I did this with mother’s wheel polish as well. I used a 3” pad on my rotary polisher though. It’s not as easy as it sounds lolView attachment 3093469View attachment 3093470
View attachment 3093570
Before ^
I searched Utube vids on polishing edge of platter. Didn't think they knew anymore about it than I did.
I used generic clone Magic Eraser. With Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish on it.
Platter rotated by hand while 90°on edge. Used small strip of water/polish damped eraser. Lightly pressing with finger tips just on two solid areas. Tried not to put pressure on dots. They did get polished anyway. Washed edge under faucet stream often to make sure paint not damaged. Two hours later. Much better but not all oxidation gone.
Put on synthetic car wax after.
Just one way to do it.
Think my Project is finished:
Polished dustcover.
New fit over top faceplate.
Accessory multi piece counterweight.
Anti resonance tonearm cap, not used.
New Thrust plate and wax block.
New RCA cable
Little bit oil to old Grease to clean off on the fly VTA threads. And added new Grease to re-lube threads. That loosened up the ring.
Disassembled, cleaned and added 300k silicone fluid to cue. And added silicone to outside of stylus light to slow its pop up.
Hinges modified with 1/16" rubber gasket for faceplate to hinge clearance.
Platter polished.
View attachment 3093690
That’s an excellent option. Wish I had known that years ago. I wound up buying a new deckView attachment 3079614
View attachment 3079610View attachment 3079611View attachment 3079612
Just received this faceplate from UK. No connection to the Ebay seller, mkstands.
It fits over faceplate and fluid damper without any interference issues. I don't know if I will add thin felt or foam sheet in between the two faceplates.
First time I put cover on. The hinges bound up while closing. Wouldn't close. Took off and back on. And seems fine now. May be the cover half of hinges are a little higher now. And didn't settle all way down? With TT on rack, I can't get a good look at hinges.
Seller claims they heat after painting for durability. Finish looks pretty much flawless.
I could never match the finish quality, DIY. A little bow can be felt at a corner. I can see a 1/32" of the silver faceplate next to slider. You can see in Pic. The cavity is slightly too far to left. No big issue.
This faceplate was higher price than other sellers offerings without lettering. Most of cost difference was shipping to USA.
Posted for other Akers with damaged faceplate. An option.
View attachment 3079646View attachment 3079647
EDIT: With this fit over faceplate, I had issues with hinges interfering and binding with the faceplate. I ended uo adding a 1/16" rubber gasket material spacer behind lower hinge. Doing so, the internal loose threaded plate for screws falls away. TT bottom cover has to be removed to reattach bottom hinge. Spacer is red brown. But doesn't show from front.
View attachment 3092098View attachment 3092099View attachment 3092100
If I ever decide to change color this is a great optionAnyone have experience with accessory maker, MKStands in the UK?
Appears they make isolation feet. And faceplate (clamshell) that sets over top of original faceplate. without any TT disassembly.
The face plates are what I'm interested in. Thier site says to have patience. Deliveries in UK are behind. From what I see on Amazon and Ebay, they are only ones with silkscreen printing. Shows close ups of details and welded corners. Not the cheapest $.
Or faceplates from other after market makers.
Recently bought a 1200 MKII, that was in a bar for $100. Came with two Shure SC34C carts, I won't be using. . Some surface wear and smoke stain won't come off without removing paint.
Thanks.
Edit: I ordered one from MK Stands. Hope thier pictures reflect what they ship. Black color. It will have lettering. They say they heat after painting and lettering, for durability. Will see. I have no connection to them.
Thier Ebay page says they are backed up. Delivery promise date moved back after I ordered. Then now doesn't appear. It's the busy holiday season.
I may be putting thin sheet foam under this faceplate clamshell to reduce resonances.
View attachment 3059631
If I ever decide to change color this is a great option



Came out greatView attachment 3465483View attachment 3465484View attachment 3465485
Don't remember if I posted Pics here of the clamshell deck. I added 1/16" rubber shims behind hinge mounts. To clear the clamshell. That moves the dust cover slightly back. But still misses deck buttons at left.
Added thin foam sheet pieces under clamshell for damping any vibration.
Was only clamshell I saw that had painted lettering.
Glad to share some thoughts:I'd be interested in your review of the first test drive.



As I'm sure you're aware, VTA can be brought into range with the help of various thicknesses of platter mats. Between my 1200 Mk II's original thick Technics rubber mat and two different thicknesses of Herbie's mats, I can get any of my carts set correctly.Glad to share some thoughts:
In summary, this TT addition has been a real win. Not only a fun project @ a reasonable price, but a nice addition to my analog system (running 2x tables) & also improved system performance. Tough to say how much the sl1200 contributed, but I feel the better speed control contributed to the improved sound, and the ability to swap cartridges is a nice feature. It is also easier to use than the Rega. I am going to need to set the Rega up right to get a sound that warrants taking that place next to the sl1200!
- I mounted 3x old cartridges to get me going, using Technics overhang gauge. 1st time I had a ‘jig’ for alignment. Nice.
- I was surprised with 3x setups that I ended with the arm height all the way down for 3x cartridges; for two of them, I would have liked to go a little lower! feedback welcomed!
- My arm height adjustment sleeve works, but is not calibrated. All the way down is ~ -0.4 on scale (extrapolated)
- Table is level, I float the arm, set my TF, put the needle on the record & evaluate VTA with LASERS (insert Dr. Evil voice), and the arm is a little too high in back for 2x (1x AOK).
- View attachment 3473526
- I did not use the manual that lists arm setting vs cartridge height; I don’t know the heights. I might measure/research & compare vs manual to see if there is any correlation. I have another 6+ cartridges to go through, so I will see if the tread continues.
- The sl1200 is a solid chunk of metal & plastic. 2x heavier than Rega P3. My DIY isolation platform made a noise during install.
- Coming from the all-black P3, the black sl1200 looks a little flashy with the chrome/lights/strobe … a little blingy, but still classic/iconic. It looks serious.
- sl1200 has 4 nice feet that can be screwed in/out to level table = nice; rega has 3x stationary feet you need to shim to level.
- This TT sturdiness is reinforced through the initial LP playing process. I would jump start the Rega platter with my finger before turning it on; sl1200 does not need help. The Rega would visibly slow if you applied too much pressure with a carbon-fiber record brush; I am not sure the sl1200 even noticed. Maybe a quick burp, then back to quartz lock.
- Lightweight Rega uses lightweight Sota I-clamp; sl1200 = Hudson Big Ben record weight (374g). A little faster & less effort w/weight vs clamp = nice.
- The sl1200 arm feels like it has more dampened movement than the Rega RB300. Only 0.5g heavier effective mass, but the sl1200 arm feels heavier & ‘silky’.
- Arm cueing is significantly different, but I recognize this is adjustable & I am going to review. RB300 was slow; you could flick it & have time to ease back to preamp, wait, then turn up volume; sl1200 is fast. Functional, no stylus bounce, but faster than I would like. I find myself holding on to the lever and lowering it myself.
- Arm functions well. Old cartridges w/unknown history, but tracking is good. (I am running OEM max tracking force, maybe half as anti-skate. I used a test record, but did not get a lot of motivation to reduce these values.)
- sl1200 has a brake. Surprisingly nice feature. A little faster when changing records, but also when I was cleaning a record, if I could not pick up a bit - I’d hit the brake, stopped right in the strike zone, used air to remove, gone.
- The sound is good. No direct comparison with Rega (out for DIY service). Also, this analog initiative led me to a new SS phono MM/MC preamp, so I swapped out my tube phono MM preamp & have started reviewing some old cartridges. I immediately noticed it was quieter; floor noise had dropped. New SS phono section? DD vs belt TT? Later on, I tried a unique Fidelity Research FR-1 mk2 cartridge, and had some great sound. Best my system has sounded in a while. Heard some new things on known recordings.
View attachment 3473530View attachment 3473531
Glad to share some thoughts:
In summary, this TT addition has been a real win. Not only a fun project @ a reasonable price, but a nice addition to my analog system (running 2x tables) & also improved system performance. Tough to say how much the sl1200 contributed, but I feel the better speed control contributed to the improved sound, and the ability to swap cartridges is a nice feature. It is also easier to use than the Rega. I am going to need to set the Rega up right to get a sound that warrants taking that place next to the sl1200!
- I mounted 3x old cartridges to get me going, using Technics overhang gauge. 1st time I had a ‘jig’ for alignment. Nice.
- I was surprised with 3x setups that I ended with the arm height all the way down for 3x cartridges; for two of them, I would have liked to go a little lower! feedback welcomed!
- My arm height adjustment sleeve works, but is not calibrated. All the way down is ~ -0.4 on scale (extrapolated)
- Table is level, I float the arm, set my TF, put the needle on the record & evaluate VTA with LASERS (insert Dr. Evil voice), and the arm is a little too high in back for 2x (1x AOK).
- View attachment 3473526
- I did not use the manual that lists arm setting vs cartridge height; I don’t know the heights. I might measure/research & compare vs manual to see if there is any correlation. I have another 6+ cartridges to go through, so I will see if the tread continues.
- The sl1200 is a solid chunk of metal & plastic. 2x heavier than Rega P3. My DIY isolation platform made a noise during install.
- Coming from the all-black P3, the black sl1200 looks a little flashy with the chrome/lights/strobe … a little blingy, but still classic/iconic. It looks serious.
- sl1200 has 4 nice feet that can be screwed in/out to level table = nice; rega has 3x stationary feet you need to shim to level.
- This TT sturdiness is reinforced through the initial LP playing process. I would jump start the Rega platter with my finger before turning it on; sl1200 does not need help. The Rega would visibly slow if you applied too much pressure with a carbon-fiber record brush; I am not sure the sl1200 even noticed. Maybe a quick burp, then back to quartz lock.
- Lightweight Rega uses lightweight Sota I-clamp; sl1200 = Hudson Big Ben record weight (374g). A little faster & less effort w/weight vs clamp = nice.
- The sl1200 arm feels like it has more dampened movement than the Rega RB300. Only 0.5g heavier effective mass, but the sl1200 arm feels heavier & ‘silky’.
- Arm cueing is significantly different, but I recognize this is adjustable & I am going to review. RB300 was slow; you could flick it & have time to ease back to preamp, wait, then turn up volume; sl1200 is fast. Functional, no stylus bounce, but faster than I would like. I find myself holding on to the lever and lowering it myself.
- Arm functions well. Old cartridges w/unknown history, but tracking is good. (I am running OEM max tracking force, maybe half as anti-skate. I used a test record, but did not get a lot of motivation to reduce these values.)
- sl1200 has a brake. Surprisingly nice feature. A little faster when changing records, but also when I was cleaning a record, if I could not pick up a bit - I’d hit the brake, stopped right in the strike zone, used air to remove, gone.
- The sound is good. No direct comparison with Rega (out for DIY service). Also, this analog initiative led me to a new SS phono MM/MC preamp, so I swapped out my tube phono MM preamp & have started reviewing some old cartridges. I immediately noticed it was quieter; floor noise had dropped. New SS phono section? DD vs belt TT? Later on, I tried a unique Fidelity Research FR-1 mk2 cartridge, and had some great sound. Best my system has sounded in a while. Heard some new things on known recordings.
View attachment 3473530View attachment 3473531
did both and agree. i get grado hum and have looked at the external psu. any opinions?When you are ready you may want to consider adding the KAB bearing and arm dampener to the table. Both very worthwhile.
I use the KAB external psu. easy to install and well made. Maybe shoot him a message and see when he'll have them back in stock.did both and agree. i get grado hum and have looked at the external psu. any opinions?
I do not recall if the grado has a shielded body or not.did both and agree. i get grado hum and have looked at the external psu. any opinions?
If you talk to Kevin ask him about the hum with grado cart and see what he suggests.I use the KAB external psu. easy to install and well made. Maybe shoot him a message and see when he'll have them back in stock.
I'm in. Purchased new by me in 1990, here is my SL-1200MK2 black version with upgraded RCA's.
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