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TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

Most times Sure has SD contact, a simple switch to gnd will solve it I guess. Audiobah has turn-off thump too.
 
natger said:
Most times Sure has SD contact, a simple switch to gnd will solve it I guess. Audiobah has turn-off thump too.
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Could you clarify this, not sure what you mean. The Sure website description says the board has pop suppression but if that's so, my board is defective.

Is the any way to use a cap inline to speakers to soften the power-on pop?

I like the sound of the 3110 but don't want to damage my speakers...so far just using cheap klh 330b speakers to test.

I thought the whole thing about the Audiobah board was no pop or thump?
 
Jadran said:
Same issue here as well, but thumps also on power off :sigh: Although it does sound excellent, also well made, but those thumps are not good. I tried with 12V brick via DC extension cable with ON/OFF switch, and same 6N3 pre/buffer but no remedy. Will write to Sure and ask for a solution, their product manual says nothing about additional connections on pcb, and I found quite odd those markings - no left/right but CH1,2 and Out1,2, where 1 stands for Left and 2 for Right channel, and RCA's are both black. hmm not so user friendly IMHO

So far Audiobah's green is the Leader of the gang, to me! :yes:
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Let me know if the Sure guys have any advice on this, Jadran. I may try replacing the pot on my passive pre that does not attenuate fully. A better pot solved this on my black board build - I used an alps blue velvet 50k log pot there. Will also try a lower power supply - a 12v/5a supply is on order.
 
Assuming this is the 3110 you are talking about, it is kind of weird, there is little circuit to prevent pop on power on. You see the SD/GND connector/pins/holes, if those are connected TPA switches off, unconnected it will startup.

Don't know if Sure did something connected to SD to prevent power off thump. If your source for the poweramp gives a thump the amp will also amplify that, outputcaps in dac/preamp etc could be causing thump, not amp itself??? Does system thump when no source is connected to this Sure???

LsKRqOul.jpg
 
skrodahl said:
This great thread, together with another AK thread on the CNC phono preamp got me inspired.

I got a black/blue 3116, etched a CNC phono PCB and started a little project. It will have a passive pre (except for the phono stage), a 4-way selector switch, volume and balance.

To round it up, here's the enclosure with the lid on:
IMG_20140730_114531.jpg
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Looking very nice and along the lines of what I am looking to achieve, wanting to get it as small as possible, but have a couple more boards to position internally ..... a couple of ?'s if I may

Is the switch a 12mm or 16mm ?

Is the case a 2205 (220mm * 191mm * 52mm) ?

Thank you
 
J English said:
I thought the whole thing about the Audiobah board was no pop or thump?
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Not only that Audiobah's board is pop/thumps FREE but it does sound the best, or better than YJ black or red! Those two need hell of mods (black esp.) to come to the quality of sound reproductions of A. green - untouched! That is also approved by others, but that's what I have learned so far as well. I have replaced two crucial type of parts on YJ black and it's still not in the league of the little A. green, although it's also pop/thump free, and cooler now!

J English said:
Let me know if the Sure guys have any advice on this, Jadran. I may try replacing the pot on my passive pre that does not attenuate fully. A better pot solved this on my black board build - I used an alps blue velvet 50k log pot there. Will also try a lower power supply - a 12v/5a supply is on order.
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Yes, certainly I will :thmbsp: but will not expect the answer before next Monday?

What I have tried now is connecting the 3110 directly to the source - H/K DAC, that receives signal from the PC/Jet audio soft., so no volume pot between or any preamp., and as image shows volume is controlled by the software and level is at min. Sound is great, and now the thump appears at switching off the board, even with vol. level all way down. Could be that switch on the cord, but have no time neither patience to mess around with it and also need additional parts/connectors to solder on the board for other types of PSU and diff. switches.
Will see what (and if) SURE has to recommend.
 
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Downunder55 said:
Looking very nice and along the lines of what I am looking to achieve, wanting to get it as small as possible, but have a couple more boards to position internally ..... a couple of ?'s if I may

Is the switch a 12mm or 16mm ?

Is the case a 2205 (220mm * 191mm * 52mm) ?

Thank you
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The case is a 2207 and the switch is 16mm. That extra height makes it easier to work with, imo.

If I were to do it all over again, I would have chosen a 320mm width enclosure. It gets fairly cramped with PSU and two PCB boards.
 
natger;8012792[B said:
]Audiobah green has thump when power goes off[/B] and outputfilter is designed for ~6.5 ohm speakers.
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No it hasn't! If that is the case by you, than is isolated.
 
Jadran said:
Not only that Audiobah's board is pop/thumps FREE but it does sound the best, or better than YJ black or red! Those two need hell of mods (black esp.) to come to the quality of sound reproductions of A. green - untouched! That is also approved by others, but that's what I have learned so far as well. I have replaced two crucial type of parts on YJ black and it's still not in the league of the little A. green, although it's also pop/thump free, and cooler now!


Yes, certainly I will :thmbsp: but will not expect the answer before next Monday?

What I have tried now is connecting the 3110 directly to the source - H/K DAC, that receives signal from the PC/Jet audio soft., so no volume pot between or any preamp., and as image shows volume is controlled by the software and level is at min. Sound is great, and now the thump appears at switching off the board, even with vol. level all way down. Could be that switch on the cord, but have no time neither patience to mess around with it and also need additional parts/connectors to solder on the board for other types of PSU and diff. switches.
Will see what (and if) SURE has to recommend.
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I tried to simulate your experience by taking my 3 tube 6N3 preamp out of the system, and doing as you did. The amp connected to the source- Schiit Modi USB dac; signal from PC/Pandora software. No volume pot, software volume.

I left the volume at listening levels instead of turning it down when turning on my Astron PS which is not instantaneous as cap(s) charge for a second or 2. No noise at all, just loud music. I tried the same with turn-off. Again, the charged caps keep it running a few seconds, but no noise what so ever?

I thought maybe the delayed on/off of the Astron PS was helping hide the thump you hear, so I tried my Indeed 12V PS brick switched by a multi-outlet 120v box. Same results...silent. Soo...I tried my 24V brick which I plugged directly into the wall receptacle, again nothing heard. I am driving X-LS Encore 8 ohm speakers. The very tiny tic I have occasionally heard in the past on turn-on only, I attribute to the Pre-amp, as it is completely gone without it in the system.

I feel bad you guys are having issues with a board I recommended. I still feel it's the best board I have tried yet, and it betters the TPA 3116 YJ Blue/black board that has not been heavily modded. The Astron PS really improves it more, as does the 3 tube pre-amp, but it still sounds great with just the software controlling volume.
 
lacro said:
I tried to simulate your experience by taking my 3 tube 6N3 preamp out of the system, and doing as you did. The amp connected to the source- Schiit Modi USB dac; signal from PC/Pandora software. No volume pot, software volume.

I left the volume at listening levels instead of turning it down when turning on my Astron PS which is not instantaneous as cap(s) charge for a second or 2. No noise at all, just loud music. I tried the same with turn-off. Again, the charged caps keep it running a few seconds, but no noise what so ever?

I thought maybe the delayed on/off of the Astron PS was helping hide the thump you hear, so I tried my Indeed 12V PS brick switched by a multi-outlet 120v box. Same results...silent. Soo...I tried my 24V brick which I plugged directly into the wall receptacle, again nothing heard. I am driving X-LS Encore 8 ohm speakers. The very tiny tic I have occasionally heard in the past on turn-on only, I attribute to the Pre-amp, as it is completely gone without it in the system.

I feel bad you guys are having issues with a board I recommended. I still feel it's the best board I have tried yet, and it betters the TPA 3116 YJ Blue/black board that has not been heavily modded. The Astron PS really improves it more, as does the 3 tube pre-amp, but it still sounds great with just the software controlling volume.
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Thanks for more insights and your experiences, and please - there's no need to feel bad :thmbsp: It's fun to try different boards, and while they are bargain nothing much too loose but quite opposite, its hobby after all. For the total price of $14.95 that I've paid for Sure I will pass the next pizza order :D
Yes, I think that proper and better PSU is one of the key here. Also must admit that pop/thump at power off now is not loud and unpleasant (on my Mordaunt's 89db on 8 ohm) like those with unmodified YJ black in the beginning, that was really horrifying! Sure 3110 as such is much better, in all aspects!
 
I tried it this morning with no source connected...no pop. The connected the pre, and...pop. So for me, the pop is definitely coming from source connection rather than board to speaker. Will try a source where I can go to digital 0 next just to see. Don't feel bad, just experimentation, a good passive pre should be able to take care of it. This may be the kick I need to get into that pre and see why that pot doesn't attenuate fully.
 
Ok Sure took care of that, audiobah didn't. Now if you leave pre powered on and power off the Sure it does pop?
 
jhoyt said:
Has anybody received their Sure 3116 amp yet?
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I got mine yesterday and have been listening to it a lot today. It sounds great, one interesting fact: the large "hockey puck" heat sink does get warm, even when no signal is being passed through it.
 
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