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The Official -Technics SL-1600/1700/1800- Owners Thread

Updated again with the new peeps in the original post header. There are some who have posted who haven't explicitly said they've got one of the tables or not. If you think your name should be on the masthead, but it isn't there yet (post #1), then I'm talking about you! Chime in and you'll get added on the next update. Until then, enjoy!

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I'm in....

SL-1600.JPG
SL-1600 with AT33EV

SL-1800.JPG
SL-1800 with DL-110

I also have an SL-1510 that was destroyed in shipping. I used to use it as my primary cleaning machine.
 
CygnusDen said:
Count me in! Proud owner of an SL-1700 MK2 here. An AK post from 2010 has a couple of photos and tells the story of how I was lucky enough to save it from going to the landfill.
Click to expand...

Hey Cygnus, I read your original post and you mentioned the "flimsy interconnects (dead left channel)". My 1700MK2 has had this problem twice so far, both times after adjusting the VTA to the max for the purposes of replacing the tone arm rest (unsuccessfully I might add). I think it's still in this state right now, but I haven't hooked it up in a few days, so I'm not sure.

Anyway, what did you do to fix the dead left channel problem?
 
alexpigment said:
Hey Cygnus, I read your original post and you mentioned the "flimsy interconnects (dead left channel)". My 1700MK2 has had this problem twice so far, both times after adjusting the VTA to the max for the purposes of replacing the tone arm rest (unsuccessfully I might add). I think it's still in this state right now, but I haven't hooked it up in a few days, so I'm not sure.

Anyway, what did you do to fix the dead left channel problem?
Click to expand...

I solved this problem by replacing the original interconnects with a shielded A/V cable (using the two audio leads only). This entailed removing the arm assembly, desoldering the old cables, and soldering the replacements to the arm's circuit board. Instructions and photos for doing this can be found somewhere on AK. The soldering work wasn't too bad, but it was a little tricky to fit the much thicker A/V cables through the available slots in the PCB and plinth. The improved sound quality made this worth doing even if the original cables had been working OK. If you want to keep the original cables, however, it sounds like you might only need to refresh the solder joints. Hope this helps.

Speaking of the VTA adjustment, the mechanism on my TT is frozen (fortunately at a height that works OK with my cartridges). I've read that this is usually due to hardening of the grease. I'd like to get it working again but am afraid to twist too hard on the dial and break something that currently works. Does anyone know of a way to fix this problem safely?
 
I have an SL 1610 as well as an SL 5210, which has a lot in common with the Mk II version. I also have an SL Q2, which has many similar qualities. Just word to Montycat who sent a picture of his table sitting on a block of something on top of what I assume is a receiver. Get it off! The receiver can't breathe and eliminate heat. People seem to do this a lot, even without the barrier. That way, the heat goes directly into the turntable and doesn't dissipate.
 
David,
I have a 1600 MK2, based on the high-mid compliance, do you have any recommended cartridges?

I'm also going to upgrade to the fluid dampener. Thanks.
 
An SL-1610 MKII came yesterday by way of the US Postal system.

Now I have one too many turntables. SL-1600 MKII, SL-1610 MKII, SL-1710 MKII, and SL-QL1.
Decisons, decisions. Which to say goodbye to?
 
jsisk said:
An SL-1610 MKII came yesterday by way of the US Postal system.

Now I have one too many turntables. SL-1600 MKII, SL-1610 MKII, SL-1710 MKII, and SL-QL1.
Decisons, decisions. Which to say goodbye to?
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If I still lived in Towson, I'd be knocking on your door!

Always willing to help with decisions like that. :)

John
 
Just realized that I never showed you mine. :)

John

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boreas said:
If I still lived in Towson, I'd be knocking on your door!

Always willing to help with decisions like that. :)

John
Click to expand...

I appreciate the offer.

I wasn't planning on buying another turntable, but an SL-1610 MKII showed up online with the typical symptoms of a broken tonearm belt, so I took the chance and threw in a lowball bid and ended up with it. I have a good supply of spare belts, so I popped one on and it works perfectly. The dustcover was also a cloudy mess. I am on my second round with Novus plastic polish kit and it looks like it will shine up nice when I finish.

Before and So Far Pics:

dust cover.jpg

dust cover 2.jpg
 
jsisk said:
I wasn't planning on buying another turntable, but an SL-1610 MKII showed up online with the typical symptoms of a broken tonearm belt, so I took the chance and threw in a lowball bid and ended up with it. I have a good supply of spare belts, so I popped one on and it works perfectly. The dustcover was also a cloudy mess. I am on my second round with Novus plastic polish kit and it looks like it will shine up nice when I finish.
Click to expand...

My 1600 was a similar situation, neglected but not damaged, with stickers all over the dustcover and (of course) a broken belt. The seller wanted to sell this non-working table to help fund the purchase of a working one. I got him going by swapping the SL for a freshly restored Yamaha belt drive and some cash.

John
 
The 1610 is going home tonight to replace my 1710 so I can bring it to work and perform surgery on the tonearm control board. The auto-return works, but the cue function doesn't. Checked the switch and it is fine. After going through the schematics and tracing the arm logic, there are only three components on the board that are exclusive to the cue function. Everything else is shared with the auto-return function, which works. So it should be an easy repair. Took a year of searching and waiting, but I scored a 1700 MKII tonearm control board on Ebay for $10 and now I have a pinch-hitter (SL-1610 MKII) so my system stays at 100% during the repair.
 
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