Thorens TD-150 Project

[Divotdog]

Shhh! Nobody knows that I just don't know how to put it back together.

 

[dean man jim]

That looks great ZB! I will spend some time with the TP-13, I don’t like to modify without spending some time with the table in original shape, I would think that this arm would need some work to get up to an RB300 level though.

The RB300 is a famously good arm but in some quarters the TP13A is actually considered at least equal to the RB300, on the TD150. The MkI TP13 is another matter, though, as apparently are the earliest TP13A examples. The crux of the matter I think is that the TP13A came with at least three iterations of arm bearings; the later ones are muy bueno. I don't know where the serial no's cut off, but if yours is above 120,000 or so you may likely have the best versions of the bearings. Mine is 126,XXX and it's a wonderful arm with a DL103, or a SS modified one, or any number of vintage MM "supercarts" I've used with it that aren't super high compliance.

Looking forward to seeing the continuation of your project!

Jim

 

[Divotdog]

Good information Jim, thank you, I will take a good look at the arm at some point and check the serial numbers and do some research, if it turns out that it is as good as a RB-300, I guess I will just have to up the TA budget , the ultimate goal of this table is to build a giant killer at some point.

 

[dean man jim]

Good information Jim, thank you, I will take a good look at the arm at some point and check the serial numbers and do some research, if it turns out that it is as good as a RB-300, I guess I will just have to up the TA budget , the ultimate goal of this table is to build a giant killer at some point.

You're welcome. The table's serial number is on a metallic tag, located on the top plate under the platter. Giant killer---well, tastes and preferences certainly differ among folks but I prefer my stock-plinth but tweaked/slightly modified (and well set up) TD150 to any number of new tables I've heard up to about $3K (w/ cart) and I got mine for free (image below)! A nice solid plinth for the TD might raise the bar even more. If you're curious and haven't seen it yet, over at the analog dept there is a fairly radical TD150 project nearing completion (cld plinth, springs substituted with hose, Jelco arm).

 

[Divotdog]

I’ve been watching that one very closely, the R7 plinth probably the one I will use on this table, the hose in place of the springs intrigues me also, this is something we will try on this table at some point, I am no engineer all I can do is try to implement wiser folks ideas. :yes:

 

[Divotdog]

Removal of motor and circuit

We will now remove the motor and motor circuit.

 

[Divotdog]

First off we need to remove the strain relief for the power cord.

 

[Divotdog]

Next we remove the power cord itself, it is pretty well marked what goes where here, it is also documented in the owners manual, however I marked it anyway.

 

[Divotdog]

Now we can remove the micro switch for power, there is a small metal plate behind it that the two screws thread into, be careful the screw on the right is plastic.

 

[Divotdog]

Here are a couple of shots of the micro switch assembly, I reassembled it once it was removed so I would not lose any of the small parts.

 

[Divotdog]

Now we will remove the power strip assembly, there are two screws on top of the top plate.

 

[Divotdog]

The easiest way to do this is to set the table on its side, and there are two nuts on the bottom, again be careful as there are two small washer also.

 

[Divotdog]

A couple of shots of the power strip assembly, as you can see I also reassembled this, if I don’t, I will lose the small parts absolutely guaranteed

 

[Divotdog]

Now we can remove the motor itself, there are three screws on the top plate, the one closest to the platter is the adjustment screw, it has a washer on top of the top plate and a spring underneath, break all three screws loose, remove the two mounting screws, the carefully remove the adjusting screw while holding a finger or two over the spring, as you get to the end of this screw be sure you support the motor so it won’t fall.

 

[Divotdog]

And here is the motor with the adjustment spring setting on it, when we reinstall this the spring goes directly opposite of the wiring.

 

[Divotdog]

Now we have to deliver the motor to Sparksaflyin for new caps (We have a rule here in Boise, Sparks isn’t allowed to touch the table saw, I am not allowed to solder, and Bsujeep is always the designated driver ). While he is doing that, I will clean, test and lube everything else and prepare the table for reassembly.

 

[mwr885]

We have a rule here in Boise, Sparks isn’t allowed to touch the table saw, I am not allowed to solder, and Bsujeep is always the designated driver

Sounds like a good deal! :thmbsp:

 

[bsujeep]

(We have a rule here in Boise, Sparks isn’t allowed to touch the table saw, I am not allowed to solder, and Bsujeep is always the designated driver ).

Hey wait a second, WHO came up with that rule? :scratch2:

 

[sparksaflyin]

That's a laugh, both of you are excellent solderers! Bring that board by & we'll replace those caps. BTW, excellent job on your efforts with this table, and creating a detailed thread; this is a great account for anyone doing work on this model table!

As far as table saws go, my motto is "cut twice and...." what else is it I'm supposed' to do?

 

[cableguy]

Great thread Mel!!!.....My friend you have been such a huge asset to the AK community, thanks man.