dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
There is a switch you can see through a rectangular window in the metal, just to the right of the disc table. That's the home switch. Those micro switches go bad all the time. It looks like the actuator broke off.
Troubleshooting CD Players
- Thread starter dr*audio
- Start date
You are spot on. I did take that pcb out and tried activating while in operation. No use but the switch might be gone anyway. Now trying to find the same part is a nightmare. If I get to know which Teac transport this one that Krell used, I will hunt for a donor unit. Thanks again Dr.Audio.
2martinis
Active Member
Help! I own a Yamaha CD-S300. A few weeks ago, it stopped playing before the end of a CD. I ejected the CD, re-inserted it, and it played for 30 seconds or so and quit. Repeat several times. Walked away. Tried again the next day. The disc drawer operates, but the display says NO DISC. The drawer seemed to hesitate before opening or closing.
Read most of this thread. Following the t'shooting tips in the first few posts, things looked OK, but I never saw visible light from the laser. Local shop didn't want to work on it, as they said they couldn't get parts.
Called Yamaha, had a helpful fella on the phone. The whole transport, including the sled and laser was available for $56. I figured it was worth a gamble.
The new transport operates snappier. But I'm still getting NO DISC on the display and no visible laser. The disc raises into position and spins. The sled seems to check position and return to home as it should. The laser goes up and down. But still no visible laser and NO DISC on the display.
I'm stumped and in a bit over my head. Suggestions? New player time?
Thanks!
Read most of this thread. Following the t'shooting tips in the first few posts, things looked OK, but I never saw visible light from the laser. Local shop didn't want to work on it, as they said they couldn't get parts.
Called Yamaha, had a helpful fella on the phone. The whole transport, including the sled and laser was available for $56. I figured it was worth a gamble.
The new transport operates snappier. But I'm still getting NO DISC on the display and no visible laser. The disc raises into position and spins. The sled seems to check position and return to home as it should. The laser goes up and down. But still no visible laser and NO DISC on the display.
I'm stumped and in a bit over my head. Suggestions? New player time?
Thanks!
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
There is probably a solder blob on the laser PCB that is there to protect against static discharge. You must remove it. Use de-soldering braid.
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
I would take a good photo of the switch using a real camera in Macro mode and plug it into Google Search. Teac didn't make that switch, some other company did. I couldn't find anything at Digikey.
2martinis
Active Member
Help! I own a Yamaha CD-S300. A few weeks ago, it stopped playing before the end of a CD. I ejected the CD, re-inserted it, and it played for 30 seconds or so and quit. Repeat several times. Walked away. Tried again the next day. The disc drawer operates, but the display says NO DISC. The drawer seemed to hesitate before opening or closing.
Read most of this thread. Following the t'shooting tips in the first few posts, things looked OK, but I never saw visible light from the laser. Local shop didn't want to work on it, as they said they couldn't get parts.
Called Yamaha, had a helpful fella on the phone. The whole transport, including the sled and laser was available for $56. I figured it was worth a gamble.
The new transport operates snappier. But I'm still getting NO DISC on the display and no visible laser. The disc raises into position and spins. The sled seems to check position and return to home as it should. The laser goes up and down. But still no visible laser and NO DISC on the display.
I'm stumped and in a bit over my head. Suggestions? New player time?
Thanks!
Read most of this thread. Following the t'shooting tips in the first few posts, things looked OK, but I never saw visible light from the laser. Local shop didn't want to work on it, as they said they couldn't get parts.
Called Yamaha, had a helpful fella on the phone. The whole transport, including the sled and laser was available for $56. I figured it was worth a gamble.
The new transport operates snappier. But I'm still getting NO DISC on the display and no visible laser. The disc raises into position and spins. The sled seems to check position and return to home as it should. The laser goes up and down. But still no visible laser and NO DISC on the display.
I'm stumped and in a bit over my head. Suggestions? New player time?
Thanks!
2martinis
Active Member
Thanks for the reply, doc. And, sorry about the double post. I don't know how that happened.
The player worked fine for nine years. Knowing that, is the solder blob still a possibility?
Is the laser pcb part of the transport assembly? Or plugged into the chassis?
Thank you. I have scanned lot of google images for teac transports and no luck. I even tried taking the switch out and shorting it to activate it but again nothing happens. Will do some more digging but as you rightly pointed out its sure something to do with home position switch.
BrankoZ
Active Member
Just to inform that I changed both ICs and install new bigger heatsink. ( Over original copper Sony heatsink.)
Unfortunately , no results. behavior is as before, After 40-45 minutes start malfunctioning. Heat sink is so hot I can not hold it for more of 2 seconds.
I doubt that some other is reason why IC overheats so much ( not bad IC)
Attachments
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
There may be some problem in the unit where a component is drawing too much current.
Check the voltage on the input and output of the regulator, If this was on my bench I would measure the current from the output of the regulator as well. You might have to cut a trace and solder in a 1 Ohm resistor and measure the voltage drop across the resistor, which will be equal to the current. But if the output voltage of the regulator is below the rated regulation voltage, you know something is drawing too much current.
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
Get a voltage converter.
BrankoZ
Active Member
Yes indeed, but SM manual must be appropriate for particular model.
No voltage selector . Fixed 220V
I am deciding between two possibilities:
1 APC Line-R 1200
2 Voltage regulators based on LM7810 and LM7910
First is universal, more expensive but keeps player unchanged.
Second needs some soldering and packaging effort but changes player.
j!m
Super Member
You think it'd draw that much?
As to the unit- maybe there is a way inside to alter the transformer taps used to simulate the switch for changing voltage in. Some use completely different transformers for the multiple tap option and others use one across the board and select the taps they need for a specific market.
As to the unit- maybe there is a way inside to alter the transformer taps used to simulate the switch for changing voltage in. Some use completely different transformers for the multiple tap option and others use one across the board and select the taps they need for a specific market.