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The Official Flexy Rack Thread

4Play

Super Member
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There is not one thread devoted to the popular flexy rack. I think we are overdo, and now is the time.

If you have a flexy rack or some variation thereof, post your pics here. This will make searching a lot easier.

Post 'em if you got 'em!! :music:
 
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Mine's pretty rough and ready, MDF shelves. Bottom shelf is just storing bits and pieces. I want to make a shorter wider one as the amp can only fit on the top, as it is.
 
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I cut a 7 ft section of IKEA 1 1/2" kitchen counter top into 4 equal shelves. I used 3/4" threaded rod, rubber coaster cups, fender washers, & casters from Harbor Freight. I used 1 of the 4 shelves for the wall mounted turntable shelf. The Thorens table is sitting one a 30# sand box.

c9c5hrmo6PA62yu7LyoQv7b_C1YnkQf1bYIQtcXhp4U=w891-h594


IMG_5140.JPG
 
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The idea is simple, elegant, infinitely adjustable.

One thing I DID NOT COUNT ON was 7 ply plywood warping.
This is what has happened to mine, and it has become quite ugly. Functional, but ugly.

Since I'm never gonna thin the herd, I don't know what is next for shelving.

Old panorama of my stuff, flexy on the right. Sorry, at work, and all I had on my phone.
 

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The idea is simple, elegant, infinitely adjustable.

One thing I DID NOT COUNT ON was 7 ply plywood warping.
This is what has happened to mine, and it has become quite ugly. Functional, but ugly.

Since I'm never gonna thin the herd, I don't know what is next for shelving.

Old panorama of my stuff, flexy on the right. Sorry, at work, and all I had on my phone.

Type and thickness of the plywood? Finished the same both sides? Span between supports?
 
Type and thickness of the plywood? Finished the same both sides? Span between supports?

3/4''. Not finished at all. Span between supports is 18'', I think. Shelves I believe are 22'' x 22''.

It isn't the weight. They're just curling. Two are curling UP.
 
I cut a 7 ft section of IKEA 1 1/2" kitchen counter top into 4 equal shelves. I used 3/4" threaded rod, rubber coaster cups, fender washers, & casters from Harbor Freight. I used 1 of the 4 shelves for the wall mounted turntable shelf. The Thorens table is sitting one a 30# sand box.

c9c5hrmo6PA62yu7LyoQv7b_C1YnkQf1bYIQtcXhp4U=w891-h594


IMG_5140.JPG

I really like this one, because of the 1-1/2" countertop, but if I might be critical, I would change the casters, maybe do a wood "skirt", the rack looks very nice, but the casters sort of take away some of the beauty. Overall, very nice looking.
 
I like the Ikea one with castors myself. I have some leftovers of that counter material too. :scratch2:

I would just install the castors more inboard so they don't stick out past the edge.
 
3/4''. Not finished at all. Span between supports is 18'', I think. Shelves I believe are 22'' x 22''.

It isn't the weight. They're just curling. Two are curling UP.

Might be heat? Amps or receivers under them? What kind of plywood did you use.

I really like this one, because of the 1-1/2" countertop, but if I might be critical, I would change the casters, maybe do a wood "skirt", the rack looks very nice, but the casters sort of take away some of the beauty. Overall, very nice looking.

I agree it would look better without the casters. I can't inset them for fear of narrowing the footprint and making it tippy. The shelves are only 18" deep. They have to be big for carpet and they are worth their weight in gold for the convenience. Maybe I'll think of some kind of covers. I want to do something for the extended all-thread handles up top too.
 
Might upgrade the top shelf to double thickness someday. Some experimentation with o-ring isolation might be interesting too.

I made my top shelf double thickness 3/4" ply. I used 1" thread rod, left it a little long on the top, and drilled and tapped the end of the top of the rod for 1/4"-20 and then screwed the 2nd top shelf down with countersunk machine screws and also glued it to the 1st top shelf. Made the top of the thing smooth with no protrusions, the edges were finished with 1X2 trim.
 
I like the Ikea one with castors myself...I would just install the castors more inboard so they don't stick out past the edge.

That is what I meant:thmbsp:

...I agree it would look better without the casters. I can't inset them for fear of narrowing the footprint and making it tippy. The shelves are only 18" deep. They have to be big for carpet and they are worth their weight in gold for the convenience. Maybe I'll think of some kind of covers. I want to do something for the extended all-thread handles up top too.

The cover (skirt) can be attached to the outside edges of the lower shelf, that way you don't have to move the casters too far inwards. The cover can also serve as an anti-tipping base.

PVC pipe of the size of your choice, maybe painted in the color of your choice.
See my avatar.

As a mechanical engineer specializing in fluid transfer I know basically every pipe, tubing, and hose there is. Besides PVC and painting it, you can get ornamental 304SS tubing in the diameter of your choice to cover the threaded rods. For example, if you use 5/8" threaded rod with it's corresponding hex nut and a 5/8" x 2" OD x 1/8" Thick fender washer you can use 2-1/4" OD Tubing that will cover the rod/nut/washer, and you can notch the shelves as to seat the tubing. An alternative is 2-1/8" OD Tubing with a .065" wall that will give you 1.995", and the washer will serve as a seat for the tubing (this is a very tight fit and maybe you will have to grind down the washer a little bit).

You can also by-pass the threaded rod idea, buy a piece of nominal dia. 1-1/2" or 2" Sch40S pipe (not tubing), notch the shelves as to fit the pipe ends and you will have a very sturdy rack. 4 legs of 1-1/2" or 2" Sch40S pipe will hold a lot of weight.
 
As a mechanical engineer specializing in fluid transfer I know basically every pipe, tubing, and hose there is. Besides PVC and painting it, you can get ornamental 304SS tubing in the diameter of your choice to cover the threaded rods. For example, if you use 5/8" threaded rod with it's corresponding hex nut and a 5/8" x 2" OD x 1/8" Thick fender washer you can use 2-1/4" OD Tubing that will cover the rod/nut/washer, and you can notch the shelves as to seat the tubing. An alternative is 2-1/8" OD Tubing with a .065" wall that will give you 1.995", and the washer will serve as a seat for the tubing (this is a very tight fit and maybe you will have to grind down the washer a little bit).

You can also by-pass the threaded rod idea, buy a piece of nominal dia. 1-1/2" or 2" Sch40S pipe (not tubing), notch the shelves as to fit the pipe ends and you will have a very sturdy rack. 4 legs of 1-1/2" or 2" Sch40S pipe will hold a lot of weight.

More good ideas!:thmbsp:
 
I just want to cover or finish off the exposed all-thread at the top. Covering the threaded rod looks nicer, but removes the flexy part of the flexy rack because it's no longer easily adjusted just by spinning the nuts. I may replace my TT shelf with a full width sand filled torsion box shelf and add it to my rack. This will only require drilling four holes vs disassembly, pipe cutting and reassembly. Flexy!
 
I made mine to fit below an antique library table (that was being utilized as a tv stand at this point). It was built to fit over the tables leg support bar, and under the table, between its legs, with enough overhead room for a turntable access. Its a three-legger.
The shelves are .70"/18mm birch ply, with maple edge banding. The thread rod and nuts/washers are clad in copper plumbing pipe for the WAF. Tung oil finish.

past life:
IMG_5305JPG.jpg


present life:
DSCN0035.jpg
 
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A bump to keep this thread alive. Let's see how many variations of the flexy rack AK members have made.
 
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