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Sub connection to Kenwood KA-8100

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with both turned off if, ......the outputs on your sub ,,,,,,,,are just a continuation of the input jacks signal on the sub, then take a 2 rca cables run 1 from receiver pre OUT.s plug into sub INPUTS then sub OUTPUTS ......to receiver power IN.........make sure your sub outputs are not a speaker output but a preamp level,
 
"Inputs and outputs are line-level RCA. The outputs are high-passed."

I found this info but I don't know what it means...
 
"Inputs and outputs are line-level RCA. The outputs are high-passed."

I found this info but I don't know what it means...

It means that those connections are not speaker level, and can be used as described in the post above.

It also means that the outputs from the sub are carrying only the frequencies that the sub itself is NOT producing. Theoretically this is a good thing. But it also means that all of the frequencies to be amplified by the KA-8100 (including mid-bass, mids, highs, i.e. most of what you hear) would be routed through a high-pass filter in the sub, which would affect sound quality to some unknown degree....whether this is audible, or not, depends on the quality of that filter and will be up to your ears to decide.

The connection method described above would be the simplest way to get the sub involved. The other commonly used connection option would be to use RCA male-male-female Y splitters: 1st male part connected to KA-8100 pre-out, other male part connected to KA-8100 power-in, and female part connected to a separate standard RCA cable which goes to the sub's inputs. This way, the KA-8100 is amplifying the whole signal which means that it would duplicate any frequencies being amplified by the sub. But would avoid the high-pass filter in the sub.

There are pros 'n cons to either method. Be aware that "Power In" is a direct connection to the KA-8100 power amp section with no attenuation, hence caution (known-good cables, double-checking connections, etc) is in order. Always have both units powered off when changing connections. If you do hook-up the sub, keep the KA-8100's metal jumpers for future use by you or some future owner :)


EDIT: what you refer to as bridges are, I am guessing here, the metal jumpers between pre-out and power-in on the KA-8100. They just pull out. If they haven't been removed for many years it may require a good pull to get them out, but they definitely do come out.
 
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"Inputs and outputs are line-level RCA. The outputs are high-passed."

I found this info but I don't know what it means...

Well, you have two ways to connect.
1. Use two patch cords - pre-out to sub in - sub output to amp power in
2. Use two rca Y's - for that you need two of these:

http://www.parts-express.com/audtek...o-dual-rca-male-y-adapter-cable-1-ft--181-451

With these you connect the male connectors to Left pre-out Left power in; Right pre-out Right power in. Once this is done, power on and you should get normal sound from your speakers. If so, now connect an audio patch cord from the open female connectors to the left and right sub inputs.

Like, Roger, I like this way better. It just gives you more flexibility. For example, you can run your system without the sub. Not sure you can using the first method.

Once the sub is connected and powered on, you need to adjust volume, phase and low pass frequency. This takes patience and multiple sound tracks.

Regards,
Jerry
 
roger2 said:
... routed through a high-pass filter in the sub, which would affect sound quality to some unknown degree....whether this is audible, or not, depends on the quality of that filter and will be up to your ears to decide.

...

Of bigger consideration than the quality of the filter, I think, is whether the filter aligns well with the characteristics of the main speakers.
 
Great!! Thanks guys. I've learned a lot from you already.

I envision the Y splitters becoming (acting as) the metal jumpers. Except the Y splitters have a female for a standard RCA to send signal to the sub.

That's what I'll do!

Thanks
 
What frequency does it list for the high pass?

What are the speakers you'd be using in this setup?

I couldn't find info in the frequency of the high pass.
The speakers at the present time are Klipsch RB-51 II bookshelf speakers but who knows what might fall in my lap in the future..
I'm liking the idea of not using the subs filter at all...
 
I couldn't find info in the frequency of the high pass.
The speakers at the present time are Klipsch RB-51 II bookshelf speakers but who knows what might fall in my lap in the future..
I'm liking the idea of not using the subs filter at all...

Certainly your call, but with a bookshelf speaker there is very valid point to unburden them by not sending frequencies they can't reproduce well.

It's rather cliche, but trying it both ways is pretty valid in this case. Knowing the HPF would help but if it's not listed it's not listed.
 
Certainly your call, but with a bookshelf speaker there is very valid point to unburden them by not sending frequencies they can't reproduce well.

It's rather cliche, but trying it both ways is pretty valid in this case. Knowing the HPF would help but if it's not listed it's not listed.

Good point. Couldn't hurt to try it both ways to compare....

Thanks
 
Of bigger consideration than the quality of the filter, I think, is whether the filter aligns well with the characteristics of the main speakers.

It could be a factor ....if the sub had no crossover frequently adjustment knob. Even without the adjustment, I disagree that how well the filter "aligns with the main speakers" is a bigger consideration, although I do agree that it would be more significant in that case.

The sub could possibly employ cheap or inferior components, or poor design, in its HPF as what happens in the main speakers (fed through the sub's line outs) may not have been a high priority of the sub manufacturer. The intent of my post was simply to make the OP aware of the possibility, as it is not possible to speak in certain terms here. Depending on the ear of the listener and the quality of the main speakers, neither of which is known, sound quality could be compromised by the sub's HPF. Remember, the frequencies produced by the main amp/speakers contains the bulk of the audible frequency range including the frequencies to which human hearing is most sensitive.
 
It could be a factor ....if the sub had no crossover frequently adjustment knob. Even without the adjustment, I disagree that how well the filter "aligns with the main speakers" is a bigger consideration, although I do agree that it would be more significant in that case.

The sub could possibly employ cheap or inferior components, or poor design, in its HPF as what happens in the main speakers (fed through the sub's line outs) may not have been a high priority of the sub manufacturer. The intent of my post was simply to make the OP aware of the possibility, as it is not possible to speak in certain terms here. Depending on the ear of the listener and the quality of the main speakers, neither of which is known, sound quality could be compromised by the sub's HPF. Remember, the frequencies produced by the main amp/speakers contains the bulk of the audible frequency range including the frequencies to which human hearing is most sensitive.


Almost always despite a variable Low Pass filter, the High Pass filter is a fixed value.

About the quality of stuff like that I used to get wrapped around that wheel. For a while though, my attitude has been different.

For example, I don't care if the signal runs though a spool of bailing wire, as long as the net result of all factors come out as an improvement. In other words, unburdening the bookshelves from reproducing frequencies better left to the sub may more than offset any change imposed by going through the HPF. This sort of thing is why trying all options where possible is a good way to go.
 
That is good information QuarterCuban. But, depending on how particular you are, it might be good to try both connection methods. Assuming that you are motivated enough to find and purchase the RCA Y-splitters.

As I said in my first post, there are pros 'n cons to either connection method. IMO a 85Hz high pass is not a deal maker or a deal breaker, even for bookshelves. A lot depends on speaker placement and also how loud you like to listen.
 
85Hz isn't too bad. I was hoping it wouldn't be something like 120Hz.

Don't know which you will ultimately prefer, but I think it's worth trying. Especially if you like to get cranky with the system every now and then.

I do like it cranky most of the time! Just like the commercial, "Hey is that Freedom Rock man?... Well then TURN IT UP MAN!" :-D


I assume 85Hz allows more of the mid range frequency to reach the speakers than say 120Hz? Or do I have it backwards?....
 
The numerical range of what it bass, what is midrange, etc. is a bit subjective but there are some general guidelines if you search about.

85Hz I would call still in the bass or upper bass region. The problem with 120Hz is usually that's around where it becomes easier to localize the sound coming from the sub.

Why high pass can help if you like to crank it up is that it will largely mitigate (potential/risk of) over-excursion of the woofer during those cranky sessions.
 
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