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Andre Garcia
“WITHOUT MUSIC, LIFE WOULD BE A MISTAKE”
No, sir.
The tonearm shuould be stay with no noticiable free play in any moving axis.
AG.
The tonearm shuould be stay with no noticiable free play in any moving axis.
AG.
the_nines
Lunatic Member
Andre Garcia
“WITHOUT MUSIC, LIFE WOULD BE A MISTAKE”
No necesarily. Check the scree that attach the tonearm to the body first.Thanks for the quick response. I thought it was odd that the tonearm would twist like that. I guess I need to replace the tonearm.
AG
bimasta
Addicted Member
It seems loose where the armtube joins the bearing assembly. That's where the screws will be — I'm pretty sure you can tighten them up and fix that wobble. However, the screws will be hard to get at; you'll have to be clever.
Andre Garcia
“WITHOUT MUSIC, LIFE WOULD BE A MISTAKE”
And thight then aligning the azimut close to zero.
AG.
AG.
Good luck with adjustment. It's not necessarily easy depending on the screw design. Usually it's 2 parts, one tiny slot inside another. The inner one is the one to try to tighten a little, and the outer locks it in place.
The bearing being a little loose is better than too tight as long as the arm doesn't wobble during play and the top of headshell is perfectly parallel to the record. That's the Azimuth as mentioned earlier.
The bearing being a little loose is better than too tight as long as the arm doesn't wobble during play and the top of headshell is perfectly parallel to the record. That's the Azimuth as mentioned earlier.
Andre Garcia
“WITHOUT MUSIC, LIFE WOULD BE A MISTAKE”
Yes, azimuth is aligning the stylus perpendicular to the platter.
Ag.
Your best bet is using a bit like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-1-Philips-Steel-Insert-Bit-4-Piece-B-34936/203696748
Just the bit in your fingers, no room for a screwdriver handle. I believe there are two screws on the underside of the arm near the pivot. You need a #00 or #0 Phillips.
I think this is right. I know others will correct me if not.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-1-Philips-Steel-Insert-Bit-4-Piece-B-34936/203696748
Just the bit in your fingers, no room for a screwdriver handle. I believe there are two screws on the underside of the arm near the pivot. You need a #00 or #0 Phillips.
I think this is right. I know others will correct me if not.
Neither does my Audiocraft, during play of course.
marcmorin
RIP 1953-2020
When did Joe Grado make a unipivot? there was a single pointed post for horizontal movement, vertical movement were the pins on either side
twiiii
Lunatic Member
Back in the 60's. I'll look for a photo. The knurled knot pushed on a spring imbedded in the tone arm to set the pressure. I modified mine with some SME parts to add anti skating. The issue with the tone arm was the carriage that the cartridge was mounted to was made out of nylon and the tension of the contacts that connected the carriage to the tone arm wires became intermittent and impossible to repair. So you had to extend the wires and connect them directly to the cartridge . After much frustration I moved on to an Shure SME 3009 MKI, then II and III. Finally gave up and went with the linear arm I have now. During the period I progressed from a TD-111 to a 121 to the TD 125 I have today. I never used a 124 because at the time the platter was made of steel and would not work with MC cartridges. I only played 33.33 records any way.
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marcmorin
RIP 1953-2020
Right, that is the arm Joe Grado made. At the back side of the aluminum pivot block is the vertical pivot screws (cups actually). the embedded leaf spring was to set the arm/cart resonate level/amplitude. Not trying to bust balls, it's just not a uni-pivot. The base model of that arm came without the damping mech, and without the lateral balance weight. That balance weight could be used as a de facto antiskate.
bimasta
Addicted Member
Hard to be sure from the video — the bearing assembly is the problem-area, and it is furthest from the camera and out-of-focus — but I don't see it as you do. To me the bearing does not look loose — it is the armtube which is loose where it joins the bearing.
Jeff449 sees it as I do: the two screws on the underside of the arm near the bearing are the problem.
By Jove, I think you are right. I didn't look at the video in full screen mode until now.
A tool that might get in there is one of these:
bimasta
Addicted Member
Those angled-ratchets are great — but still too big for this job; and the bits are usually too big for those very small screwheads.
As Jeff says (#13), finger-tighten with a very small bit — and I'll add, then torque that small bit with n-nose pliers.
And as everyone notes, be sure the azimuth is right.
As Jeff says (#13), finger-tighten with a very small bit — and I'll add, then torque that small bit with n-nose pliers.
And as everyone notes, be sure the azimuth is right.
