• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

That JBL Walnut finish

RD Airlines said:
Hello All...

I'm just completing a speaker restoration (4333a) and I'm attempting to recreate the JBL recommended finish. The BLO/Turp mixture isn't possible because I live in the Republic of California and turp isn't sold here due to the VOCs. I'd love to hear what people's experiences are with:
  1. turp alternatives? (mineral spirits?), or
  2. no turp at all (just BLO)?
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
I have used both turpintine/blo and mineral siprits/blo. There is no visible difference between the two once finished, I prefer MS because the odor is much more bearable. I could apply it in my living room if I wanted.
 
Thank you for your replies.

Well... it looks like mineral spirits are also banned. It appears that the products that create the thinner / deeper penetrating element of the JBL formula (turp or mineral spirits) both off gas so much that those of us in CA (SoCal) are out of luck. It looks like another method is going to be the only way.

Danish Oil ?
 
Mr Boochie said:
I have a pair of L-166, about the same vintage as your monitors. The walnut veneer appears to be the same color & tint.

View attachment 1722258 View attachment 1722260
Click to expand...
I too have 166's. Your cabinets look beautiful, what do you use on them? Mine, like your's are near mint. I use a yearly application of Restore-a-Finish and Feed & wax.
This keeps them looking great, but I'm also open to better suggestions. My next cleaning I'll probably try the linseed oil/turpentine route that was mentioned here.
 
Just a step sideways here , if your cabinets have a significant build up of all the usual gunk , consider 'scraping' the cabinets.
Get some picture glass and smash it. Pick a piece with a gentle convex curve and use that as a scaper.
Its a very traditional method , very controlable and leaves the woof with a lovely silk sheen that just pops through your Danish , Beeswax or whatever.
It's fast too !!



You can see even after a few passes in the second vid the wood surface starts to have more 3D look about it.. That's called 'Chatoyance' lterally meaning cats eye.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Chatoyance&FORM=HDRSC2

Antique Mahogany will often still display that holographic effect simply because the oldies used broken glass for scraping.
Once you get the hang of it there is no subsequent sanding required , the dust just makes the cut wood surface dull by clogging the capilliaries.

Try it on some old but good quality scrap , you will never look back.

M
 
RD Airlines said:
Well... it looks like mineral spirits are also banned. It appears that the products that create the thinner / deeper penetrating element of the JBL formula (turp or mineral spirits) both off gas so much that those of us in CA (SoCal) are out of luck.
Click to expand...

Isn't there a sketchy neighborhood where some guy on the corner can hook you up with high-VOC solvents?
 
Well... it looks like mineral spirits are also banned. It appears that the products that create the thinner / deeper penetrating element of the JBL formula (turp or mineral spirits) both off gas so much that those of us in CA (SoCal) are out of luck.


Hmmm Anyone who has driven I99 in the summer will tell you all about volatile gas emissions.
 
+1 on wood scrapers. I've used them for years, though modern veneers are so thin it still bears careful watching.
Metal card scrapers are cheap and fairly easy to re-edge.
 
When I got my mint pair of 4430's shipped from Cedar Falls Iowa to Southern NM about 8 years ago, I had noticed one speaker had the lower 1/2 of one side faded and a lighter color. Had me worried for a little bit, considering this was the only minor quibble with such an outstanding pair, and an outstanding purchase which made an 1100 mile trip unscathed via RL Carriers Freight in a 53' Trailer, strapped to a Pallet. (was a day late, the truck was a mere 7 miles away delivering first at Holloman AFB, but didn't make it to my destination, that sure did make me itchy and nervous!)

The reason why, this particular pair of speakers never were used in a studio ever, but in a company's conference room. That side was constantly hit by the sun-uv, and bleached the wood.

My solution and fix, one application of Howards Restore a Finish, and then cause not quite effective was one application of Old English Dark Oil. I applied only to the lower faded area first, applied, blended, and wiped right after. The object of course was eliminate this tint-color difference, and it worked perfectly!

One they got the good feeding they desperately needed, they were immaculate.

After, then periodically I would use Howards Feed and Wax every couple months.
 
Macaroonie said:
Just a step sideways here , if your cabinets have a significant build up of all the usual gunk , consider 'scraping' the cabinets.
Get some picture glass and smash it. Pick a piece with a gentle convex curve and use that as a scaper.
Its a very traditional method , very controlable and leaves the woof with a lovely silk sheen that just pops through your Danish , Beeswax or whatever.
It's fast too !!



You can see even after a few passes in the second vid the wood surface starts to have more 3D look about it.. That's called 'Chatoyance' lterally meaning cats eye.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Chatoyance&FORM=HDRSC2

Antique Mahogany will often still display that holographic effect simply because the oldies used broken glass for scraping.
Once you get the hang of it there is no subsequent sanding required , the dust just makes the cut wood surface dull by clogging the capilliaries.

Try it on some old but good quality scrap , you will never look back.

M
Click to expand...
Just want to say it looks like he's removing a decent bit of material with those glass scrapers. Almost more like fine planing the wood than just cleaning it.
I also imagine it wouldn't be hard to accidentally gouge the nice flat sides or top of the speakers with a corner of the glass and a little misapplied force, especially if it's not something you've done much before. So fine for smaller sections that just fit the width of the glass, but larger flat areas would be at risk.
 
Thet spanish dude is giving it full force for the purposes of the demo. In practice you can be as gentle as you like and using shallower angle reduces the ' cut' as it were.
Edges are simple you just make gentle passes at an angle coming off the edge. Or you can reverse and start coming on to the surface .
If you have any beater speakers give it a try on the bottoms.
 
I don't want to intrude on anyone, but both oak and walnut are photosensitive woods and darken with age. No speaker cabinets from that era were ever varnished or oiled. They used a wax on them. You can get wood paste wax of excellent quality from Rocklers. It smells great too. It will leave just a very gentle sheen and protects the wood from sunlight and moisture. It's all I used on a giant pair of Imperial 9s to put them back to factory finish. I have used them on cabinets for Altecs and vintage JBL.
 
rob Brandt said:
No speaker cabinets from that era were ever varnished or oiled. They used a wax on them.
Click to expand...
I would like to know what you are basing this claim on, because based on the historical documentation I have seen most American made speaker cabinets from the '50s-'70s left the factory with an oiled finish, JBL and Altec most certainly. To quote JBL's original cabinet maintenance guide that I previously linked on this thread, "Most JBL enclosures are sanded and rubbed until they are mirror smooth, then hand finished with oil".
 
I know what it says, but you can't get the products they used anymore than you can get the type of lacquer that Fender and Gibson used on their guitars which gave them the sound that is so cherished and highly prized. A closer approximate to the finish that they came with is a good paste wax. It takes much longer to apply and has to be worked into the wood, but it does a better job in the long run.
 
rob Brandt said:
I know what it says, but you can't get the products they used anymore than you can get the type of lacquer that Fender and Gibson used on their guitars which gave them the sound that is so cherished and highly prized. A closer approximate to the finish that they came with is a good paste wax. It takes much longer to apply and has to be worked into the wood, but it does a better job in the long run.
Click to expand...

To be clear, you initially said that they did not use an oil finish. Now you are saying that they did, but that the oil they used is no longer available? This seems to be in contradiction to JBL's own documentation for how to replace/refresh the original finish. I think that boiled linseed oil and turpentine are still widely available, altho restricted in some states?
 
Whatever--they did nt use a product such Danish or watco oil finishing product. The wax will more closely approximate the finish that was there in that time period.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom