• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

Radfordman said:
lol!

But if a TPA beats my Radford STA25 III, I'll eat my hat.

Should be pretty safe, don't think I have a hat. Even if it doesn't, but beats my solid state amps, I'll be very happy.

What makes me a bit suspicious of the TPA, and other class D amps, if that differing components are needed for the various impedance speakers, for optimum results.
Click to expand...

That had me thinking a bit, too, since I have both 4 and 8 ohm speakers, but at the prices these go for it's not that big of a deal for me.
I have the 8ohm 3110 board now, and I'll see how that goes, and I'll likely pick up a 4ohm board later based on how this goes.
 
This great thread, together with another AK thread on the CNC phono preamp got me inspired.

I got a black/blue 3116, etched a CNC phono PCB and started a little project. It will have a passive pre (except for the phono stage), a 4-way selector switch, volume and balance.

It's a work in progress, so I don't think it will be done anytime soon. I don't even have a PSU for the amp yet, so I have not been able to listen to it to see if it's as good as you guys claim.

A few pics will probably explain the whole thing a lot better. First off, the front panel with the power button installed. The 9V battery is just to test the power button LED:
IMG_20140730_113824.jpg


Testing the layout. Still no PSU, parts for the phono pre are probably on a very slow boat from the far east:
IMG_20140730_114434.jpg


To round it up, here's the enclosure with the lid on:
IMG_20140730_114531.jpg
 
@Skrodahl,

That build looks great, very professional! What is the function of the board in front of the amp?
 
A few more construction pictures.

Back panel, drilled:
IMG_20140730_160451.jpg


RCA connectors mounted:
IMG_20140730_161242.jpg


Mistake, speaker terminal holes were too small:
IMG_20140730_161630.jpg


Completed back panel, outside:
IMG_20140730_162402.jpg


Completed back panel, inside:
IMG_20140730_162430.jpg


And done:
IMG_20140730_163607.jpg


IMG_20140730_163646.jpg
 
Jadran said:
Yes suspicion is fine but not too much in this case. These boards cost nothing comparing to 'hi-end' gear but could give a lot of surprises and pleasure, especially if one like to build his own little hi-fi device.
Those boards with inductors marked *220* (22uh) are better for 8ohm speakers; Audiobah's green (a bit costly $29) but is great and red YuanJing with potentiometer, prices up to $20, depending of the seller. There are other similar boards but I know these two. All others with inductors marked *100* (10uh) are better with 4 ohm spk. And that's about it. Other components are important but to mess around with those is DIY and modification route, or just 'river of no return'. In that case I would suggest finished - plug&play device. :)
Click to expand...

Thank you for clarifying regarding the inductors. I currently have the blue board, but with regard to 8 ohm speakers, it just does not have enough oomph to drive my Dynaco A25s - although it does a respectable job with my Boston A150's. I have ordered a green board with a beefier power supply in hopes that it might remedy the bass output and overall clarity. What was your turnaround time from Audiobah?
 
Poultrygeist said:
Anyone else in love with the 3116 + Astron regulated power supply?

Tell me what I'm hearing is not my imagination.
Click to expand...

Hey Now,

I haven't tried the Astron with my 3116, but have used it with my 3110 and am very impressed. Can't wait to try it with the 3116.

Just ordered a couple of the higher wattage Sure 3110s. :banana:

--
Finest kind,
Chris
 
Ray Riska said:
Thank you for clarifying regarding the inductors. I currently have the blue board, but with regard to 8 ohm speakers, it just does not have enough oomph to drive my Dynaco A25s - although it does a respectable job with my Boston A150's. I have ordered a green board with a beefier power supply in hopes that it might remedy the bass output and overall clarity. What was your turnaround time from Audiobah?
Click to expand...

Not at all.
Audiobah takes some time to process the order. It did actually drive me crazy last month as he (or she?) said it needs 14 days to prepare the item for shipment! That is in fact written under the shipping description on their eBay shop, but I didn't pay attention to be truth. When I complained they've sent it in about 12 days!? :D and 14 more days in the 'air' to Croatia. Anyway, it's worth waiting and worth every penny :yes:
 
After living with my TPA3116 red board for a few weeks, the sound did become a bit fatiguing to my ears. It's probably a combination of the amp and my 3" full range speakers and the source.

As an experiment I put my Bravo tube/hybrid headpone amp between my DAC and the amp with the volume set to equate a gain of about 1. I did this before but I found it a bit too dark.

This time I gave the tube unit a bit more time to settle down from not having been used for about a year and the sound cleared up wonderfully. It just took off the rough edges and gives the voices a bit more warmth.

I just pulled the trigger on an Indeed tube buffer.

I was initially looking into the Yaqin CD1 but chose the Indeed because I already have some 12AU7/ECC82 tubes to roll in it.

Adding such devices for the sake of changing the character a bit is controversial but having built the speakers and amp, for me it's just a way of being able to tweak the system to get it all into the sweet spot.

I also think my DAC (with passive I/V output stage) benefits from the high input impedance of the buffer.
 
My amp is playing!

No turn-on thump, using with Dynaco A25 and it has plenty of power. There is only one input wired for now, and the phono stage still misses its components.

It sounds nice, but it's certainly different from the Topping TP20 (TriPath TA2020) that I've been using for the last six months. I'll continue playing music on it, and see what I think.

Front panel drilling completed, input selector, balance and volume control in place:
IMG_20140801_114147.jpg


Power button and knobs mounted:
IMG_20140801_115007.jpg


Drilled mounting holes for the TPA3116:
IMG_20140801_121103.jpg


TPA3116 mounted:
IMG_20140801_121922.jpg


Enclosure assembled with the amp in it:
IMG_20140801_123030.jpg


Input cable, selector switch, balance, volume and loudspeaker outputs all connected:
IMG_20140801_134810.jpg
 
Last edited:
I've been waiting to get my 6N3 preamp before I tried out the TPA3110 but the pre is taking forever: the status has been "processed through sort facility" since the 25th. It's killin' me even though the seller was very clear that it would likely take a while.
I think this weekend I'll go ahead and try the 3110 out with a Kenwood Basic C2 and see what I think.
 
I love this thread, really makes me want to get out my foreplay (older stock version) and try and incorporate some version, which ever is best by the time I get to it, within the foreplay case, perhaps a DAC as a source as well, Freak people out when they see that little spider looking thing pump out the tunes.
 
Browsing the Yuan Jing site and wow, these things are cheap, and the TPA3116D Class-D 2.1 is a heck of a bargain, might even have a power supply that I can use right now.
 
I do have to get something figured out re a preamp control or switch or capacitor solution for the 3110 board. Fairly large speaker pop still on turn-on. Sounds really good with phono coming in from an Art DJ II Pre, but even with the gain down all the way, it pops on startup. Someone remind me, is there a way of putting a line capacitor in between the speaker outputs and the speakers to eliminate this? That would be the easiest, perhaps?
 
J English said:
I do have to get something figured out re a preamp control or switch or capacitor solution for the 3110 board. Fairly large speaker pop still on turn-on. Sounds really good with phono coming in from an Art DJ II Pre, but even with the gain down all the way, it pops on startup. Someone remind me, is there a way of putting a line capacitor in between the speaker outputs and the speakers to eliminate this? That would be the easiest, perhaps?
Click to expand...

Same issue here as well, but thumps also on power off :sigh: Although it does sound excellent, also well made, but those thumps are not good. I tried with 12V brick via DC extension cable with ON/OFF switch, and same 6N3 pre/buffer but no remedy. Will write to Sure and ask for a solution, their product manual says nothing about additional connections on pcb, and I found quite odd those markings - no left/right but CH1,2 and Out1,2, where 1 stands for Left and 2 for Right channel, and RCA's are both black. hmm not so user friendly IMHO

So far Audiobah's green is the Leader of the gang, to me! :yes:
 
Jadran said:
Same issue here as well, but thumps also on power off :sigh: Although it does sound excellent, also well made, but those thumps are not good. I tried with 12V brick via DC extension cable with ON/OFF switch, and same 6N3 pre/buffer but no remedy. Will write to Sure and ask for a solution, their product manual says nothing about additional connections on pcb, and I found quite odd those markings - no left/right but CH1,2 and Out1,2, where 1 stands for Left and 2 for Right channel, and RCA's are both black. hmm not so user friendly IMHO

So far Audiobah's green is the Leader of the gang, to me! :yes:
Click to expand...

On/off thump?? I am surprised? Sometimes I hear a very very faint "tic" at turn on, but not always, and nothing on turn off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom