Morgan D
Super Member
I saw the FURS !!One of my favorites...
Ghost In You.
Off "Mirror Moves." Columbia Records. PC 39278. Sterling Records Sound pressing. 1984.
Run-out: G1 BL-39278-1E STERLING A4.
The Official *Technics SL-1200* Owners Club
- Thread starter quietcity
- Start date
That's my viewpoint, too. Besides, occasionally, it's nice to broaden one's horizons.
There's music out there that I simply don't understand why anyone would listen to. Having said that, I have every confidence that some folks wouldn't understand why anyone would listen to Gordon Lightfoot or James Taylor. Different strokes for different folks.
Do you keep your anti-skate set to zero like in the picture??????
NO !!! - that was just during setup of the new AT-VM740xML cartridge... with the stock Technics 3mm mat it likes 1.5g with VTF set at 2 grams. Since I now use an Oyaide BR-12 mat (sloped to help flatten warped records when used with a clamp) it needs 2.5 g with VTF at 2 grams.
For my 1200, I adjusted the anti-skating to 0.7 using the Tacet test record. This is the setting that had the best results.
Audio-Technica 33Sa MC cartridge with added counterweight. Resonance is 8Hz.
I see that your counterweight is also close to the pivot, which makes for a smooth running table. I'm getting 9hz resonance (horizontal and vertical) with the added weight on the end of the tonearm and the 8.8 gram VM740xML, this cart is superb for a MM. I can dial back the anti-skate to 1.5 and pass two test record tracks, it needs 2.0 to make it through the third, and 2.5 to get through the fourth one.
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This reduces the moment of inertia. A lower moment of inertia helps the tonearm by improving dynamic tracking. That's why going to a heavier counterbalance, closer to the pivot point, is desired over a lighter weight further from the pivot.
For the SME arm on my Sony, I chose the heavier 138-gm counterweight (the OEM stock is 107 grams) and the heavier Sony SH-135 headshell, paired with the Denon 103SA, to achieve a resonance of 8Hz.
DL-103SA on a solid Sony SH-135 headshell.
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Well I took the plunge on a SL-1500C - does that count? I almost, almost went for the SL-1200GR2 but it's so much more money and needs even more $ for a cartridge. The 1500 will be a great starter TT with ease of use, well-adjusted cartridge out of the box and a phono stage my home-made efforts can be tested against.
The 1500C is a great starter table... I bought one for my daughter (I upgraded the stylus to the Ortofon Blue instead of the standard Red) along with a Schiit Skoll phono amp- she loves the thing !
Although it's not cork, the Way Excellent II is a nice one. You may need to check and readjust the vertical tracking angle.
Rolls-Royce
Active Member
I have a Herbie's mat, sized for the 1200's platter, on the turntable now. Good stuff!
Broke out the camera and mics last night. 
All Day Music.
War's - "All Day Music." LAX Records. AW-2003. Trio-Kenwood pressing (Japan). 1978.
Run-out: J AW 2003 A Ⓢ 111 O -1 〄 Ⓑ
War's - "All Day Music." LAX Records. AW-2003. Trio-Kenwood pressing (Japan). 1978.
Run-out: J AW 2003 A Ⓢ 111 O -1 〄 Ⓑ
Eddy1025
Active Member
Well after a few months on my 1210gr2, I realized I could lock down the vta adjustment knob and get rid of a little wobble I noticed in the tonearm. Learn something new every day! Now I have to go back and listen to everything all over again and see if I hear a difference!
I put the 10 gram weight on the back of mt GR2s tonearm which then allowed me to get the counterweight up very close to the pivot point. Before I had done that the counterweight was almost all the way to the back of the arm and I could see a slight left to right weaving in the outer grooves on many LPs (must be why some put on the fluid filled tonearm damper) but now that tiny weave is gone gone gone.
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Eddy1025
Active Member
Interesting, I thought having the added counterweight off would reduce the effective mass, and be better. I am not sure how to describe it, but I didn't mean the tonearm itself had play, but rather the entire mechanism which allows you to change VTA. So this little lever here locks it down and gets rid of the play.
Yep- and it can be a beast to get tight, and even harder to loosen back up
Eddy1025
Active Member
I noticed that!
FatMaul
Active Member
Hi, I just became a member of the club. I bought a MK2 that was previously used as a rental unit with some small cosmetic scars in the top plate. I've disassembled it and given it a thorough cleaning and it seems pretty much all original. I've done a fair bit of research and understand the turntable well even having never touched one before. I'm changing the interconnects and the power cable which are the only "non-functional" things. I don't plan to mod it for internal ground but I feel like something needs to be done with the stylus lamp. It's kind of dim and I've seen other people with nice bright lamps and am wondering what you all think is the best option for that. Also this came with a super thick rubber slipmat, maybe 1/4". Was that how they came originally? Lastly, any tips on touching up the paint/powder coat on the top plate? It's not awful but there are some areas I'd like to address.