I'm over here using what adds up to 11.5g cables that are about 10 feet long. They're most definitely more clear and articulate that 16g or 12g. 24g? I wouldn't dream of such a thing. View attachment 1666364
I install A/V for a living..... No need to go any thicker. There’s virtually no voltage drop at such a short distance so going any bigger is just overkill.
You won’t hurt anything if you do other than your wallet and you won’t gain anything sonically.
I'm over here using what adds up to 11.5g cables that are about 10 feet long. They're most definitely more clear and articulate that 16g or 12g.
It's 20 feet of circuit.. a lot of folks consider 10' feet a long run.
I install A/V for a living. I would never use anything thinner than 18AWG for speakers and 18AWG is good for up to 50’. At 6.5’ I would use a minimum of 18AWG and a maximum of 16AWG. No need to go any thicker. There’s virtually no voltage drop at such a short distance so going any bigger is just overkill. You won’t hurt anything if you do other than your wallet and you won’t gain anything sonically.
What I mean is you can use 18AWG up to whatever thickness you want but it’s kind of like putting 93 octane gas in a car that only requires 87. You’re not going to benefit enough for it to justify the extra cost. Put the extra savings into something that WILL make a difference.OOhhh boy! Quoted for truth!
Be careful! Common sense and audio often dont meet!
What I mean is you can use 18AWG up to whatever thickness you want but it’s kind of like putting 93 octane gas in a car that only requires 87. You’re not going to benefit enough for it to justify the extra cost. Put the extra savings into something that WILL make a difference.
That’s because those people already spent the money on thick cable so they have to argue that it makes a difference. I’ve run 10AWG and even 8AWG in professional arenas for up to 1000’ then splice it with barrier strips/fork lugs and continue the run for a few hundred more feet. THAT’S when you need that kind of thickness.Then when we hook up a TOA ZM104A impedance meter there isn’t much loss. That is if all terminations were crimped or soldered correctly.LOL I knew what you meant and I agree! But just wait for the shitstorm of butt-hurt that will begin to rain down!
Let's keep this going. Last night to try something different, I picked up enough Southwire 12 gauge stranded THHN wire to test out. I have a long run, 28 feet and 23 feet . There is more clarity with this wire - and I was pretty happy with the wire I had (which you all will make fun of, so I ain't sayin' but it starts with an M and ends with an XP).
Is it because it's true 12 gauge copper and not something that looks like 12 gauge and has some sort of dialectic tube running through the middle? I don't know. But what I hear is noticeable, and again, I was happy before - but all this discussion and I had to start playing with wires. Jeesh.
However, this will take some working with. It's stiff and sort of unruly especially in this long of a run. I may try braiding them as well.
Made these because I had the 12g wire laying around and I was bored:
View attachment 1666537
And when asked about their sound...
Lol.I am sitting in a lab waiting for a blood draw and everybody looked at me when I started laughing at your post!
I have some Belden 16AWG speaker wire. I also have some 10AWG Belden speaker wire. I will use a 10’ length of each kind. Using a 1.5V AA alkaline battery first I’m going to measure the voltage of the battery with my DMM and write it down. Then I will connect the battery at one end of the 16AWG and measure the voltage at the opposite end and write it down. Then I will do the same for the 10AWG. Does anyone disagree that this wouldn’t be a valid test to determine voltage drop between the two different gauge wires?