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SX-1010 won't Power On...

D.E.K said:
Could someone tell me how the DESOLDERING section works on this unit? What is the principle?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rework-System-S...00184QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
Click to expand...

D.E.K.

You don't want that one for the kind of stuff you are doing. It's a hot air desoldering station intended for surface mount components. It blows very hot air onto the tiny legs of surface mount components so the component can be lifted off the board and then solder wick is generally used to clean up the pads once the component has been removed. It would be more suited to much more modern and especially digital equipment.

If you want to go the rout of having a rework station, you would be much better off with something like this (no affiliation):

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-in-1-rework-s...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:50

or this

http://cgi.ebay.com/PACE-SOLDER-AND...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:50


They both have temperature controlled soldering irons and a desoldering iron wich is basically a solderong iron with a hollow tip and a button controlled (or foot pedal or trigger controlled) vacuum. You heat up the solder, press the button and the solder is sucked into a glass chamber with a filter inside. Once in a while you just need to empty the solder out.

Again, if you decide to go this rout, be aware that some of these stations require a connection to an air compressor (they use venturi action to create suction) as opposed to having an internal vacuum pump. So, read the description carefully.
 
Ah, exactly what I was after. Thanks a lot xl. I wasn't going to get anything that sort but I wanted to find out what they are all about.
 
Mark, I came across a slight problem with the order. Mouser didn't have the part I post below and the expected date was somewhere in June.

647-UPW1A101MDD 100uF 10V 105c 8
Nichicon Low Impedance Radial Aluminum Electrolytic
Capacitors - 105Degree
This product is expected to be in stock by 05-06-09.

The only replacement that had the exact specs was the 647-UHE1A101MDD which you can check at http://ca.mouser.com:80/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsCnlYck6hSqI0r1J4ERVQaUFSQ/BOxcAU= so I went ahead and replaced them. The only difference I can see between them is the replacement being slightly taller and leaner in size and operating at a maximum -40 C instead of -55C, temperatures at which I don't think the receiver will ever run. I hope it is compatible, if it's not, we're lacking eight (8) 647-UPW1A101MDD's.
 
That's fine, in the future, higher capacitor voltages can be easily substituted - I noticed lately mouser seemed pretty low on the 6.3v and 10v caps I wanted.

I hope in the off time, you had been doing a lot of cleaning and salt removal.
 
I haven't done any cleaning at all. I was going to do that after I remove the old components and before soldering on the new ones.
 
No no, not being contrary. I just don't want to poke around the unit twice. I will be messing around with it while recapping it anyway. I don't want to break any precious wiring etc.
 
Okay, just trying to figure out what exactly you meant by "That's fine, in the future, higher capacitor voltages can be easily substituted - I noticed lately mouser seemed pretty low on the 6.3v and 10v caps I wanted"
 
Mark, the parts are in. WHACKLOAD of 'em too. Here are a few scans of the documentation that came in the box. Plus I have the spares from the PP Board, so we're pretty much covered. I also got a desoldering gun (SPECIAL THANKS TO RUFFIAN FOR GOING OUT OF HIS WAY) with a continuous vacuum suction which will make things much easier, faster and cleaner for me. I suggest that we start with the PA Boards, what do you say?

MouserOrderDocument00000105March200.jpg


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MouserOrderDocument00000605March200.jpg
 
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sx 1010

i have an sx 1010 and was wondering if it may benefit the operation if i was to solder all of the bind post wiring in the unit? i have found a few that didnt seem to be real tight, and the boards that i have installed i had to solder anyway. i have no idea what kind of tool they wrap the wiring with. i tried hemostats with no luck
 
The missing trace is the reason why your solder is not being held. Now you're down to the board itself. Here's the simple description to fix the problem.
 

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D.E.K said:
Yeah speaking of wrap-on wires, I just broke one.
Click to expand...

No biggie. I don't know if Mark will object to this but I been soldering wire wraps to the post that I removed for repair after cleaning the post itself so the solder will flow on it well. I personally don't see the benefit myself to purchase wire wrapping tools. I don't exactly favor wire wrapping techniques. I had a color TV years ago and it keeps flickering for sometime. I never figured it out until I started trading the tv for the camera. Before I did that, I soldered ALL wire wrapping post and voila, the TV was perfect. I learned something then.
 
You're the man. Will try it next weekend. Meanwhile I broke one wrap-on cable like I said in my previous post. I tried to solder it back on the lead but it is quite stubbarn. Solder won't stay. Also, one lead of D8 (between pins 11 and 13) all of a sudden broke. Apparently it got brittle at some point. So I replaced it with a 512-1N4004. I am back into big time frustration again. But that'll pass I know. I just need to step away from the receiver for a week or so, besides I am back to work tomorrow so I don't have much time to work on it this weekend.
 
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Yes, it can get real frustrating. Especially when you feel wanting to use the equipment but all this futzing popping up can get weary(been there, done that). So, your suggestion to yourself is a good idea to do it next week. Relax for now.:yes:
 
Oh did I mention, I got sound (FM Station) on one channel last night on the headphones. It lasted until the relay clicked out again heh.
 
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