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TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

natger said:
Can the green board be the best standardboard? Yes. Do people mod the imperfections of the green board? I haven't read about it, those tiny smd parts could be too much trouble or limit what can be done, or they just say idle noise is too much for my 95dB speakers, damn shame I couldn't fix that:)
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What's the point of having the bargain-little-boards that act as the 'real' thing or perhaps just pretend to be big and compete with $$$$$ worthy huge 'brothers' if it's not in their 'littleness' and practicality, that everyone can afford and enjoy in HI-FI, or at least FINE music?!

Those who like to mod - they like and DO mode everything, from the signal cables to the $$$$ worthy devices. So what's the point of all these mods - is it the constant search for the ultimate musical/listening nirvana or just fun, or both?

Could be both, but that all costs money!
There is that cool guy out there who likes to mod (particularly the blue board), so he ended up to the totally different and exclusive board at the end, with all those 'exotic' parts like inductors - that 4 of those alone costs over $40USD here in EU!! (he still couldn't get rid of 'swith-off-thump' though!)
People talk about PSU - only the best (translation=over $200) will give enough and 'clean' power to these tinny little boards. Yes, fine OK - but what's the point at the end?!
Little by little everyone could come up with huge expenses, and time spent (or wasted) on $20 board to the price of the 'real' stuff - that needs nothing else but the place in the room.

I don't want or like to preach or teach anybody what to do or not to do. I simply will try to fix a little cool amplifier for the summer time, when my tube amplifiers and preamplifiers are on a 'vacation'. So far I've spent (accidentally) for two diff. boards $45, the PSU $15, not more than $30 for few other parts including some capacitors (that are here also for other devices/mods) just need some box more and that's it!
And while this work is in progress I still can hang on cute old little SMSL Tripath TA2020 that can run my 89db speakers flawlessly - yet unmodified! :smoke:
 
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cleonjr said:
this is my one board build , http://www.ebay.com/itm/TPA3116-Cla..._Parts_Components&hash=item1c3dbdb76d&afsrc=1 preamp http://www.ebay.com/itm/YJ-NE5532-H...mplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item233826c359 PS http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-120W-Not...hernet_Cables_RJ_45_8P8C_&hash=item5afea05b9b it will be pushing 3.5 ohm speakers but I think it can handle them for a while till I do My PBTL system.I have everything but the board will order it today or tommorow.
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What kind of speakers are these?
I count on these boards to run my 89db Mordaunts on 4-8 ohm - nothing more and nothing less :nono:
 
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Jadran said:
What kind of speakers are these?
I count on these boards to run my 89db Mordaunts on 4-8 ohm - nothing more and nothing less :nono:
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they are ADS L710's Parallel with Nova 8b's the ADS are 4 ohm and the Nova's are 8 ohm which theorecticly should be 6 ohm in parallel but actual reading is 3.5 ohm,which could be a little rough in 2 channel mode but when I do the PBTL it will be right at home since Impedance drops.
 
:) I believe switch off pop became more of a issue after doing a modification which was mainly done to improve the already good bass respons further? But solving that off pop probably isn't that hard :)

cleonjr: that tonecontrol preamp needs AC power input, do you have or ordered a transformer? I don't think that brick can power it?
 
natger said:
:) I believe switch off pop became more of a issue after doing a modification which was mainly done to improve the already good bass respons further? But solving that off pop probably isn't that hard :)

cleonjr: that tonecontrol preamp needs AC power input, do you have or ordered a transformer? I don't think that brick can power it?
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Yes I know ,I am curently trying to find the best solution I don't want to go the tranny route,But I have the Preamp in hand so I need to find a solution,I have thought about bateries also since the draw will be low.If I could find a source with 21-24v dc and12-15v ac,dont know but something will happen or I will just get a 1036 preamp it is DC (really dont want to)
 
Powering that pre ampboard with anything other then AC transformer probably is more work then converting the 2.1 3116 into double PBTL, just for comparison. Batteries won't work I am affraid, for 3116 ofcourse they will, but not for that pre you have. You also ordered a tube preamp to try? Maybe the transformer with that unit can be used?
 
natger said:
Powering that pre ampboard with anything other then AC transformer probably is more work then converting the 2.1 3116 into double PBTL, just for comparison. Batteries won't work I am affraid, for 3116 ofcourse they will, but not for that pre you have. You also ordered a tube preamp to try? Maybe the transformer with that unit can be used?
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the tranny is on the boardmaybe I can get one simular,is that a r-core type? they are not very much.your thoughts?
 
My first TPA3116 build

My TPA3116 board arrived a few days ago. Today I had a day off from work so I got some connectors and a project case at the local electronics shop and got busy!

Here are some pics. Unfortunately I left my multimeter at someone else's house and I only have my good speakers here, so I have not yet dared to connect it. I will probably testdrive it tomorrow and share my impressions.

ekmfDfC.jpg


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kLmtpbA.jpg


Quick question: Would 12V/6A be a good power for this board or will it perform better @19V?
 
I am using a 24v 5a supply for my red board. I think exceeding 5a or 25v for any of these 3116 boards is a no-no.

That's a really nice casing - can you give a parts citation on that? I was wanting to do a blue board build later this summer...

How are you going to control volume? Use a passive pre between source and amp?
 
phalanger said:
My TPA3116 board arrived a few days ago. Today I had a day off from work so I got some connectors and a project case at the local electronics shop and got busy!

Here are some pics. Unfortunately I left my multimeter at someone else's house and I only have my good speakers here, so I have not yet dared to connect it. I will probably test drive it tomorrow and share my impressions.

ekmfDfC.jpg

perform better @19V?
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Great job! :thmbsp:
Yes, how will you connect the source - via some preamp I suppose?!

Most people say that it works the best on 19V up to 21V
 
J English said:
I am using a 24v 5a supply for my red board. I think exceeding 5a or 25v for any of these 3116 boards is a no-no.

That's a really nice casing - can you give a parts citation on that? I was wanting to do a blue board build later this summer...

How are you going to control volume? Use a passive pre between source and amp?
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I think higher amperage just means it *can* supply more current if the device actually uses it, not that it forces it to 'run at' 6 ampere. Atleast that's according to my limited understanding of electricity, correct me if I'm wrong but I think amperage rating is a maximum, not what it actually uses.

For the casing, I used a 'EURO-BOX' model KGB21. It's 150x146x60 mm.

For volume and source selection I plan to use my preamp (marantz 1060) and maybe buy or build a small tube-preamp later, depending on how much I end up liking it. It's not passive but I don't think it has to be? What range does the 3116 accept for input level?
 
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