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The Idiot's Guide to Using DeOxit (revisited)

Hello all. I am just sort of learning about deoxit. Ive read this posting, and been on the deoxit site. I have gotten into restoring old turntables, just cleaning and a couple minor mechanical repairs, but I want to dive just
a little into the electronics, meaning cleaning pots and such. I also have a small old analog mixer that probably could use this type of treatment on the faders and elsewhere, as it has some issues. My question is, Im still confused about what exactly I should buy. I see the sprays - seems like there are 2 or 3 different ones, and also the red bottle stuff "d100" non spray. terms on their products like "contact enhancer, cleaner, rejuvenator, , etc etc etc. Reading things on their site and watching the videos of all their various products didnt really help me decide, just left me more confused with what will best apply to my uses.
If Im going to get into some turntables (speed adj pots and such, and maybe a mixer and the odd amplifier), which deoxit products should I be buying to have on hand?
 
I have an actual local Radio Shack (crazy I know!) and they had DS-5 but no GS-5.

I’m completely brand new to all this so I have no idea if the RS version is even safe (won’t damage equipment), not to mention any idea how it’d perform as compared to the GS-5.

Help and guidance would be appreciated. Thanks!


image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
No idea, sorry. I'm pretty certain that the DeOxit's are proprietary and while there have been comparisons done and hypothesis raised about content of the solutions earlier in this thread, nothing concrete so it would be difficult to confirm or even deny that what you have is "the goods," so to speak. The real deal is reasonably priced where you can find it.

I'm blown away that you actually have Radio Shack nearby! I wish I still had the one I went to around here. It was convenient when needed, but it wasn't often for me. But I liked the old-school ones before the cell phone selling began. It was their demise.

Anyway, good luck. The real stuff is great and easy to use and the testimonials here are bona-fide.
 
I used the D5 & gold spray for the first time yesterday on the tone control pots on a newer integrated (ChiFi) amp. Followed all the instructions, and at first, while turning the knobs to work in the solution, everything was very smooth. After letting it sit & putting the cover back on, there was what I can best describe as mechanical resistance while moving the knobs, almost "gritty" like very fine sandpaper.

This thread is far too lengthy to read all the way through, so what's up with my situation?
 
warhorse said:
D5 is for pots and general cleaning
Gold is contact enhancing (I personally use Stabilant 22)
Fader Lube is for slides like that on the SL1200
Click to expand...

Thank you - this was the advice I used recently.

Also thanks to everyone for this thread. It's proven to be invaluable to me!
 
I'd like to try using a syringe to control the squirt of the fluid into pots in tight places -- where does one get a syringe? Can you just go into a pharmacy and ask for one?
 
rmunson said:
I'd like to try using a syringe to control the squirt of the fluid into pots in tight places -- where does one get a syringe? Can you just go into a pharmacy and ask for one?
Click to expand...
Your local Tractor Supply should have syringe's and hubs to go with them , usually around where they keep the livestock medicine .
 
Guys

Where can I get the 2 foot extension tube for an older deoxit that has the removable red tube?

thx

bob
 
I’ve found a neat trick for stuck knobs. I’ve run across knobs that appear to be glued on. Either by the factory, or maybe a previous user.

Anyway, a heat gun (like for shrink tubing) for about 10 seconds has helped me out on the last two stubborn receivers I had. Very, very careful where I direct it and how long I dwell.
 
steelgtr said:
Guys

Where can I get the 2 foot extension tube for an older deoxit that has the removable red tube?

thx

bob
Click to expand...
Looks like this question was not replied to.

They are sold by Parts Express, both on their website and they sell them on Amazon too

Craig has a very responsive customer service phone line who can direct you to other sellers
 
Triumph65 said:
@drjohnnyfeva - I have a 150 psi compressor. I can probably use the adjustment to crank that thing down to low pressure (20-30 psi) and have all the air I need.

I am curious as are you about someway to clean gunk off the boards, without damaging anything. Here is a picture of a STA-2080 board, currently on eBay, original owner. Dirty board.

And the second picture a STA-95 completely restored and meticulously cleaned, also currently on eBay. Absolutely gorgeous restoration.
Click to expand...

Some may scorn me for this or at least question it. .. But the "freon" tape head cleaner I found always worked as a good circuit board cleaner that did not attack components, plastic, or leave any residue. In recent years, I have found a great substitute if no one has tried it. CRC Mass Air Flow Cleaner. It is recommended to clean the very delicate electronic air flow sensor used in all automotive air intakes to sense air flow. I tried it on several old pieces and scarp circuit boards and found no ill affects. Since then, I have used it on many vintage circuit boards. Used with a soft brush it will also clean away residual flux with a few applications or use after isopropyl alcohol.
It works very well as a final rinse, evaporates very quickly like freon and leaves no residue.
 
drjohnnyfeva said:
It's even better if you have a compressor! The air cans work, of course, but stores question you as you check out if you buy more than one due to people using them as inhalants to get a buzz. smh. Alas... the cans work, but Amazon has cheap compressors that work really well. Plus, that's a whole new bit of tools for you to get into after you've cleaned the component.

I'll leave it to others to weigh in on cleaning any stickiness on the board from being in a house where there were smokers or other contaminants. I was careful and used 90% isopropyl alcohol on a q-tip, but maybe someone knows better. I would have loved to just spray something on the board and carefully wiped it off... I wasn't aware of anything, so I erred on the side of caution and just took my time with the IPA.
Click to expand...
I'm gonna throw this out there just because: for removing smoke contaminants on solid surfaces, Windex works wonders. I can't speak to its effects on PCBs or components, but it is basically an ammonia/alcohol compound so it should be safe enough.
 
Phase700b said:
CRC Mass Air Flow Cleaner
Click to expand...
. This is mostly isohexane and naphtha. These two cleaners make up about 65% of the total liquid volume. The CRC cleaner according to the MSDS is pretty toxic all things considered. The package has a health hazard rating of 1 and 2s.. or Acute toxicity (oral, Dermal and Inhalation). Not something you want to use in a room. I have this stuff myself in my tool kit and I have used it before for the car.. it's pretty damn potent even in open air. Will it clean it? oh yeah.. no doubt. But you can get isohexane in the CRC Electronic Cleaner cheaper. This cleaner uses isohexane as it's primary plus naphtha but not as aggressively formulated. I happen to use the CRC Electronic Cleaner for some years now and it has not disappointed for overall electronics cleaning. I guess it would depend on the level of "gunk" and type. For flux and general cleaning, I've always used simple green and distilled water. If the flux is localized, I just use alcohol. The simple green/distilled water is pretty much what we used at Hughes for our water bath cleaning of PWBs when they were done being loaded. This company repairs PWBs and recommends baking soda for aggressive cleaning.. I've never tried it but they should know since it's their business. https://gesrepair.com/clean-circuit-board/
 
Mike Sweeney said:
. This is mostly isohexane and naphtha. These two cleaners make up about 65% of the total liquid volume. The CRC cleaner according to the MSDS is pretty toxic all things considered. The package has a health hazard rating of 1 and 2s.. or Acute toxicity (oral, Dermal and Inhalation). Not something you want to use in a room. I have this stuff myself in my tool kit and I have used it before for the car.. it's pretty damn potent even in open air. Will it clean it? oh yeah.. no doubt. But you can get isohexane in the CRC Electronic Cleaner cheaper. This cleaner uses isohexane as it's primary plus naphtha but not as aggressively formulated. I happen to use the CRC Electronic Cleaner /
Click to expand...

Agree. .. I also use CRC Electronic Cleaner and have several cans in stock always. As you say, it' less concentrated.
A repair I just did had a LOT of adhesive residue and electrolyte leakage from two huge 27,000 uf caps on a power supply board.
I always go with 99% iso first and it hardly dented it. Tried the CRC Electronic Cleaner. .. . worked, but very slowly even when scrubbing with my several small brushes. So. . . out came the CRC Manifold Air Flow Sensor Cleaner. That and the brush worked in little time, but still required brushing and it removed some corrosion as well on a ground tab. I've also used straight naphtha at times for some things.

Yes on the water cleaning also. In fact, in the plant that I worked in a water based (with added special detergent) cleaning and water rinse followed the wave soldered PCB that we made for automotive ECM/PCM and even navigation PCB in our avionics department. The company I worked for "spun off" the Hughes work we did way back in the late 80s or early 90s IIRC.
 
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