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The Idiot's Guide to Using DeOxit (revisited)

Well .. . off topic, but yes, experienced the same here. Good times at the "company" till late 80's early '90s at which point I left in '95.
 
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Phase700b said:
Some may scorn me for this or at least question it. .. But the "freon" tape head cleaner I found always worked as a good circuit board cleaner that did not attack components, plastic, or leave any residue. In recent years, I have found a great substitute if no one has tried it. CRC Mass Air Flow Cleaner. It is recommended to clean the very delicate electronic air flow sensor used in all automotive air intakes to sense air flow. I tried it on several old pieces and scarp circuit boards and found no ill affects. Since then, I have used it on many vintage circuit boards. Used with a soft brush it will also clean away residual flux with a few applications or use after isopropyl alcohol.
It works very well as a final rinse, evaporates very quickly like freon and leaves no residue.
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I have a can of that used on my car ..so this is really interesting info ...thanks :beerchug:
 
Wow.

Just read 27 pages, super info, took extensive notes over the last 5 hrs. I have no idea what to do.

Vintage equipment here.

I was doing ok up until the 'don't use D5, etc. on vintage equipment'. That was a curve ball.

I'll re-org my 'notes' tomorrow and see what I come up with. I'll call CAIG too.

Thanks to all!!
 
bluesky said:
Wow.

Just read 27 pages, super info, took extensive notes over the last 5 hrs. I have no idea what to do.

Vintage equipment here.

I was doing ok up until the 'don't use D5, etc. on vintage equipment'. That was a curve ball.

I'll re-org my 'notes' tomorrow and see what I come up with. I'll call CAIG too.

Thanks to all!!
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D5 is what I used. Followed the directions all the way thru. The first unit I did was an auction site special - Fisher 295. Tons of dust inside. Blew that all off and then proceeded with the cleaning using DeOxit D5 and the Deoxit Gold. The thing has been running great as our outside system for around the pool for a couple years now. It's in the pool shed with outdoor Polk speakers mounted to the shed and a subwoofer I have buried in a big flower pot that we put marigolds around - can't see it at all. Sounds fabulous. Good luck.
 
bluesky said:
Wow.

Just read 27 pages, super info, took extensive notes over the last 5 hrs. I have no idea what to do.

Vintage equipment here.

I was doing ok up until the 'don't use D5, etc. on vintage equipment'. That was a curve ball.

I'll re-org my 'notes' tomorrow and see what I come up with. I'll call CAIG too.

Thanks to all!!
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My pot cleaning knowledge stays at Deoxit 5 then Fader F5, not sure either it is still correct or up to date. Lately I am exploring a technics SU-V85A just acquired, found the threaded sleeve broke at the bass pot, the very left one on the pic and exposed the inside of that pot, I just realized how much lubricant grease in there. It makes me wonder how F5 fader to replace the grease after a total D5 cleaning?
ECE27B3F-2DF5-4581-B276-C6EE597FC7DF.jpeg
 
Folks, I need to clean some dirty-sounding rheostats/L-pads on a pair of speakers I'm restoring...

Can anyone reassure me that D5 Deoxit is appropriate for this application? I had someone on Stackexchange warn me that the Deoxit would just strip away all the grease away.
Do I need to apply a grease afterwards if I use Deoxit? And what sort of product would that be?
Thanks!

A photo:
WBhAjOc.jpg
 
I've had a problem with my left channel side not working,,, static, cutting out, etc.When I would adjust the balance it would come & go.So I used deox it on the balance control, it seemed to help slightly. This afternoon while listening to it I was wiping the front off & bumped the function buttons & it started cutting out again. Huh,,,so I deoxed the buttons. Didn't give me any problems for the rest of the afternoon. Anyone else have this happen to them or am I just imaging this?
 
yes, I don't know how exactly but it is possible. some units it is the switch for switching off pre out/main in at the back, some is the tone in or line direct button. I am currently ruining a JVC AX1100, same thing here, I just happened to find out by pushing the line direct pushbutton will cure its channel drop out issue.
 
I think the idea is to CLEAN the unit in the manner the OPer delineated and then to problem solve from there. This is a process for units in regular use AND those experiencing problems and even purchases of old units - - - especially these, imo. This is what most techs will do as a matter of course before embarking on diagnosis of problems and exploring potential repairs.

Taking it as a piece-meal negates the quality of the cleaning that the OP suggests and describes how to do. Trust the cleaning components. There have been many questions about their efficacy but no reports from anyone following the protocol that they were detrimental in any way.
 
This thread is epic! Over 10 years old? Wow!

I don't know if this has already been shared, so I apologise if it has already, but I recently watched this video on YouTube, which states it doesn't matter how much D5 you spray in there, the D5 won't get rid of the black tarnish that deposits on the contacts over time, and if possible it's best to get into to those switches and pots and remove what you can (carefully) using a simple pencil eraser. I just tried this trick using an eraser that is the pencil (ie eraser instead of carbon lead, so it can be sharpened like a pencil, and being thinner is easier to get into exact spaces), on my Sansui AU-222. It works!

 
This may sound bad but.... I am so damn excited !!!! I ordered the service pack with both the red D5 and the green fader F5 off Amazon, and they should be here tomorrow.... I put my Technics SA-929 on the shelf because of a scratchy volume slider and the SA-R477 I picked up to replace it has a scratchy section on the volume knob at the 5 to 5and a half section on it also. I have used both CRC and the cyclo versions in the shop for years...I'm a mechanic... with ok results. So after reading all the comments about this stuff, I had to grab some! Hopefully the 929's volume slider will react to the cleaning and lubrication well... I love that ole beast.:music:
 
lakeeffect said:
It won't work miracles, but it is good stuff. It's worked for me on several pieces, let's hope it does the same for your receiver :D
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OH Yah!!! It worked great!!!
The 929's volume slider was so bad I parked it not too long ago... It would even cut out a channel when you were moving it at times... I had to apply the D5 a few times and work the slider. I could feel it actually cutting through the gunk and corrosion. After a minute or so of working it and reapplying, it started moving nice and smooth. I let it dry for a smoke break and then applied the Green Fader lube. Worked it in and that really made it slide smooth... Powered it up and ...WOW !!!! Like new!!! Now I have to find a set of speaker for it again and set it up next to the R477... Seen a impressive set of Technics SB-5000 speakers nearby on FB marketplace for 200bucks...Just might have to grab them eh :thumbsup:
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MrFlintstone said:
OH Yah!!! It worked great!!!
The 929's volume slider was so bad I parked it not too long ago... It would even cut out a channel when you were moving it at times... I had to apply the D5 a few times and work the slider. I could feel it actually cutting through the gunk and corrosion. After a minute or so of working it and reapplying, it started moving nice and smooth. I let it dry for a smoke break and then applied the Green Fader lube. Worked it in and that really made it slide smooth... Powered it up and ...WOW !!!! Like new!!! Now I have to find a set of speaker for it again and set it up next to the R477... Seen a impressive set of Technics SB-5000 speakers nearby on FB marketplace for 200bucks...Just might have to grab them eh :thumbsup:
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I have that exact Technics unit! I'm going to have to get it out of the closet and clean it up. ;)
 
Great instructions for idiots like myself! Long time owner of vintage equipment but I have never DeOxit anything. I thing I will give it a go on my newly found Onkyo A-10 amp.
 
Very good advice in this thread. I've used DeOxit for years with great success. Today is a good example. I was relaxing enjoying my coffee and listening to Jade Warrior when the left channel started crackling and dropping in and out. I hadn't touched the amp in years so I figured I'd start with the easiest task first. I shut everything down and after it cooled off I pulled each tube and sprayed DeOxit on the prongs and reinserted each one moving the tube in and out of the socket several times before fully seating each one. Ten minutes of light work and the problem is solved. Reheated my coffee and enjoyed the rest of the album. DeOxit belongs in everyone's toolbox if you don't want to pay someone else to do a simple fix on your gear.
 
drjohnnyfeva said:
I have that exact Technics unit! I'm going to have to get it out of the closet and clean it up. ;)
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Yah buddy ...give it a try...Mine was horrible. I took the cover off and hit it from both sides too....I had to work it for a while too...I could feel the gunk breaking up almost every time I worked it. Took almost 5 minutes along with the application of the F5 fader to get it nice and smooth....let it dry a while and gave it a try.... hope it does the trick for you too eh.....I know I love my old 929 and regretted having to set it aside....... it's back in the stack again!
 
Yes , it's Mar 09, 2022, more than 13 years since Arkay's OP. Just spent most of the afternoon reading all 543 posts and many of the links and videos. Most of the questions and experienced answers apply to cleaning up OLD contacts and connections. To the speaker rebuilders and cable makers, and anyone using NEW parts [ rca connectors, binding posts, crimp connectors, quick connects, bare wire etc. ] - have you used, and do you recommend using one of the DeoxIT GOLD products to " improve conductivity and provide long-lasting protection on gold, base metals and other precious metal contacts and connections (gold, silver, rhodium, copper, bronze, nickel, etc.)."
 
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