I might have access to a 3D printer here soon. I know how to use solid modelling software, and have designed an enclosure. If all goes well, I'll have one made soon. If not, then I'll probably get something off Amazon and modify it to work.
TDA1541A-R1 & SAA7220P/A DIY DAC from CHINA
- Thread starter drp1003
- Start date
That I understand, but with everything connected? If so it seems a tad high.
dirtyblues
Member
My Philips (rebranded as PHILCO actually) CD player had both IC chips. The SAA7220P/A filter IC and the TDA1541A-R1. I can't remember now, but I think the two together in the DIY DAC sounded better than using the 7220/C that was provided. I wanted to go full vintage anyway, so that's what I did.
Try that. Use BOTH IC chips from your CD player in the DIY DAC - a matched set so to speak, and no worries about counterfeit IC chips either. That just might be the ticket!
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cpt_paranoia
Addicted Member
The A, B & C variants used different digital filter designs. These variants were designed to be used with different designs of imaging filters in the analogue domain (the digital and analogue filters were intended to be complementary, giving the required overall flat response). So, assuming the CD player design followed the guidance for the design of the imaging filter, swapping between A and C versions may give a sub-optimal response.
https://www.dutchaudioclassics.nl/type_differences_saa7220p_a_b_c/
dirtyblues
Member
I'm sorry if this is a stupid question but you replaced 270uF caps with totally different value caps. How does that work?
I have a couple of 10uf/50v Nichicon Muse in my component box, would they be a good replacement?
setup1
Super Member
Yes they will work, but I have a feeling Nichicon Muse are also electrolytics. Best if you use film type caps in the signal path.
Are the Muse caps green? If they are, then I have used such caps before on another project. I have a pair of Nichicon MUSE 100uF 50v on the output of a CD player. In fact I was using them on the PHILCO (PHILIPS) CD player with the TDA chip before it died. Then I moved them over to another CD player. I also replaced the old OP-AMP as well with a new BB OPA2132. That CD player sounds amazing now.
The MUSE caps should be a very good upgrade, I suggest trying them out. The problem though is that you have to solder them in. And the more times you solder/unsolder caps, the more chances you have of degrading the PCB. So just be careful.
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dirtyblues
Member
Yes, the Muse are green.
I might try that at some point.
I've already replaced the opamps with 604s
I might try that at some point.
I've already replaced the opamps with 604s
One Year and One Month Later...
Hello, again.
I finally got around to building a case - more like assembling, but anyway - for my TDA1541 DIY DAC.
I bought the case, the plug-in receptacle, and the 120vac switch from Amazon. The blue plastic rear panel I designed and fabricated using 3D design software and a 3D printer. I had a bunch of brass standoffs and screws laying around from old PCs I've collected and parted out over the years. I used them to mount the PCB and the power supply to the chassis. I had to line up the rear of the DAC PCB with the chassis, then I took the necessary measurements for the 3D printed rear panel. Everything turned out quite nice. I bought rubber feet for it from ACE hardware.
FINISHED!!! Finally
Hello, again.
I finally got around to building a case - more like assembling, but anyway - for my TDA1541 DIY DAC.
I bought the case, the plug-in receptacle, and the 120vac switch from Amazon. The blue plastic rear panel I designed and fabricated using 3D design software and a 3D printer. I had a bunch of brass standoffs and screws laying around from old PCs I've collected and parted out over the years. I used them to mount the PCB and the power supply to the chassis. I had to line up the rear of the DAC PCB with the chassis, then I took the necessary measurements for the 3D printed rear panel. Everything turned out quite nice. I bought rubber feet for it from ACE hardware.
FINISHED!!! Finally
Attachments
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ssmith3046
Super Member
I bought a refurbished Philips 680 CD player recently that has a 1541-R1 in it. Really sounds great and couldn't be happier with the playback I'm hearing.
ssmith3046
Super Member
I have a friend who is ready to sell his Marantz CD-80 with the TD1541 single crown. He lives out of state and I've never listened to it. I know it is well cared for and works as it should with excellent build quality. I'm wondering how it would compare with my Philips 680 with the R1 in it?
setup1
Super Member
I'm fortunate to have an 'S1 and to my ears it offers a slight improvement in definition and detail over regular production TDA1541s. However, the difference can increase or decrease (or not at all) depending on system context + personal perception/listening bias. Most of my comparison was done in the context of my DIY nosTDA1541tube DAC.
ssmith3046
Super Member
Thanks for your input. I know that there are many variables at play so it's impossible to just say, yes the a single crown sounds better than a R1. Thanks again, I'm going to check out your link.
mr.muddles
Super Member
I have an NEC cd player that won't work with one the TDA chips in it... really tempted to get one of these boards soon...
setup1
Super Member
Yes!
