The Official Flexy Rack Thread
- Thread starter 4Play
- Start date
poorbastards
Active Member
Putting copper sleeves over the threaded posts does not make it NON flexible...it just means that if you want to change the configuration, you do so....you just need to get different length copper sleeves.
... and remove all your gear, disassemble the rack, reassemble the rack and then replace and reconnect the gear vs.just grab a crescent wrench and loosen/spin the nuts up and down to adjust the shelves. To each his own.
FisherNewb
New Member
If I drilled the holes to the same diameter of the all-thread rods, could I eliminate the nuts/washers from the top of each shelf, so there's just a support nut under each shelf? Would it be stable enough?
Asmodeus2112
Super Member
Not even close. Also, if you drill the holes the exact size it is very difficult to get the shelves to slide down. On mine I have to tighten the nuts on the top of the shelves to get it to be stable. Also without the second nut to lock it in place the other nut may not stay in place....
As posted above.
And drills wander and don't like to drill straight. I drilled a 1/8" oversize with a Forster bit. Next size I had. Used first shelf drilled as a drill jig for others. I had some major breakout on bottom on at least one hole.
I used a drywall T-square to get hole pattern dimensions and squareness close as I could.
Level on drill or second set of eyes to help with drill alignment?
Edit:
I have a drill press. But size and weight of boards weren't manageable for me. Boards for my double flexy are around 70# each.
Put a pencil mark or other somewhere on each shelf. To remind which way it sat when drilled. For easier hole alignment at assembly later.
BTW. There's other long threads on AK with members posting pics of thier audio stands and flexys.
Last edited:
Drill press?
Well I had no idea this thread existed when I posted my “flexi” - in fact I had no idea it had a name! Search is really missed.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/diy-salamander-audio-rack.1031342/
To answer above - 3/4” for 5/8” rod - drill on good side of plywood and clamp a piece of scrap wood under when drilling - this will give you a clean hole on your good side and minimize damage on bottom side. Drill press is almost impossible - I used a hand drill - a good carpenters drill bit will help you stay more or less square. Mark and drill out one shelf - then use it to mark the rest. I used 1.5” washers and stayed 2” from edge.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/diy-salamander-audio-rack.1031342/
To answer above - 3/4” for 5/8” rod - drill on good side of plywood and clamp a piece of scrap wood under when drilling - this will give you a clean hole on your good side and minimize damage on bottom side. Drill press is almost impossible - I used a hand drill - a good carpenters drill bit will help you stay more or less square. Mark and drill out one shelf - then use it to mark the rest. I used 1.5” washers and stayed 2” from edge.
I used a bench top drill press. I clamped my four shelves together, used a 3/4" forster bit, and drilled 6 holes, one in each corner and two centered on the long sides.
Easy-peasy.
Easy-peasy.
Thats a great idea as it also reduces damage on the backside of the wood. Did you have helpers (or a jig) holding the shelves level while you drilled?
No, but I wish I had. It was a little awkward, but do-able.
The shelves are 18" x 40" x 3/4" plywood.
FisherNewb
New Member
Do you guys think there would be any benefit to using lock washers on the underside of the shelves? I read a couple of comments in other threads about the need to periodically retighten the shelves.
I have 4 3/4" shelves with 6 3/4" all-thread rods.
My rack is about 8 years old.
I have never had a problem with things getting loose
My rack is about 8 years old.
I have never had a problem with things getting loose
