fun isn't it?
it does get easier.
hint: you could have soldered leg #2 thru the backside and had the board sit more squarely to the board. nothing gained in performance. just appearances.
SMD SMT surface mount replacement or equivalent for 2SC992 KSA992 2SC1845 KSC1845 BC549 BC550 BC559 BC560 low noise BJT transistors
- Thread starter dlucy
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it does get easier.
hint: you could have soldered leg #2 thru the backside and had the board sit more squarely to the board. nothing gained in performance. just appearances.
Excellent! Thanks!!
My first attempt at creating 2SA798 replacements with HN4A06J SOT-25 packaged devices. I don't have a lot of experience soldering SMDs but the old eyes still did OK. FOr a real challenge you can use the flipside of these little breakout boards and try solder smaller SOT-353 devices.
p4spooky
Active Member
Posting the gerber for the 2SA798 adapter board (Created by @TupolevFan) and shared in THIS thread
@dlucy - Request we consolidate a source for these SMD breakout boards, connectors in first post of this thread. Will be useful IMO.
I got these made by pcbway. They were not too expensive and makes the install look great. Here is my example restoring a Setton BS5500
@dlucy - Request we consolidate a source for these SMD breakout boards, connectors in first post of this thread. Will be useful IMO.
I got these made by pcbway. They were not too expensive and makes the install look great. Here is my example restoring a Setton BS5500
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Good idea. Great work!
Input like this and feedback on the results are welcome and appreciated.
@p4spooky take a look at post #1 and tell me if what I've added is what you were thinking.
p4spooky
Active Member
Perfect @dlucy
We could add the following as well?
1. SOT-23 breakout
2. SOT89/223 breakout
3. 2.54mm right angle connector (these work great on newer equipment with 2.54mm pcb holes - like Denon/Onkyo)
We could add the following as well?
1. SOT-23 breakout
2. SOT89/223 breakout
3. 2.54mm right angle connector (these work great on newer equipment with 2.54mm pcb holes - like Denon/Onkyo)
I’m happy to add them to post #1, but…
Do _you_ want to make a post here, collecting and maintaining all the detail on current and future adapter/connector finding… and I’ll just _point_ to that post in from post #1? You’ll do a far better job (of collecting and maintaining) than I can.
Great thread. A few weeks ago, I needed to round an Aliexpress order up to $10 for free shipping so I added 50 pcs of the SOT-23 adapter boards to have on hand for future experimentation. Yesterday I placed a parts order and added 200 pcs of the KSC1815 replacement (2SC4116GR) and 20 pcs of the 2SK30A replacement (2SK208GR) both in SOT23 package . . . they are so inexpensive, less than $5 for all of them. I have plenty of the through-hole components but what the heck. Maybe I'll try them on my next restoration. Thanks for posting this!
I made up a few SK208 replacements on adapter boards... using a regular soldering iron. Messy and not pretty, but works.
A shipment with a syringe of SMD solder paste arrived and I'll be trying the "solder paste and hot air gun" method for making up these boards this coming weekend. I'm looking forward to the results.
i used to watch louis rossman videos and everything he did with hot air, he came back and manually touched up the legs with a soldering iron.
watched him blow parts off pcbs with hot air too.
i'll be interested to see how you make out with hot air alone.
I already have the soldering paste and hot air station, so I'll probably pre-mount them on the boards so I can do them all at once. It does take some practice and i've blown my share of tiny capacitors and resistors off of boards while I was removing ICs and other components but I have it down pretty well now. A single SOT-23 should be simple. Kaptan tape is useful to protect plastic connectors and other components you don't want to disturb.
JoseHH
Super Member
Hot plates are a great alternative to hot air or soldring iron. There is a youtube video by Great Scott that discusses this from a DYI point of view.
Louis Rossman videos are very good as well. I also watch them.
Louis Rossman videos are very good as well. I also watch them.
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Kinda the hard and difficult way to need hot air, paste to solder a sot-23. I can see if you are doing a lot of them and use a stencil to put down the paste. Problem with paste is without a stencil it’s messy and hard to get right amount on the pads. The last thing you want is too much solder volume that then needs to be removed as it can cause bridges. You do not need very much solder, that’s why a stencil is used to control the volume. Also paste is expensive, has a shelf life, needs to be put in the refrigerator. How about trying 15mil solder as a start. I hand solder sot-23-6 by naked eye but I am myopic and do not shake like a leaf. Weller/apex ETA tips work okay.
One problem I have is keeping the pcb in place if it’s small. My solution is that I design my own adapters that have v-grooves for breakaway. Also spec 1/32” material. It’s easier to hold down a larger pcb than a really small one.
One problem I have is keeping the pcb in place if it’s small. My solution is that I design my own adapters that have v-grooves for breakaway. Also spec 1/32” material. It’s easier to hold down a larger pcb than a really small one.
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wyn palmer
Addicted Member
The ZXTN2010G/ZXTP2012G as substitutes for the ZTX851/ZTX951 has been validated by simulation and direct substitution in a simple design. Indeed, they are slightly quieter.
Outstanding. I'll update post #1. Thanks.
from what i've seen on video, i THINK that the best use of hot air is for integrated circuits utilizing either a bga or the entire bottom of the chip is a ground plain.
as i already said, i watched LR resolder each and every leg after hot air....with a microscope i might add.
as i already said, i watched LR resolder each and every leg after hot air....with a microscope i might add.
Ground plane 
There’s lots of techniques to get the same result. I bought a hot air machine and only used it for removing a DFN packaged device. In that case, liquid flux and a proper nozzle is required. Everything else smt, I hand solder with 15mil solder. I obviously do not do bga by hand. To each there own. I do say some folks make it out to be more complicated than it need be, been doing smt since the 80’s
There’s lots of techniques to get the same result. I bought a hot air machine and only used it for removing a DFN packaged device. In that case, liquid flux and a proper nozzle is required. Everything else smt, I hand solder with 15mil solder. I obviously do not do bga by hand.
To each there own. I do say some folks make it out to be more complicated than it need be, been doing smt since the 80’s