caxton1476
New Member
I installed spade adaptors on the screw down terminals of my Realistic STA-18 receiver. The body of the adaptors rests against the chassis of the receiver - see pic. Is this a problem?
Spade adapter question
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Could be if the + terminals slide down and make contact with the chassis. Perhaps a couple of layers of electrical tape under the terminals, over the chassis lip but not covering the + and - designations.
caxton1476
New Member
To be clear, all four adaptors are in contact with the chassis. Metal on metal.
Looks like an effective way to short both of your channels...
I would not do this. Definitely not. Just get spade terminals for your cables.
whoaru99
Epic Member
In most cases the negatives are common with chassis anyway. But, since I don't know the specifics it would be wise to insulate all of them for good measure.
Or, as another has alluded to, do it in a different manner where there just isn't as much of an accident in the making.
caxton1476
New Member
Maybe a nonconducting collar between the adaptor and the chassis? Like a plastic or rubber washer?
Anyways I removed them before reconnecting my speakers, which are diy rigs from the early sixties with coaxial Utah drivers. Source is a cheap Bluetooth thing, 1Mii brand. It sounds so nice. This is my home office setup, where some nights I enjoy a little scotch.
The non-fatiguing clarity of this system amazes.
Anyways I removed them before reconnecting my speakers, which are diy rigs from the early sixties with coaxial Utah drivers. Source is a cheap Bluetooth thing, 1Mii brand. It sounds so nice. This is my home office setup, where some nights I enjoy a little scotch.
The non-fatiguing clarity of this system amazes.
I use insulating paint/sealant for automotive electrical work. Should be okay for the surface that may contact the receiver's backplate. 
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Forgive me for quoting this for emphasis, but it is SO true. It's not theoretical - I've seen it more than once.
Adaptors are also very good at breaking the barriers on barrier strips.
I fought many a screw terminal. Then I bought a 100pk of #6 10ga spades. Fits the old stuff, no risk of shorts.
There's many right ways.
There's many right ways.
Is stripping the wire, tinning it with solder, and then forming it around the screw not the simplest? No extra parts need!
Pretty much, but I like the extra protection the insulated connector gives. 12ga is a bit much to tin and it's what I use.
drjohnnyfeva
Well-Known Member
I did this when I converted to 10ga speaker wire many years ago. I used them previously with the smaller gauged wire too. Just easy to do. The frustration factor of bare wire on a screw was too high. lol
I started using these about 6 months ago with the idea that I'd like to switch out receivers occasionally, but I haven't really done that yet. My only gripe is when you use both A & B outputs it gets a pretty tight; especially in my situation where the receiver is on a counter and the wires have to sit on it rather than dangle from the back of the receiver over a shelf or back of a rack.
But there are definitely many ways address different situations.
Tin/Lead isn’t a very good conductor, nor is it excellent at preventing corrosion.
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