered it and waiting for package. When it arrives I'll post update if it fits or not.

 

[Clemon]

What has worked for me is 1) putting a zip tie tightly around the circumference of the gear to reproduce original tooth spacing for following steps 2) cutting a circular groove on the flat side of the gear 3) putting carbon fiber tow/epoxy in groove 4) slightly enlarging center hole to compensate for the shrinkage that caused the gear to break in the first place.

 

[qbus]

Hello again,
Today I've received gears.
It looks that they are exactly the same as the ones from first post of this thread - I had to cut some part of it to fit it onto axis (it's visible on photos I've attached to this post).
It fits perfectly and it's working as it should.

To summarize - for Europe you can save money by ordering this gear from farnell.com, 101281032FAR part number.

 

[Clemon]

Looks good. Hopefully, availability of replacement gears will keep these excellent turntables working for many more years. Thanks.

 

[Montycat]

I order a copper gear for replacement in $1 us,
Because I can't found a plastic one in Hong Kong,
It work fine.
View attachment 1149187

And where did you get the copper one please?

 

[mckennovitch]

To summarize - for Europe you can save money by ordering this gear from farnell.com, 101281032FAR part number.

many thanks. i'm going to try this

 

[DCDi]

I have a little cracked gear too but im not sure this is the problem. The stylus i always lowered at te same place. At the outer edge of the record in repeat play and too much inside in the song grooves in normal play.
As if these two play modes have different start point?!

The small gear has a lot of room as it turnd as if its not tightly wedged in there.

 

[NWRES]

DCDi, that cracked gear in your photos should not have any play. If it seems loose, that may be the cause of the inconsistent drop location. I would replace the gear. It will continue to slip and eventually stop functioning all together.

 

[Clemon]

DCDi, perhaps you could apply a drop of cyanoacrylate glue to keep the gear from spinning on the shaft, and see if that fixes the shifting start point? Fixing the gear is the way to go, in my opinion, but sometimes a temporary solution is good enough for the time being.

 

[DCDi]

I am in Europe and i ordered the replacement gear from ebay UK today. About $5 including delivery. Now the trick will be to take the old gear off without breaking the shaft it sits on.
I'm wondering if the SL1300mk2 uses the same gear type for arm lift? (The one that often cracks and makes auto functions non working) as i can get that model really cheap and it can be modified for 78rpm very easily.

 

[DCDi]

It doesn't really spin but it has alot of room when you push it left-right. But still does not skip the teeth. It is cracked but very little.
The big gear on the other hand is steady as a rock!
Thanks a lot to all of you for the advice. Very much appreciated. My love for old technics TTs knows no limits.

 

[DCDi]

I finally received the huco gear part after 2 months!!!

Works fine now except the auroreturn positiin is all screwed up. And the button cueing lifts the arm and drops it back down immediately. Also the cue lever does nothing whatsoever.
So it is fixed only half way.

 

[Go Giants]

I have cracked small white gear too. I have a replacement coming.

Hoping that along with a new belt will get the auto functions going.

Is there an easier way to get at just the tonearm and gear? I had to pretty much disassemble most of the deck to get at that gear to pull it off.

This is a great deck...one of the best I have, so would love to it running right.

 

[DCDi]

You must take off the plinth and tonearm assembly. There is no other way.
You can only change the belt without opening it up.

 

[Go Giants]

OK..thanks. I had it off once, looks like ill disassemble it again when the white gear arrives.

I had a hard time getting the 4 screws that hold the board back in. Finally did it, but it took a bit of work to line it up.

Yes, I was able to get the belt in while not cracking the thing open. Tweezers helped.

 

[toma5659]

If the gear is still in place and only the cracks are visible, it can be repaired.
First clean off all grease off with acetone( only the top off the gear needs to be clean)
If clean, treat the cracks with superglue ( thin only)
Then on top of that a layer of Araldite (2 component composite) and let it dry
Will hold forever!!