No, and then it would be a PITA to adjust. Maybe you set and forget, but I purposely chose flexy so I could adjust it often.Do you guys think there would be any benefit to using lock washers on the underside of the shelves? I read a couple of comments in other threads about the need to periodically retighten the shelves.
I don't think lock washers would make it any harder to adjust, but I've decided not to use them.No, and then it would be a PITA to adjust. Maybe you set and forget, but I purposely chose flexy so I could adjust it often.
Ah, my bad reading comprehension. I was thinking lock nuts, not washers. Sorry.I don't think lock washers would make it any harder to adjust, but I've decided not to use them.


^ Thereby rendering it no longer a “flexy” rack. The beauty of the all-thread rod is it’s easy to build and easy to adjust for equipment changes.
I should have said “adjusted without equipment removal and disassembly of the rack”.The copper rods wouldn't be permanently affixed....just slipped on.

I am making a speaker stand/flexi amp standusing 5/8-11 allthread, and was wondering what to use for feet. All the feet I have seen use smaller thread sizes.


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Here's a couple examples. Peruse McMaster website. I searched 5/8-11 feet. There are many others up to pricey $46 each. Other industrial supply houses may also have. Like MSC Supply, I haven't checked.
I used all black oxide finished hardware on my Flexy. Most came from Zero.




The stands are actually solid wood stools made by Haussmann and sold all over the place online. They have different designs in quite a few different heights.I like those speaker stands!...and of course the flexi rack is pretty dang cool too
I made my first one in 1990...a coffee table, then a typical flexi style in 2010, and now a triple wide. For some reason I keep coming back to this type of rack.Well huh. I made myself one of these back in 1998. Had no idea it was an actual thing...