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Thorens TD-150 Project

Sam Cogley said:
That is the coolest tonearm ever. Great job with the resto!
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I've always thought so, too, Sam. Looks very Bauhaus. It's not bad performance-wise, either, though I can understand, if you're modding this thing to the hilt, why you might want to go in another direction.
 
Just another thank you Mel, without your Thorens project threads I'd never have had the guts to tear into my own 145 and start modding.

I'd also like to blame you for my new lust to find a TD-150. ;)
 
Divotdog said:
All I can say is Do It!
This table has been the most fun yet, I have already started to fab some of the modification parts, it is really going to get fun after awhile! :banana:
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It's been fun watching so far!:yes:
Regards,
Jim
 
Great job Divotdog. I suggest a Rega 250 as an option as far a new tonearm. My TD 150 has one and it makes great music. I currently am very happy with its performance. YMMV.
 
After I polished up the platter we now have an essentially new stock Thorens TD-150!

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Great thread! May I inquire into your platter-polishing process? I.e., what substances/tools you used... that platter looks great!
 
Divotdog said:
Nevr-dull and elbow grease! Mothers mag wheel polish works great also.
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Thanks! I haven't quite hit the sheen of yours above, but I'm confident I can! Ended up using Mother's.

Oh, yeah: any suggestions for plinth cleaning/polishing? That's my next step. Thanks!
 
I rubbed the wood down with some 0000 steel wool, then a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil, followed by a couple of coats of paste wax, if you don't have any big dents it should look like new. :thmbsp:
 
hey divotdog, any tips for cleaning the top plate? could i use the mothers polish that i used on the outer platter?
 
bigdirty said:
hey divotdog, any tips for cleaning the top plate? could i use the mothers polish that i used on the outer platter?
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I wouldn't, you're apt to take the lettering off, I just use a mild detergent and a terry cloth rag, if that doesn't do it try a little stronger detergent. If there is something really ugly stuck to it try some Goof-off or something similar, just try it in an inconspicuous spot first.
 
Divotdog,
A thought; might it be an idea, for the second phase,to just modifying the original component parts (for those on a limited budget) and then have a third phase for the no holds barred modification.
 
Divotdog,

First of all, let me say thanks for this amazing thread. I picked myself up a 150 mkII a month back and then located this forum. So far, this has been such a help in my learning on this classic unit. Now for my question... my headshell leads are very corroded and I have ordered replacements. You had mentioned that the back sides of them are soldered on(as is the case with mine). What did you do for a workaround on this? I am thinking that with a steady hand I can apply enough heat with my soldering iron to melt the solder and remove the bad cables. I was just curious if you had come up with a better solution. Thanks again for your hard work and detailed instructions.
 
Mel, tell the truth... you really have no idea of what you are doing!!

:P

You are a man after my own heart.
Scott
 
bschmitz said:
Divotdog,

First of all, let me say thanks for this amazing thread. I picked myself up a 150 mkII a month back and then located this forum. So far, this has been such a help in my learning on this classic unit. Now for my question... my headshell leads are very corroded and I have ordered replacements. You had mentioned that the back sides of them are soldered on(as is the case with mine). What did you do for a workaround on this? I am thinking that with a steady hand I can apply enough heat with my soldering iron to melt the solder and remove the bad cables. I was just curious if you had come up with a better solution. Thanks again for your hard work and detailed instructions.
Click to expand...

I'm not divitdog but I've replaced the original headshell leads in a few ways. One way is to simply de-solder the existing headshell leads, use a small flat file to remove the remaining solder from the pins (or use a de-soldering wick), and install leads of your choosing. Some quality litz wire leads are available for less than $20. I've also replaced them by making my own out of Cardas tonearm wire as well as with 4nine silver, putting decent connectors on the cartridge end and soldering the other end to the headshell pins. To solder new leads you need to take the headshell apart in my experience, not too much of a chore but be sure to keep track of the little bits. Any way you go be sure to take your time, and you'll be fine.

Edit--almost forgot that if the soldered end of your leads are still solid, you can remove corrosion from the connectors by using deoxit and you will hear improved sound. Sooner or later though after all of these years one or more of the original leads will break off...

Jim
 
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dean man jim said:
I'm not divitdog but I've replaced the original headshell leads in a few ways. One way is to simply de-solder the existing headshell leads, use a small flat file to remove the remaining solder from the pins (or use a de-soldering wick), and install leads of your choosing. Some quality litz wire leads are available for less than $20. I've also replaced them by making my own out of Cardas tonearm wire as well as with 4nine silver, putting decent connectors on the cartridge end and soldering the other end to the headshell pins. To solder new leads you need to take the headshell apart in my experience, not too much of a chore but be sure to keep track of the little bits. Any way you go be sure to take your time, and you'll be fine.

Edit--almost forgot that if the soldered end of your leads are still solid, you can remove corrosion from the connectors by using deoxit and you will hear improved sound. Sooner or later though after all of these years one or more of the original leads will break off...

Jim
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:thmbsp:

All I can add to this is, I didn't solder the new headshell leads on, I just cleaned the pins up and now I can slide new leads on the existing pins.
 
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