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SL1600mk2 Gear Repair

Replaced the o ring and installed a new small plastic gear.

When I had the top off I can see the small brass spindle spinning and the o ring as well when I hit start. I can see move in the opposite direction when I hit stop.

When I put the top back on and tried the automatic feature I can hear the gears engage, but it doesnt seem to have oomph to complete the action of lifting and moving the tonearm over the record.

When it got to the end of the record, again I heard the gears engage, but the best it could do was lift the tonearm just slightly off the record.

Not sure why this is happening. I can tell you that the tt sat unused for many years.

I tried to clean up any gunk...maybe I just need to get in there to clean more?

I feel like I'm making progress, but very slowly.
 
Go Giants said:
Replaced the o ring and installed a new small plastic gear.

When I had the top off I can see the small brass spindle spinning and the o ring as well when I hit start. I can see move in the opposite direction when I hit stop.

When I put the top back on and tried the automatic feature I can hear the gears engage, but it doesnt seem to have oomph to complete the action of lifting and moving the tonearm over the record.

When it got to the end of the record, again I heard the gears engage, but the best it could do was lift the tonearm just slightly off the record.

Not sure why this is happening. I can tell you that the tt sat unused for many years.

I tried to clean up any gunk...maybe I just need to get in there to clean more?

I feel like I'm making progress, but very slowly.
Click to expand...
Check the little lever with the rubber roller on it. It is what pushes the tonearm.
It might be the belt is too loose and slipping.
-Remove the platter and top cover.
-Manually put the arm in end groove position.
-Press start/stop button.
When the motor turns check if the plastic white pulley is turning.
If the motor spindle turns but belt and pulley do not. You have a bad belt.
It should be about 32mm inner diameter.
Not sure how much it is in inches.
I use a square belt for cassette decks of that diameter. Works fine.

If everything turns but arm does not move up and down then you have a problem with electronic lifter .
It is a microswitch with a little metal lever on it.
This lever can get stuck and even deformed and then cueing does not work.
You have to remove all the motor parts from beneath the armbase and desolder tiny wires to get to it.
When this happens usually when you press cue button arm goes up and back down or it doesnt move up at all while manual cueing by lever works fine.
This lever is explained in exploded view part nr 110 i think in service manual.
Compare the shape with yours.

But if your arm moves up just partly i suspect the old belt got stretched and slipping.
Also remove old grease from all 3 gears and put new one on. Silicon grease loves plastic but with time turnes liquid and drips down.
And lithium grease is too rough on plastic.

Good luck!
 
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Go Giants said:
Replaced the o ring and installed a new small plastic gear.

When I had the top off I can see the small brass spindle spinning and the o ring as well when I hit start. I can see move in the opposite direction when I hit stop.

When I put the top back on and tried the automatic feature I can hear the gears engage, but it doesnt seem to have oomph to complete the action of lifting and moving the tonearm over the record.

When it got to the end of the record, again I heard the gears engage, but the best it could do was lift the tonearm just slightly off the record.

Not sure why this is happening. I can tell you that the tt sat unused for many years.

I tried to clean up any gunk...maybe I just need to get in there to clean more?

I feel like I'm making progress, but very slowly.
Click to expand...


Hi, Check the little lever with the rubber roller on it. It is what pushes the tonearm. This lever needs to move freely even with the small spring on it. The pivot points freeze up and the lever won't move at all or only a little, with as result a not functional tone arm transport. On the pivot point you need to remove the very small circlip and remove the old grease and I always use a drop of synthetic motoroil for enclosed pivot points.

Hope you get this nice turntable to work as should
 
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Thanks guys. Hoping it's more of a clean and relube issue.

Fixed a fully automatic SL 1900 that had plastic white gear / lever issues and it now works like a charm.

The SL1900 is actually an underated and very nice deck. But, I can hear the the SL 1600 II beats it.

Even if I can't get it to work in auto, I'll probably just keep it and use it in manual mode. I believe it's that good.
 
Go Giants said:
Thanks guys. Hoping it's more of a clean and relube issue.

Fixed a fully automatic SL 1900 that had plastic white gear / lever issues and it now works like a charm.

The SL1900 is actually an underated and very nice deck. But, I can hear the the SL 1600 II beats it.

Even if I can't get it to work in auto, I'll probably just keep it and use it in manual mode. I believe it's that good.
Click to expand...
Just check all the things i wrote it will work for sure.
On one 1600mk2 i even had the blown IR LEDs inside the optical sensors beneath the tonearm base. As well as blown IR LEDs in the size selector sensors.
It must have been kept in humid place for a long time. Water is death to electronic components same like overheating.
Replaced all LEDS including strobe, green square and blue stylus LED. It now works like new.
The 1600mk2 is the best full auto retro TT eith the best sound you can get thanks to the double isolation ie the inner base hanging on springs.
It even beats the almighty 1200mk2 in true hifi sound.
When tonearm is upgraded with cardas wire and high quality RCA cable it is THE ONE to own.

The only better TT maybe soundwise is the Technics SP10mk2 or mk3.

You can even have KAB modify it to play 78RPM and also install his tonearm damper system.
 
Yes, I've got to crack it open again. At least I'm getting better at taking it apart...lol.

This might now be my best sounding deck. I think it beats out my Pioneer PL 518 for sound. But all features work on the 518 and its mint.

The 1610 may even best my Denon DP 1500, but I haven't really heard them side by side.

All 3 decks are heavy and well built.
 
I have a Denon 47F.
Nice features but not heavy enough. No spring isolation no VTA adjustment.
Technics is alot better. Richer sound deeper bass just alot better sounding.
But i like Denon's wood cabinet very classy.
 
I have to agree. I notice the 1610 II doing things the other two decks dont do quite as well.

Yes, better and tighter bass for sure. Using a decent AT 15XE right now. I can only imagine how it will sound with a little better cartridge.

Yes, VTA is nice to have. I like the little pop up light too.
 
Picked up a 1600mk2 off Craigslist months ago, and its experiencing some erratic arm movement. Sometimes it goes all the way to the label, and wont stop, and sometimes it drops on the lead in groove and won't return.
I removed the tonearm and looked at the gear assembly, and it seems the smaller gear isn't moving correctly when it moves up and down.
In 27:20 of this video:

The gear moves on its own smoothly up and down, but mine appears to stick to the larger gear when it moves. It seems to rotate fine. Here is my gear in action:

.

Does the small gear needs to be replaced because of a small hairline crack, or is it just old lube or a problem with parts behind the gears? What grease should I use for the gears, I have 99% Isopropyl Alcohol, would that be the best to remove the old grease, or can it affect the plastic on the gear?
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Thanks!
 
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You should replace it but i do not see anything abnormal in how the gears move.
It should work fine even without being greased.
As long as the gears' teeth are touching correctly it should work ok.
 
The gears look fine, you could clean them with the alcohol and then re-grease with silicone grease. I use Sil-Glyde from NAPA auto parts.
 
Although I have a gear for replacement when needed, I got it after I looked at the gear in my unit and while there cleaned it and then JB Welded a washer to the gear to prevent normal forces from causing more cracks/breaks in the gear. I don't know how long it will hold, kinda like the head gasket I did in 91 using just numbers for torquing the bolts when the factory instructions were torque, wait, torque, run engine, angle additional tightening. Still a procedure under test, since 1991 and still working it seems, car runs great. If the glued on washer to the gear works as long I'll be happy.
 
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Seems to be a common issue with this deck. Futzed with mine a few times... installed new white gear and belt. I eventually gave up.

I run it in one of my rigs in manual mode.

I'd say it's on par with my Thorens TD 160 and my Denon DP 1500 so it's not going anywhere.
 
Hey all, just got an SL-1600 MK2 that has this issue. Debating returning it or fixing it and just wanted to see if anyone has any extra gears they'd be willing to part with since the link above now has a minimum order and it would cost me about $30 bucks to get a couple. I'm located in Iowa if that makes any difference. Thanks for all the great info as well!
 
Now for my issue. I have two of these SL-1600 MK2's. One is all set but the other is having a start issue. Let me try to explain. I replaced the gear, cleaned old grease and re-greased. Cleaned rubber roller with Iso Alcohol and the contact point on the cam as well for good measure. When I push start, the turntable tries to spin but seems to brake and stop, the arm also does not lift up. When I try again, an even more limited turn on the platter. Now when I use the cueing, no problem, manually move arm over, no problem, plays perfectly. Also, auto return works perfectly. Any thoughts on this?
 
Yes, I replaced the gear. It runs smooth now, but it did not fix all the issues. My TT still moves the arm all the way to the center, then the arm lowers, the platter stops, the arm raises and returns to the rest. This happens when I press the auto start. It works fine as a semi-auto. but I am looking for help with getting the full auto working.

Good afternoon! I have the same problem with my vinyl. Did you manage to solve this problem, when in automatic mode the arm reaches the hitch-stop point, descends on the record, the disc stops turning, and then the arm rises and returns to its parking lot.
 
NWRES said:
Yes, I replaced the gear. It runs smooth now, but it did not fix all the issues. My TT still moves the arm all the way to the center, then the arm lowers, the platter stops, the arm raises and returns to the rest. This happens when I press the auto start. It works fine as a semi-auto. but I am looking for help with getting the full auto working.
Click to expand...

Good afternoon! I have the same problem with my vinyl. Did you manage to solve this problem, when in automatic mode the arm reaches the hitch-stop point, descends on the record, the disc stops turning, and then the arm rises and returns to its parking lot.
 
Gelo said:
Yes, I replaced the gear. It runs smooth now, but it did not fix all the issues. My TT still moves the arm all the way to the center, then the arm lowers, the platter stops, the arm raises and returns to the rest. This happens when I press the auto start. It works fine as a semi-auto. but I am looking for help with getting the full auto working.

Good afternoon! I have the same problem with my vinyl. Did you manage to solve this problem, when in automatic mode the arm reaches the hitch-stop point, descends on the record, the disc stops turning, and then the arm rises and returns to its parking lot.
Click to expand...

Do a search, I had a similar problem with my SL-1650 (although the platter does not stop, that is weird) and the problem has to do with a plastic piece getting stuck on its pivot. I found a how to on the Tube of Yoo and disassembled and lubed that part and that sorted it. I would assume that the fix is similar for you as a 1600 is just a 1650 without the changer capability. If the Mk2 is different in this respect then I apologize for misleading you.
 
Hi

I am the owner of an SL Q33 which seems to have the same auto mecanism with same failure possibilities.

The little gear would break on mine soon or late, as a very thin crack is already visible, without interfering on the movement for tthe moment.

It 's a bless to read that there are manufacturers to deliver aftermarket gears and many thanks to the guys here who gave the links for these parts.

Also, good to read glueing techniques, I am tempted to try, even if I think glue in the shaft would mean chances to get an unremovable part if it really need to be changed later ( because glue on the axis.)

I worry à bit about the eventuality of breaking or destroying something when trying to pull the gear off. I tried a bit with fingers but no move.

It would be very cool if someone who has already removed the whole Arm lifting motor part to get more clearance and not break the gear could detail in some points how to do that, so everybody would benefit from the process resume, unless this Is already explained somewhere else.

Thanks by advance.
 
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