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Troubleshooting CD Players

BrankoZ said:
Yes indeed, but SM manual must be appropriate for particular model.

No voltage selector . Fixed 220V
View attachment 3588542
I am deciding between two possibilities:
1 APC Line-R 1200
2 Voltage regulators based on LM7810 and LM7910

First is universal, more expensive but keeps player unchanged.
Second needs some soldering and packaging effort but changes player.
Click to expand...

Sony CDP voltage conversion

I saw here https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/voltage-clarification-220-volt-into-a-240-volt-supply.228501/ that I should check any 220V equipment has been changed to 240V. Any idea how I do this on my Sony CDP338ESD? If you know, do you have pictures...:D Thanks
pinkfishmedia.net
 
j!m said:
You think it'd draw that much?

As to the unit- maybe there is a way inside to alter the transformer taps used to simulate the switch for changing voltage in. Some use completely different transformers for the multiple tap option and others use one across the board and select the taps they need for a specific market.
Click to expand...
You might want to learn how Zener diodes work. They draw negligible current below the Zener threshold and above that they draw unlimited amount, trying to get the voltage to the threshold. So, if you have no resistor, they go bang.
 
So I see 3 alternatives now:
1 APC Line-R 1200
(Easiest, I can find second hand cheap-20$, hoping it can step down from 244V to 220V. Clumsy. More hardware added- low WAF.)
2 Voltage regulators based on LM7810 and LM7910
(Not so expensive. Couple of bucks. A little bit challenging to solder on some raster board two regulators, with heatsinks and couple of capacitors. Than mount it inside CD. Question is would 3-4V above desired 10V be enough for LT7810/7910 to work. Oscillating input voltage may cause LT to stop regulating )
3 Voltage conversion described in pfm
( Cheapest. Somehow tricky to rewrap. I am in doubt does it works, does my transformer has 240V tap)
IMG_20250905_001916.jpg
 
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BrankoZ said:
3 Voltage conversion described in pfm
( Cheapest. Somehow tricky to rewrap. I am in doubt does it works, does my transformer has 240V tap)
Click to expand...
Easy enough to verify and see if you have 240V. You also wouldn't need to do a perfect rewrap, unless OCD about it. I've accomplished imperfect wraps, followed by some solder to hold it all in place.
 
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BrankoZ said:
So I see 3 alternatives now:
1 APC Line-R 1200
(Easiest, I can find second hand cheap-20$, hoping it can step down from 244V to 220V. Clumsy. More hardware added- low WAF.)
2 Voltage regulators based on LM7810 and LM7910
(Not so expensive. Couple of bucks. A little bit challenging to solder on some raster board two regulators, with heatsinks and couple of capacitors. Than mount it inside CD. Question is would 3-4V above desired 10V be enough for LT7810/7910 to work. Oscillating input voltage may cause LT to stop regulating )
3 Voltage conversion described in pfm
( Cheapest. Somehow tricky to rewrap. I am in doubt does it works, does my transformer has 240V tap)
View attachment 3588939
Click to expand...
Refresh my memory; what player is this? I'll look at the service manual and see if they made a 240V model or a multi voltage model that works with 240V.
 
From what I gathered, the following versions G-AEP and UK models can be configured for either 220v or 240v. If you have the AEP model, it's for 220v only. The E model is the one which comes with a voltage selector switch (120v/220v/240v). Of course it's obvious yours isn't the E model.
 
BrankoZ said:
I posted a picture of back side of CD player several posts ago.
No voltage selector. Onlly 220V
Click to expand...
Couldn't you just have given me the model number so I didn't have to go look through all your posts? Sheesh.
You don't have a voltage selector, but unless you have the US/Canada model it looks like the other models are configureable for 240V.
1757179478672.png1757179478672.png
 
If I'm following the arrows and reading this schematic correctly, the US, Canada models have an orange wire, where the AE, UK models have a red wire. Check this against your player.

Sony CDP-338ESD schematic hilight.jpg
 
dr*audio said:
The schematic shows a 220V winding and a 240V winding on the AEP/UK model. I think it's a matter of swapping 2 wires.
Click to expand...
True. According to the guys at PFM, the two wires are the violet and red wires which need their positions swapped. Check the photo on post #1,485 for the violet and red wires.
 
dr*audio said:
Couldn't you just have given me the model number so I didn't have to go look through all your posts? Sheesh.
You don't have a voltage selector, but unless you have the US/Canada model it looks like the other models are configureable for 240V.
Click to expand...
I am not at home during weekend and do not know where to look for model number.
Here are pictures of front, back and trafo (there are RED and Violet vires)
Where is model number?
20250906_235318.jpgIMG_20250904_204557.jpg
IMG_20250905_001916.jpg
 
The model number is in the rear shot, inside the rectangle which is between the "Class 1 Laser Product" label and the power cord. It's also in the front shot, in large orange lettering under the CD drawer.
 
Red wire rewrapped to third position. Violet wire hangs isolated .
Voltage for ICs now +10.7V and -10 V (Input voltage 244V AC)
I am monitoring now would malfunction will appear again.


PS After 40 minutes of normal work malfunction appears again.:yikes:
What else can be wrong. Heatsink is not hot as before.
 
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A cool heatsink is a good thing, something may have been damaged by the overvolt condition earlier.

But at least you can now chase it down without it being overvolted in the future.
 
eiraved said:
Any reason why you left the violet wire isolated? It should be connected to where the red wire formerly was.
Click to expand...
Not particular reason just
1 I wanted to try if RED wire on Violet position will work. as fast as possible.
2 Rod for Violet could be not connected and I had no time for investigate
 
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