SX-1080 High End Muffled / Protection Circuit Comes On at High Volume
- Thread starter Grog
- Start date
Grog
Loot Galoot
Polarity Question
Hi Guys,
Working on the AWH-071 Power Amplifier Assembly today. Mark you recommended the 667-ECQ-E2224KF Panasonic Suppression Film Capacitor in location C11, replacing an electrolytic.
See pic below and attached data sheet. Maybe I'm missing it but - do these have a polarity?
Hi Guys,
Working on the AWH-071 Power Amplifier Assembly today. Mark you recommended the 667-ECQ-E2224KF Panasonic Suppression Film Capacitor in location C11, replacing an electrolytic.
See pic below and attached data sheet. Maybe I'm missing it but - do these have a polarity?
Attachments
Grog
Loot Galoot
One overlooked Cap
Hi There,
Do you see that little blue cap which is soldered in between two black wires at the top right of the picture shown in Post # 38 above? It is a 1 uf 80 volt cap.
Should I order a 647-UPW2A010MDD ( same as cap C6 in the AWM-120 Protection and Surge Killer Assembly )?
It would be a 1 uf 100 volt.
Hi There,
Do you see that little blue cap which is soldered in between two black wires at the top right of the picture shown in Post # 38 above? It is a 1 uf 80 volt cap.
Should I order a 647-UPW2A010MDD ( same as cap C6 in the AWM-120 Protection and Surge Killer Assembly )?
It would be a 1 uf 100 volt.
Hoodcom
Well-Known Member
I don't think those have polarity, if I remember correctly.
Grog
Loot Galoot
This thing is totally different looking than an electrolytic. Can't remember what Mark said was the reason for the change.
Mark when you are able, could you confirm and I have a couple posts above for you. One is to confirm the replacement for that 1 uf 80 volt that I found at the bottom of one of the ACH-085 filter caps.
Thanks!
Mark when you are able, could you confirm and I have a couple posts above for you. One is to confirm the replacement for that 1 uf 80 volt that I found at the bottom of one of the ACH-085 filter caps.
Thanks!
goat67
Addicted Member
No they do not have polarity hook up either way
goat67
Addicted Member
Yes use the same type a film cap for 1 uf 80 volt at the bottom of one of the ACH-085 filter caps.
See my next post for part replacment
Last edited:
goat67
Addicted Member
I would order this a film cap 667-ECQ-E1105KF and just to be sure order the other electro UPW cap 647-UPW2A010MDD just in case the leads on the film are not long enough
It bypasses the -60v power line's picked up noise between the power supply board and the protection board. It eventually feeds to the -13v zener regulator.
100 v is appropriate, and it doesn't need to be a film cap, but it can be. There is an additional 10uf cap at the IC chip where the ultimate incoming voltage is -7 volts.
Grog
Loot Galoot
Got 'er Done!!
I finished everything tonight, de-oxited all the pots and levers and buttons and worked them all 20 + times each then used faderlube.
I re-assembled everything and plugged it in and turned on the power - everything lighted up and nothing smoked or went *pop*.
So I put it back together and I'm listening to it right now.
I didn't do the tuner board - I chickened out. I think I'll bring that to a pro. I have all the caps here though.
My finishing question is regarding the idle current / DC offset etc. I only went through the receiver and replaced all the electrolytic capacitors including the big ACH-085 filter caps.
My question: Should I bring it in and get the idle current and center voltage checked? Would replacing the caps affect this?
Lastly, thanks Mark for all your help. Working through that caps list and recommending the caps to buy and even giving me model numbers was above and beyond. I hope the caps list I provided goes on your shelf for future use.
To all the other guys that jumped in, I'm so grateful for the nuggets of knowledge. What a great community.
BTW - this was the first time I ever did anything like this.
So far all functions are working flawlessly. :yippy:
Cheers!
I finished everything tonight, de-oxited all the pots and levers and buttons and worked them all 20 + times each then used faderlube.
I re-assembled everything and plugged it in and turned on the power - everything lighted up and nothing smoked or went *pop*.
So I put it back together and I'm listening to it right now.
I didn't do the tuner board - I chickened out. I think I'll bring that to a pro. I have all the caps here though.
My finishing question is regarding the idle current / DC offset etc. I only went through the receiver and replaced all the electrolytic capacitors including the big ACH-085 filter caps.
My question: Should I bring it in and get the idle current and center voltage checked? Would replacing the caps affect this?
Lastly, thanks Mark for all your help. Working through that caps list and recommending the caps to buy and even giving me model numbers was above and beyond. I hope the caps list I provided goes on your shelf for future use.
To all the other guys that jumped in, I'm so grateful for the nuggets of knowledge. What a great community.
BTW - this was the first time I ever did anything like this.
So far all functions are working flawlessly. :yippy:
Cheers!
I finished everything tonight, de-oxited all the pots and levers and buttons and worked them all 20 + times each then used faderlube.
I re-assembled everything and plugged it in and turned on the power - everything lighted up and nothing smoked or went *pop*.
So I put it back together and I'm listening to it right now.
I didn't do the tuner board - I chickened out. I think I'll bring that to a pro. I have all the caps here though.
My finishing question is regarding the idle current / DC offset etc. I only went through the receiver and replaced all the electrolytic capacitors including the big ACH-085 filter caps.
My question: Should I bring it in and get the idle current and center voltage checked? Would replacing the caps affect this?
Lastly, thanks Mark for all your help. Working through that caps list and recommending the caps to buy and even giving me model numbers was above and beyond. I hope the caps list I provided goes on your shelf for future use.
To all the other guys that jumped in, I'm so grateful for the nuggets of knowledge. What a great community.
BTW - this was the first time I ever did anything like this.
So far all functions are working flawlessly. :yippy:
Cheers!
Hello Grog. I have a Pioneer SX-1080 as well that I purchased back in January. The very first thing I did was set the idle current adjustment and DC bias to spec. It's very easy, all you need to do it is some gator clips, a Digital Multimeter and a long thin flat head screw driver. You do not need to pay anybody to do it. But you must be very careful when you do it otherwise you'll fry the power amp. (thats what the gator clips are for!)
I had the same overload protection problem with my SX-980 when turning up the volume. I strongly believe that the DC bias/idle current is the reason you are unable to drive the amplifier as loud as you wish. I have set the idle current/DC bias on Pioneer SX receivers a few times so if you have questions about it I can try my best to answer them.
I must commend you on your efforts in recapping the SX-1080. I have been much too intimidated to do this but definitely plan on doing it at some point in the future. My question is - what did the total cost of all capacitors end up being for you?
goat67
Addicted Member
I finished everything tonight, de-oxited all the pots and levers and buttons and worked them all 20 + times each then used faderlube.
I re-assembled everything and plugged it in and turned on the power - everything lighted up and nothing smoked or went *pop*.
So I put it back together and I'm listening to it right now.
I didn't do the tuner board - I chickened out. I think I'll bring that to a pro. I have all the caps here though.
My finishing question is regarding the idle current / DC offset etc. I only went through the receiver and replaced all the electrolytic capacitors including the big ACH-085 filter caps.
My question: Should I bring it in and get the idle current and center voltage checked? Would replacing the caps affect this?
Lastly, thanks Mark for all your help. Working through that caps list and recommending the caps to buy and even giving me model numbers was above and beyond. I hope the caps list I provided goes on your shelf for future use.
To all the other guys that jumped in, I'm so grateful for the nuggets of knowledge. What a great community.
BTW - this was the first time I ever did anything like this.
So far all functions are working flawlessly. :yippy:
Cheers!
Glad to hear it is working.
Yes you should have the adjustments done.
You do not need to bring it in to have the adjustments done you can do them
All you need is a Digital Multi Meter (DMM). Do you have one?
Grog
Loot Galoot
Cost of Recapping / Setting currents
Hi acdc and goat,
The cost of recapping was quite minimal until I decided to replace the big ACH-085 22000uf filter caps. They were hard to find but I found Digi-Key had one that works - their Item Number 565-3301-ND. It is a 22000uf 100 volt cap.
Here are my total invoices:
Main Order - Mouser $ 44.48 ( 98% of the total caps for all the boards - 20.00 of this was FEDEX shipping cost )
Second Order - Mouser $ 22.25 ( this was a follow on order for 3 caps I forgot to order - there are two identical power amp boards and I pulled a DUH NOOBIE and bought only the caps for the one side - 20.00 of this was shipping cuz I wanted it fast and paid for FEDEX )
Third Order - Digi-Key $ 140.14 ( for the big filter caps, tax and shipping )
So it cost me around 68 bucks for all the caps with shipping costs, but ballooned to 200 bucks when I added the big ones. You can save a lot if you just select USPS shipping.
I put together a caps list and Mark tweaked it with model numbers from Mouser. Go back to the bottom of the first page on this thread and you'll find it in his post and the file is called "sx-1080 caps mtf rev 1.zip "
I'm not sure about setting the current etc. I don't have a multimeter. They are cheap so I'll decide today what I am doing.
Hi acdc and goat,
The cost of recapping was quite minimal until I decided to replace the big ACH-085 22000uf filter caps. They were hard to find but I found Digi-Key had one that works - their Item Number 565-3301-ND. It is a 22000uf 100 volt cap.
Here are my total invoices:
Main Order - Mouser $ 44.48 ( 98% of the total caps for all the boards - 20.00 of this was FEDEX shipping cost )
Second Order - Mouser $ 22.25 ( this was a follow on order for 3 caps I forgot to order - there are two identical power amp boards and I pulled a DUH NOOBIE and bought only the caps for the one side - 20.00 of this was shipping cuz I wanted it fast and paid for FEDEX )
Third Order - Digi-Key $ 140.14 ( for the big filter caps, tax and shipping )
So it cost me around 68 bucks for all the caps with shipping costs, but ballooned to 200 bucks when I added the big ones. You can save a lot if you just select USPS shipping.
I put together a caps list and Mark tweaked it with model numbers from Mouser. Go back to the bottom of the first page on this thread and you'll find it in his post and the file is called "sx-1080 caps mtf rev 1.zip "
I'm not sure about setting the current etc. I don't have a multimeter. They are cheap so I'll decide today what I am doing.
Plenty of threads on DMM purchase. Be sure to at least get one with the "diode" test.
Decent sensitivity (and freq response) on the AC voltage ranges will open up more troubleshooting operations to you.
Decent sensitivity (and freq response) on the AC voltage ranges will open up more troubleshooting operations to you.
And if you DO use a screwdriver, put HEATSHRINK on the SHAFT except for the last 1/8" at the tip. this will lessen OOOOOPPPPSSS from slips and keep your costs down to what you've already spent. Like Mark said in a previous post, we've all been there, done that.....some of us more than once. (OK, OK, I admit, I've done more than my share of OOOOOPPPPSSS! 
) But that's how you learn (one way).
Larry
) But that's how you learn (one way).Larry
Grog
Loot Galoot
hmm
The peer pressure ... :scratch2:
Aiight I'm buying the DMM tomorrow.
But I listened to about 8 albums last night at moderate to high volume and this thing has never sounded better. High end is beautiful, the bass seems tighter and the sound is exquisite.
I'm really hoping not to mess with that.
I'll give it a whirl and report back.
Cheers!
The peer pressure ... :scratch2:
Aiight I'm buying the DMM tomorrow.
But I listened to about 8 albums last night at moderate to high volume and this thing has never sounded better. High end is beautiful, the bass seems tighter and the sound is exquisite.
I'm really hoping not to mess with that.
I'll give it a whirl and report back.
Cheers!
When you put new tires on your car, do you not get them balanced? Or get it aligned? Same principle. You put new tires on and balance and align. It'll run without rattling your teeth and leaving parts all over the road....
the amp will run, but it's not running at full potential. It'll shake itself apart (figuratively) soon if you don't at least check the settings and make sure they are in spec.
Larry
the amp will run, but it's not running at full potential. It'll shake itself apart (figuratively) soon if you don't at least check the settings and make sure they are in spec.
Larry